Cold Start Problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Camry100k · 02-17-2005, 09:38 AM

I've been having a problem with my 98 Camry 4cyl for the past week or two, where it doesn't want to start after sitting for a while. When I turn the key I have to put my foot down on the gas for a minute or else it stalls right away. After keeping the tach around 1000 for a minute it seems like the computer takes over and the rpm's ramp up to aronnd 1500 or so, and then it runs fine. Later on in the day, sometimes the problem goes away and it starts fine. I seem to have to problem more on colder days, and when it rains, which leads me to think it's an electrical problem, but changing the plugs and wires didn't seem to help at all. The timing belt was changed last year, and air filter was done with the plugs. The only other problems it has is an exhaust leak, but I'm not sure that has anything to do with it, cause it's had that for a year or so now. Maybe a problem with the computer controlling the high idle at start up? Just wondering if there's anything I can check before shelling out a fortune to a mechanic. Any ideas would be great.

btw. car has about 96k miles on it now.

ralfp · 02-17-2005, 11:19 AM

Idle Air Control (IAC) valve?

Fuel system (pump, filter, injectors)?

dna59 · 02-17-2005, 11:21 AM

I know alot of people say that it's the IAC valve, but it wasn't for me. For me my problem was my battery it wasn't good. I got a new one and all my problems went away. So you could check your battery and the IAC.

500KCamry · 02-17-2005, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camry100k

I've been having a problem with my 98 Camry 4cyl for the past week or two, where it doesn't want to start after sitting for a while. When I turn the key I have to put my foot down on the gas for a minute or else it stalls right away. After keeping the tach around 1000 for a minute it seems like the computer takes over and the rpm's ramp up to aronnd 1500 or so, and then it runs fine. Later on in the day, sometimes the problem goes away and it starts fine. I seem to have to problem more on colder days, and when it rains, which leads me to think it's an electrical problem, but changing the plugs and wires didn't seem to help at all. The timing belt was changed last year, and air filter was done with the plugs. The only other problems it has is an exhaust leak, but I'm not sure that has anything to do with it, cause it's had that for a year or so now. Maybe a problem with the computer controlling the high idle at start up? Just wondering if there's anything I can check before shelling out a fortune to a mechanic. Any ideas would be great.

btw. car has about 96k miles on it now.

When it runs does it hesitate under acceleration?

I have the same problem and believe it to be the ignition system, I had a broken plug wire for sure, and the others were at their life limit. The distributor rotor was coated over with this black insulating crud, I had bosch plugs, and the spark looked weak, the plug fouling looked like long term effects of a weak ignition system. The fuel system is okay. I still have to fix mine as it's been too cold to work on it. Think it might be the ignitor, but I won't know for few weeks until I have time to work on it.

Right now I have sequenced plug sparking, but the spark is a very weak blue. When I crank and spray fuel into the throttle body it doesn't fire.

Mike Gerber · 02-17-2005, 04:15 PM

Check the coolant temperature sensor with a digital volt/ohmeter with both a cold and warm engine. There should be an ohm spec for this in any service manual. Under normal operation, it senses the coolant temperature and sends a signal to the ecu to richen up the fuel mixture for a cold start. Your's may be defective and not picking up the fact that the engine coolant (and hence the engine) is cold.

Mike

ralfp · 02-17-2005, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 500KCamry

When it runs does it hesitate under acceleration?

I have the same problem and believe it to be the ignition system, I had a broken plug wire for sure, and the others were at their life limit. The distributor rotor was coated over with this black insulating crud, I had bosch plugs, and the spark looked weak, the plug fouling looked like long term effects of a weak ignition system.

He's got a '98. IIRC it doesn't have a distributor (my '99 doesn't). He's also replaced plugs & wires, so I doubt it's the ignition system.

The ECT (coolant temp) sensor is easy to check with a multimeter. You might as well do that.

