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well i need to replace my idle air control valve since i get alot of vibration and things of that sort at idle, well any ways i need to know where its located (pics please) and also how much it would cost for one and where you would think i could get once for cheaps.
well i need to replace my idle air control valve since i get alot of vibration and things of that sort at idle, well any ways i need to know where its located (pics please) and also how much it would cost for one and where you would think i could get once for cheaps.
New IAC valves are >$200. I think mine ('99 i4) also has a messed up IAC valve; the car stalls randomly on cold starts (every 20 attempts or so).
Maybe you should try cleaning it first? That's what I am planning to do.
Does anyone have any good instructions on how to clean it? I've searched, but not found any good writeups. The Haynes (or is it factory?) manual says to be careful NOT to clean the IAC valve when cleaning the throttle body.
Does anyone have any good instructions on how to clean it? I've searched, but not found any good writeups
From yotarepair.com:
Q: I have a 95 4 Cyl Camry and it now takes forever to start when its cold. I just had it serviced for the winter should I go back to the dealer, maybe they missed something. Ryan P.
A: I hope the dealer did all they should but what you are experiencing is becoming normal for that model and is repairable. The part that failed is called an IAC (Idle Air Control valve), it gets plugged from engine oil vapors and does not let the engine idle high when cold. This has continued into later years and includes the RAV 4. These are able to be cleaned so ask your dealer for the cleaning and you can save 200.00 and it takes about 1 hour.
Now if you want to try to clean it yourself you can do this. You will need to purchase some carb cleaner from a parts store or some place like WalMart or Kmart. Then you have to have someone help you start the engine and kind of keep it running if needed. The process requires that you take the large black tube off the throttle body and unplug the Idle Air Control Motor. Caution, if you have no idea of what I just described do not proceed without having someone there to assist you. You then take the carb spray and spray a little into the small square hole you will find in the throttle body opening. Have your helper start the engine while you hold the connector for the IAC to the valve so that it makes contact. When the engine is running spray into the square hole and at the same time make and break the contact with the IAC connector so that the cleaner gets into the working parts of the IAC. You know when its clean when you hear a louder rushing noise from the throttle body when the connector is making the IAC work or open. Then all you have to do is clean the area and inside of the throttle body with a tooth brush (old one is preferred) and connect everything. Your check engine light will be on so when you shut the engine off open the fuse panel under the hood and remove the EFI fuse for about 30 sec. and it should clear. If it does not then turn the key to the on position and try it that way.
I've seen that writeup before, but I'm worried, because I've read that you should not spray carb cleaner into the throttle body while the engine is running, lest you damage the O2 sensors, etc. I guess it would set off the CEL because the MAP sensor readings wouldn't make sense.
Has anyone tried this procedure?
I think I'll try this or removing + cleaning the IAC valve this weekend or next. I'll report back with results. Wish me luck.
i might try that my o2 snesors need to be changed before my next trip to florida for spring break any ways, any one know how to to get the sensors on the cheap with out having to pay like 180 per sensor?
lol im broke cause i work for the geek squad and insurance is spensive
i might try that my o2 snesors need to be changed before my next trip to florida for spring break any ways, any one know how to to get the sensors on the cheap with out having to pay like 180 per sensor?
lol im broke cause i work for the geek squad and insurance is spensive
Both of them? How do you know? Unless you're sure, don't just go and replace them. Some service tech saying the code indicates a bad O2 sensor does NOT count as sure. It's too much money just to go and replace both of them.
well both of the sensors are oem i have 152647 on the car right now i think it wouldnt hurt im all about the redundancy of things those sensors should be replaced evey 75,000 any way why not both? i just realy want the idle quivering to stop it dosent do it in neutral but it will do it in park and reverse and wwaiting for a red light and it really pissed me off to watch my rearview shaking from something other than my subs
well both of the sensors are oem i have 152647 on the car right now i think it wouldnt hurt im all about the redundancy of things those sensors should be replaced evey 75,000 any way why not both? i just realy want the idle quivering to stop it dosent do it in neutral but it will do it in park and reverse and wwaiting for a red light and it really pissed me off to watch my rearview shaking from something other than my subs
Why not? MONEY!!! If you can burn it, go ahead and replace them.
Check your engine mounts.
AFAIK: The second O2 should not have any significant impact on how well the engine runs. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.
I've seen that writeup before, but I'm worried, because I've read that you should not spray carb cleaner into the throttle body while the engine is running, lest you damage the O2 sensors, etc.
Well your not spraying directly into the throttle body.
Theres a little hole at the bottom of the throttle body. The hole is before the butterfly valve within the throttle body.
Anyways you spray into this hole.
Quote:
I think I'll try this or removing + cleaning the IAC valve this weekend or next. I'll report back with results. Wish me luck.
If you remove the IAC, make sure you replace the gasket.
Well your not spraying directly into the throttle body.
Theres a little hole at the bottom of the throttle body. The hole is before the butterfly valve within the throttle body.
Anyways you spray into this hole.
Yeah, but the other side of that hole goes to the other side of the throttle. It's not going anywhere else. BTW: I have a CA emissions model (A/F sensor instead of O2 sensor).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 LE
If you remove the IAC, make sure you replace the gasket.
Will do. I guess that means another trip to the dealer. Ugh.
Thanks 88LE
(I was going to capitalize 88, so it came out **LE. That didn't look very nice )
Use throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner. First spray lots of it into the ICV untill it doesn't come out black. Use a cloth to absorb those black liquid if you like. Then spray some into butterfly and manifold. Start the engine and spary SLOWLY into the ICV. Too much engine will stall and die. Do this until you finish the whole bottle.
The cleaner should say O2 sensor safe.
Test the IAC valve first. If you manage to start the car , let it warm up and then bridge with terminals TE1 and E1a paper clip in the computer diagnostic outlet that you have close to the firewall. If the car idles up for 5 sec and then returns to around 750, your AIC is functional (it might be a bit dirty but fuctional). If you need to spray some TB cleaner to the inlet of the AIC valve, do it through the p porrt of the TB. In this way you avoid taking off the air inlet hose. Good luck
Test the IAC valve first. If you manage to start the car , let it warm up and then bridge with terminals TE1 and E1a paper clip in the computer diagnostic outlet that you have close to the firewall. If the car idles up for 5 sec and then returns to around 750, your AIC is functional (it might be a bit dirty but fuctional). If you need to spray some TB cleaner to the inlet of the AIC valve, do it through the p porrt of the TB. In this way you avoid taking off the air inlet hose. Good luck
I'm pretty sure mine works. I think it just gets stuck on some cold starts, 'cause the engine just dies on me unless I hold the throttle open. I wouldn't be fixated on the IAC valve if it weren't for the fact that this was a known issue with 99 Camrys (should that be Camries ).
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