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So Car is EXTREMELY hard to get to go into first to the point where I have to try for like 30 seconds sometimes. I end up grinding or having to force it. Once I am moving it goes into the other gears okay but still is difficult and sometimes grinds. Even when car is in gear and clutch pedal is pushed all the way in, it will try and move forward or if you are on the brake it will try and stall. Also hard to take out of gear sometimes.
The clutch and slave cylinder are new. Anybody have any clue what mght be wrong? I have hears=d that maybe the line just needs to be adjusted and this is pretty simple? Any opinions or help is much appreciated cuz it is really really starting to piss me off. Thanks.
Oh, car is a 1990 5 speed with ACT clutch, shorshifter, Old Celica GTS trans if that means anything(don't think it should)
So Car is EXTREMELY hard to get to go into first to the point where I have to try for like 30 seconds sometimes. I end up grinding or having to force it. Once I am moving it goes into the other gears okay but still is difficult and sometimes grinds. Even when car is in gear and clutch pedal is pushed all the way in, it will try and move forward or if you are on the brake it will try and stall. Also hard to take out of gear sometimes.
The clutch and slave cylinder are new. Anybody have any clue what mght be wrong? I have hears=d that maybe the line just needs to be adjusted and this is pretty simple? Any opinions or help is much appreciated cuz it is really really starting to piss me off. Thanks.
Oh, car is a 1990 5 speed with ACT clutch, shorshifter, Old Celica GTS trans if that means anything(don't think it should)
1. Check shift lever & control cable connections.
2. Make sure slave cylinder is bled.
Did you allow enough time of regular driving to allow the clutch to break-in?
bleed it by pushing down, cracking the bleeder on the slave, close the bleeder then let the pedal up
get a mirror and a flashliteset the mirror on the motor so you can see the arm on the trans through the windshield and shine a lite on it, now push the pedal, does the arm move pretty much in sync with the pedal?, it might be a slight tad late in starting off but once it moves and you should feel the pedal load not even an inch from the top and the arm should move
i had this problem b4 on my '93 rolla. check to make sure that u have fluid in the slave. if there is no fluid u are leaking it somewhere. probably around $150 for the slave cylinder.
First, bleed the system again thoroughly. It takes a lot of bleeding to get the fluid to start flowing and then get all the air out of the clutch line after replacing any clutch hydraulic component.
You didn't mention anything about replacing the clutch master cylinder. They usually go around the same time as the slave. Usually, whatever contaminated the slave (dirt, moisture, old age, etc.) also contaminates the master. One quick test of the clutch master is to pump the clutch pedal rapidly a few times and then try to shift in to first with the clutch pedal depressed. If you can now shift in to first easily, the clutch master is defective. It is leaking internally past it's seals. The clutch master can also leak externally, but you don't see the fluid in the engine compartment. It leaks down on the passenger side of the fire wall, under the dash by the pedals. Sometimes you have to peel the carpet back to see the fluid there. If either of these are the case, replace the clutch master and then rebleed thoroughly.
First, bleed the system again thoroughly. It takes a lot of bleeding to get the fluid to start flowing and then get all the air out of the clutch line after replacing any clutch hydraulic component.
You didn't mention anything about replacing the clutch master cylinder. They usually go around the same time as the slave. Usually, whatever contaminated the slave (dirt, moisture, old age, etc.) also contaminates the master. One quick test of the clutch master is to pump the clutch pedal rapidly a few times and then try to shift in to first with the clutch pedal depressed. If you can now shift in to first easily, the clutch master is defective. It is leaking internally past it's seals. The clutch master can also leak externally, but you don't see the fluid in the engine compartment. It leaks down on the passenger side of the fire wall, under the dash by the pedals. Sometimes you have to peel the carpet back to see the fluid there. If either of these are the case, replace the clutch master and then rebleed thoroughly.
Mike
Everything was replaced oh maybe 4000 miles ago because the car used to be an automatic. It is now a 5 speed. The Clutch master cylinder was used and the slave cylinder new.
The clutch master can also leak externally, but you don't see the fluid in the engine compartment. It leaks down on the passenger side of the fire wall, under the dash by the pedals. Sometimes you have to peel the carpet back to see the fluid there. If either of these are the case, replace the clutch master and then rebleed thoroughly.
Mike
funny thats exactly how i determined my 'rolla needed a new slave. it was leaking inside the passenger compartment right onto my deadpedal. at first i thought the pedal was wet b/c it was raining but a few days later i looked down and had a few drops of fluid on my shoe
I think you mean clutch "master cylinder", not clutch "slave cylinder".
Talisman,
I would definitely suspect the clutch master, since it was used when installed. Sitting without fluid can really dry out the seals. Try the quick pumping of the pedal as I described above.
im going to say you might need a longer slave cylinder pushrod. a lot of times with aftermarket performance clutches, they are harder to disengage so you need more travel in the slave cylinder into the shift fork. so people put longer pushrods into the slave cylinder. i made mine from a drill bit. just make it like 1 inch longer, maybe 3/4 of an inch. the drillbit will work fine, i ground mine down and put the ring around it too for the rubber sleeve. if you dont want to make one, speedsource sells them. http://www.speed-source.net/
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pedal load not even an inch from the top and the arm should move
Linear Mode
