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I'm gonna try to replace the transmission fluid in my tranny with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (Dexron/Mercon compatible). The drain and refill capacity of the 1993/a140e autotran is 2.6 usqt and the full capacity (dry) is 5.9. The new ATF costs about $5.50 a quart.
each change can only remove 2.6 quarts, cost= 14.30 for the oil, washers not incl.
I think that I will only go for 4 times at a cost of between $57-70 including washers.
Anyone have any input on this?
(almost all automatic transmissions (typically) cannot be completely drained unless the torque converter is removed, this is inherent to their design.)
Not really much to add. The fluid you have picked out is good. Just clean the pan/filter as you go.
If the fluid is worn out dump all of it, otherwise sounds like a great plan!
Maybe add a can of seafoam's trans-tune during the first fluid change and drive it around a week (or atleast a hundred miles I would guess) I did since noone else would. Don't ask me about it yet... Car hasn't been driven enough for me to form an opinion on the stuff.
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my tranny is kinda a rough shifter then again my corolla was also a prety rough shifter any input and ideas on that? im gonna change my tranny fluid again and hopefully i can get it all out ivae changed it 2 times before i want all the old crap out and new stuff in
you should, in addition to that you should also change the washer on the diff.
don't overfill you transmission, it will die almost instantly!!
you should check the level beforhand too and try to measure the amount drained and replace with less and then keep filling up until the level is right.
did the simple drain and refill, the amount removed was about 2.3 quarts, refilled with about 2.1 so far. shifts much, much smoother now -not that it was ever really bad before. I'm letting it rest because I can't bring it back to level until the oil drains out of the filler/dipstick tube.
I think that I will just do simple drain/refills until the fourth time when I will replace the filter, and the diff fluid (which can be fully drained). Anyone here have experience with replacing the filter in regards to prepping the gasket surfaces and is there already a magnet down there.
Oh, about the transmission gasket: it's a little ring of bare aluminum that is significantly deformed when torqued so it is probably not reusable.
I can't understand your strategy. Why don't you just flush the entire transmission fluid? Is there any benefit of doing drain/refill rather than just flush at once? Unless your transmission is more than 6 years old and you never changed the fluid before, flushing is faster and cheaper and 100% change. There is great instruction (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t9830.html) for tranny fluid flush.
there is no advantage to that versus the method that I am using, even that guy said it would take a considerable amount of oil ("10 quarts") to complete the proceedure. I believe that that proceedure is logically flawed.
I believe that proceedure will damage the transmission - specifically the pump - by starving it of oil and allowing it to run dry with metal to metal contact.
My proceedure is based on the toyota service model specific to my car's model/trim/year/location, and every other automatic transmission service instruction I've ever heard of. The only way to completely drain the transmission is to drain the torque converter. I've worked on transmissions before, dissassembled them, installed them. The only way to drain the whole system 100 percent, you must remove the transmission from the engine, remove the torque converter from the transmission, and pump the torque converter dry using a pump.
Anyone here have experience with replacing the filter in regards to prepping the gasket surfaces and is there already a magnet down there.
The filter bolts onto the bottom of the tranny, you'll see it when you remove the pan.
Theres a o-ring that goes around the opening to the filter.
Yes, theres a few magnets in the tranny pan.
You can buy a tranny pan gasket and filter from a Toyota dealership or as a kit from a autoparts store. I've used both and the gasket from Toyota seems to be of higher quality.
As far as prepping the pan, I clean it and the magnets with brake parts cleaner. Apply a bead of rtv silicone to the pan, install the gasket, let it set for like 20 mins. or so, apply a bead of silicone to the top of the gasket, and install the pan.
Becareful when tighten the bolts to the tranny pan. They need very little torque (8 - 10 ft. lbs.)
I learned a very valuable lesson on changing out tranny filters back around 7/97, when I tried to replace the filter on this GM vehicle. After five attempts, and becoming a social event all its own, I figured it out......... don't get the cork wet!!! oil would keep recoating the mating surfaces so I made sure to soak up all of the oil sources, cleaned the mating surfaces with alcohol washed, my hands and then installed it and tightened all the bolts and it worked out fine. I don't know if this applies to the a140e auto tranny, but it does look functionally identical.
there is no advantage to that versus the method that I am using, even that guy said it would take a considerable amount of oil ("10 quarts") to complete the proceedure. I believe that that proceedure is logically flawed.
I believe that proceedure will damage the transmission - specifically the pump - by starving it of oil and allowing it to run dry with metal to metal contact.
My proceedure is based on the toyota service model specific to my car's model/trim/year/location, and every other automatic transmission service instruction I've ever heard of. The only way to completely drain the transmission is to drain the torque converter. I've worked on transmissions before, dissassembled them, installed them. The only way to drain the whole system 100 percent, you must remove the transmission from the engine, remove the torque converter from the transmission, and pump the torque converter dry using a pump.
point well taken. But dont trans fluid fall to the pan if the car hasn't been driven in a while along with motor oil as well? So at the point of Drive there is metal to metal contact for a very very short term.
You formula was to divide everything in half but more or less thats not how it really happens tho. In real world theory at the 6th one you still have like 10-15%. If you do this flush 6 times how much fluid would you might of changed in the diff?
you know those cake pans that you bake cakes in that look like half-donuts? a torque converter looks like two of those welded together with only a small opening on one side. a certain amount of the oil that's in it when the crank is turning will instantly drain back into the transmission as soon as centrifugal force stops when the engine stops. the rest will remain inside the TC because it is the lowest point for that fluid.
two changes so far.... 2/1 & 2/3. ~71% new oil now (synthetic).
runs much, much smoother now... looking forward to bring it to 90% there is still a bit of brown still there. funny thing it takes about 20 minutes from adding fluid before I can measure with the dipstick, so if you're planning on changing your tran fluid - measure the volume of the old fluid.
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. Don't ask me about it yet... Car hasn't been driven enough for me to form an opinion on the stuff.
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