3S-FE Puller Bolts

[drugal]

Does anyone know what size of bolts I need for a puller when removing the crankshaft pulley? Nothing I have fits, and they're pretty small.

[500KCamry]

I think the longer timing cover bolts fit the threaded holes on the flywheel, take them to a metric nut/bolt supplier and get longer versions, or get a cheap steering wheel puller and grind the ends down so it fits into the flyweel recess then use the timing cover bolts plus washers to secure the puller to the flywheel.

[88 LE]

^ He's not asking about the flywheel.

I believe you need 6mm or 8mm bolts (I forget). I'm not sure about the thread pitch.

[drugal]

The bolt size from the timing cover worked perfectly, and I got the pulley off. Some of the belt guide on the p/s part of the pulley is broken off/cracked in places from someone using a jaw-puller previously, but the belt looks ok.

Picture of broken pulley

Could this throw the pulley balance off enough to cause problems?

Now I just need to get the oil pan off without the engine falling out.

[88 LE]

Originally Posted by drugal

Some of the belt guide on the p/s part of the pulley is broken off/cracked in places from someone using a jaw-puller previously, but the belt looks ok.

Could this throw the pulley balance off enough to cause problems?

It could cause problems. The pulley is not balanced anymore with a chunk missing from it.

A missing chunk out of a pulley is definitely not good.

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by 88 LE

It could cause problems. The pulley is not balanced anymore with a chunk missing from it.

A missing chunk out of a pulley is definitely not good.

Yeah, get a used one from a wrecker.

Why are you taking the oil pan off??

[fredk]

the motor isnt going to go anywhere, its got 4 mounts, 2 twist mounts on the crossmember and 2 hanger mounts, one on the trans and one above the crank pulley. It might be a good idea to check the hanger mounts for missing bolts before you take the crossmember out

[drugal]

My car has started leaking so much oil it's undriveable. It'll run dry before I get anywhere, and idling for even 10 seconds anywhere makes a huge mess. So, I'm removing the oil pump to replace all the gaskets. Apparantly you have to remove the oil pan as well when you do that to get the oil inlet thing off. And, might as well do the water pump, timing belt, idlers, etc...

I've still got the original 3S-FE from my previous Camry sitting in my garage, so I can try to get the pulley from that. Thanks for the help!

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by drugal

My car has started leaking so much oil it's undriveable. It'll run dry before I get anywhere, and idling for even 10 seconds anywhere makes a huge mess. So, I'm removing the oil pump to replace all the gaskets. Apparantly you have to remove the oil pan as well when you do that to get the oil inlet thing off. And, might as well do the water pump, timing belt, idlers, etc...

I've still got the original 3S-FE from my previous Camry sitting in my garage, so I can try to get the pulley from that. Thanks for the help!

In the manuals it says to take the pan off, but you don't have to. The oil pump can be serviced from the front of the motor, after the timing belt is off. Most likely your oil leak is the crank shaft seal, which can be fixed when the oil pump rotor is replaced. The water pump is easy to change at the same time.

Check the manual drawings and see that the oil pump is two pieces, the piece attached to the block can be left in place, whereas the piece that holds the rotor and timing belt drive pulley can be removed. I took mine off, both pieces along with the oil pan, and found this out. The oil pan didn't have to come off, there wasn't much sludge, and the strainer would have been fine as is. This was with 350,000 km on it.

But what I'm saying depends on where you find the oil is leaking from. The pan on the 5sfe uses silicone to make the seal, not a gasket. Some of the pan bolts are hard to access, and it helps if you can tilt the engine, by raising the back or lowering the front. The pan screws are unforgiving, don't cross thread them.

[drugal]

I have the timing cover off, and it's the oil pump that's leaking everywhere. I figured I'd take out the entire pump, so I could replace the oil pump case gasket as well.

So if I just take out the oil pump body to replace the seal and o-ring, and maybe the rotor, will this affect the gasket behind the oil pump case? Does this gasket ever go bad? Should I assume it's ok, or should it be replaced?

I'm replacing the camshaft and crankshaft seals as well.

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by drugal

I have the timing cover off, and it's the oil pump that's leaking everywhere. I figured I'd take out the entire pump, so I could replace the oil pump case gasket as well.

If you change that gasket, you have to do the pan too. Make sure the leak is not just the crank seal?

Originally Posted by drugal

So if I just take out the oil pump body to replace the seal and o-ring, and maybe the rotor, will this affect the gasket behind the oil pump case? Does this gasket ever go bad? Should I assume it's ok, or should it be replaced?

The oil pump gear comes as a set, with the O-ring, I think it's about $45 CDN. Just taking off the oil pump part that contains the drive pulley and pump gear, shouldn't affect the gasket on the pump body attached to the block. Mine was okay and if I had realized I didn't need to change it, I wouldn't have. The crank seal is cheap and easy to change.

[drugal]

The crank and cam seals are dry. As far as I can see, the oil's coming from the pump seal, and running down the block, steering pump, axle, control arm, and all over the place. It's reached beyond the front passenger seat under the car. I put fresh 5w10 in there, and the oil coming from the seal is nice and clean, so it's not old oil.

I'll try replacing the o-ring and seal. Hopefully the pump case gasket is ok. I hope to get this done this week.