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Old 02-04-2005, 12:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Shaking Problem Resolved?

My car starts a-shakin' and a-shakin', at precisely 81 mph, almost always but NOT always. What could it be??? It's done so for a while, long enough to know with certainty that it is not the wheel balance or warped rotors.

So I've narrowed it down to cv-joints, wheel bearings, or motor mounts. Or, fuck it, or alien conspiracy... I think I'll just throw that in there.

Who has resolved similar issues. How. What do good motor mounts look like? How do you test bearings with a dial caliper? CV-joints? I only want to replace the offending part -surgically as opposed to replacing everything and eventually getting it right after a zillion bucks .
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It's the flux capacitor. It should turn on 7 mph early; it must be broken.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The flux capacitor is fine, I just checked it tomorow....
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the exact same thing only it happens at 61-68, i had it checked and it was my wheel bearings. I replaced the bad one and it's fine now
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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which bearing and how was the diagnosis made? I'm preparing for that eventuality.. Lucky me I live sorta close to a harbor freight...
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Wheel bearings you can usually hear and/or feel. Depending on the bearing you will have a rumbling in a turn or going straight. Depends on the bearings damage. I just drive in a quiet covered garage and listen to the sounds bounce off the walls.
Another more precise way to check, would be to jack your car off the floor, place stands under the car, grab the wheel with both hands and start pulling/pushing on it. Any movement towards or away from you indicates bearing issues. Spin the wheel, if you hear clicking, raceways are damaged. No repair, replace.
Bad wheel bearings are not good, ruins your comfort, wears tires unevenly. Usually telltale signs include cupping or feathering on the threads.
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i had a toyota mechanic look at it. They told me it was bad cv joint that'll replace for 500bucks. I went to another mechanic and he replaced the cv boot. Also while he was replacing it, he pointed out my wheel bearings was bad since there was a lot of movement. It was only on my left tire. It might be different for yours.
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Old 02-05-2005, 07:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I got a whole 95 steering nuckle assembly c/w bearing, abs sensor, brake rotor, splash shield and bearing with 120k km on it for $75 CDN at the junker.

Two strut nuts, the ball joint two nuts/one bolt, the steering joint, and the axle nut, swap it and it's done.

I think you can also by the bearings from toyota for $100 CDN, but then you have to deal with pressing them off and on. At least that's what Haynes said.

My 95 had the same kind of symptoms you describe. It had 470K km when the left front bearing went, so I figured buying one that felt good and had 120K km on it would give another 200-300k km.
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Old 02-05-2005, 12:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I live appox. 8 miles from a store where I can buy bearing spreaders, presses, and all kinds of made-in-china el cheapo highly specialized mechanical equipment, I'm looking forward to change it if it is indeed the case............

I think I'm gonna jack up each wheel of the ground and check for play with a dial indicator on the bottom of the rim while i push/pull on it.
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Old 06-09-2005, 08:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi, it looks like I am having the same problem with my Camry 2000, I bought it 2 years ago with 28K on it, now it has 80K. This problem exists from the first day I bought it, but for the first time I thought that it is just balansing or bad tires.

I have done some steps but nothing helps.

1) Change all tires to new ones
2) Balance them two times
3) Rims are changed to new ones
4) change one more time front tires + balance them 2 times
5) Changed front motor mount
6) Swap tires from the back to the front many times

Nothing helps, just character if the shaking changed a little bit .

any more ideas ...............
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Old 06-09-2005, 10:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My car does the same thing at 40 and 50mph. I had rear tires balanced and a wheel run test on both rear ad they were normal. No change. I was thinking if there was a TSB for my problem and then i read about your's. CV joints?
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Old 06-10-2005, 12:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anuthaCamry
I live appox. 8 miles from a store where I can buy bearing spreaders, presses, and all kinds of made-in-china el cheapo highly specialized mechanical equipment, I'm looking forward to change it if it is indeed the case............

I think I'm gonna jack up each wheel of the ground and check for play with a dial indicator on the bottom of the rim while i push/pull on it.
When you put the indicator on the rim, how much runout are you looking for? What is in tolerance and what is out?
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Old 06-13-2005, 09:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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On weekend I cheked wheel bearings, I have no a dial indicator, but I see no any movement at all.

Also I feel a light pulsation on the steering wheel. It is intermittent. this pulsation might be noted only if you go about 20 km/h and do a turn, when the steering wheel returns to the straight direction it self you could feel it with your hand.

Also I noted, this pulsation disappears for a while after I jack my car, but always returns back ater.
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If it is your Cv joints and boots and what not, Just replace the whole axel. It makes more sense to just change the whole thing since the mechanic will already be down there taking it apart anyways. No sense in putting and old axel back in with a new boot. Difference in price aint that big either.
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