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Camry & Solara Lounge Discussion area for every generation of Toyota's family car, the Toyota Camry. Lexus ES250/300 owners welcome! Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance and more.

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Old 02-12-2005, 04:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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problems problems problems...

We'll after I recently did my oil change I noticed a "tick tick tick" type of sound... it sounds like its comming from the valve cover so I am thinking I may need a valve job.

My exhaust is smelling sweet lately also... I am 100% sure that I have an exhaust leak comming from my flex pipe, its scraped on the front heatshield/cover/mount (I dunno) and pushed in (not so circular anymore). If I have my hood open and my car is on when I am under the hood I can smell the exhaust fumes comming up... and sometimes when I open my door I can smell it. If I do a few WOT pulls my car will have a very foul odor comming from the exhaust that I can smell outside of the car. My car has very little low end now compaired to what it had... and the top end is a bit sluggish aswell. If I put my foot to the floor (or in more) and my car stays in second gear it doesn't accelerate.. just gets louder same for 3rd and o/d (this is when the car does not downshift) . My car had alot more power before.

What is a good price for a valve job? If my valves need readjusting or they are sticking that could be causing loss of power correct? Could a fuel system upgrade (walbro pump, 7m injectors etc) and a little afm tuning fix this the foot to the floor sluggishness?

When I get my taxes back I will have a custom set of headers and a custom y-pipe fabricated at a local shop, I will also be replacing my OEM cat with a hi-flow. So I am thinking... maybe I will just have my exhaust completely redone welded flangeless instead of bolted (overboard way of fixing the exhaust leak ). Looking for some advice here... luv u all thanks.



96 camry 1mz-fe

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Old 02-12-2005, 06:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
JUST RE ENGINEER IT
 
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you have a restriction in the crushed pipe
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Valve ticking, if at low rpm, might be oil pressure.

Did you change the oil filter too?

What's the mileage?

Is it time to change the oil pump drive and driven rotor?
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Old 02-12-2005, 11:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry for the late reply I was at work. I have 106,300 miles, when I did my oil change I put on a k&n oil filter (this time and the last time I did my oil change). I got the car at 93,000 miles... I deliver pizza's so alot of crazy driving is done to get those pizzas there EARLY so I can get a nice tip . I hear the sound at idle... I have also noticed a little squeky belt noise from the bottom bottom area when my car is warming up... which may be from the oil pump drive... and the biggest pulley moves back and forth very slightly. I think you are right though... 500kcamry.
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robehsi
Sorry for the late reply I was at work. I have 106,300 miles, when I did my oil change I put on a k&n oil filter (this time and the last time I did my oil change). I got the car at 93,000 miles... I deliver pizza's so alot of crazy driving is done to get those pizzas there EARLY so I can get a nice tip . I hear the sound at idle... I have also noticed a little squeky belt noise from the bottom bottom area when my car is warming up... which may be from the oil pump drive... and the biggest pulley moves back and forth very slightly. I think you are right though... 500kcamry.
The mileage, you'll have to do the timing belt soon, if it hasn't been done recently. Do the oil pump at the same time, I think its $40 or $50 CDN for the drive rotor and driven rotor. It's easy to change. The front half of the oil pump case comes off with the belt pulley and pump rotors.
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