Camry100k · 02-18-2005, 08:12 AM

Just to show how frustrating this problem is, the car is running fine today, no stalling, hesitation or anything. So I would think that would rule out the battery, since that shouldn't get better on it's own. I'll have to check out the temp sensor later on. Is there also a way to check the IAC with a voltmeter while I'm at it?

Thanks for all the help guys.

Camry100k · 02-18-2005, 08:36 AM

btw, anyone have a link to a pdf of the 98 repair manual? Or, is the 92-96 one maybe similar enough that the info on the temp sensor is the same?

whocares04 · 02-18-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camry100k

Just to show how frustrating this problem is, the car is running fine today, no stalling, hesitation or anything. So I would think that would rule out the battery, since that shouldn't get better on it's own. I'll have to check out the temp sensor later on. Is there also a way to check the IAC with a voltmeter while I'm at it?

Thanks for all the help guys.

might be the batt. if u drive it enough and it gets charged but u leave for long enough and it loses charge but that's my opinion....

i would goto autozone and rent a test to test batt & alt and the rest of what everyone else said

chubroko · 02-18-2005, 07:23 PM

I had a very similar problem on a 98 5s-fe 85K. Seemed to idle real low and the whole front end was very shaky until about a minute later when the ECU brought the RPM's back up to normal. I didnt test the IAC or other valves, but what seemed to help (at least for now) was cleaing the throttle body. Just get some cleaner (throttle body cleaner is better than carb cleaner) disconnect the air intake from the throttle body and spray in... ALSO open the throttle plate to clean behind it. Dont really know why, but this seemed to work for me, and it was similar symptoms, in the cold and when it rained.

toysarefun · 02-18-2005, 08:00 PM

You probably have a combination of problems, first your IAC is probably sticking some of the time. Your throttle body and throttle plate are probably dirty to. Does the car ever hesitate?, then that means your plug wires, distributor, and cap are probably worn and or/dirty. Like they say, that ECT sensor could be bad to, all these things confuse the cars computer and car runs funny as a result. Your overall problem is difficult for most ordinary mechanics to troubleshoot, you could also be having a fuel pressure problem, also not easy to troubleshoot. Your going to have to take it to a dealership just to find someone who can fix it. I recently bought a 95 camry, but I'm selling it because I can't afford the repairs anymore. Its been just one thing after another, it has the same problem as yours but its gonna have to wait.., its getting a new rack&pinion installed next week, another $700. Oh.., and your IAC is $200 or more just for the part.

[SMAN] · 02-19-2005, 11:25 AM

my 96 52-fe has been doing this every winter for a while now. what will happen is the engine will fire up, but the idle will never be high enough to catch it and hold it running in park, and thus it dies out. Unfortunatly, this kinda defiets the point of a remote start system in the winter. I have to slowely let my foot off the gas to get it to stay at 800 RPM, but if i jsut drop my foot off from anything over 1000, the enginge just dies unless the car has been warm.

87Camry5Speed · 02-19-2005, 12:23 PM

^^My '95 5-speed is a little like that- on a cold morning, it'll start, but the idle will sit at 1000 and some times drop lower than that. So I have to give it a little gas to keep it from stalling, and I hate revving cold engines

evne up to just 1500 or so. I think it's the IAC valve, some mornings (like today) it'll go to fast idle and stay there til it warms up.

whocares04 brings up a good point about batteries, and I'd like to expand on what he said- make sure those battery terminals are good and tight! My battery is a little older, but still holds a charge- however I experienced intermittent stalling on start-up until one night two weeks ago I hit the key... and nothing. Turned out to be a loose (-) terminal. Sometimes, it's as easy as that!

Steve

[SMAN] · 02-19-2005, 08:09 PM

I forgot to add that i'm running a yellow top battery that's pretty much brand new and I'm still having that problem. Is tehre a way to raise up the idle to say 1200 without having to press in the gas pedal?

97&02camryleI4 · 02-20-2005, 11:19 AM

I've been experiencing this problem with my 97' LE with 52k miles. I'd start it up (doesn't matter if it's cold start or after the car has been driven a while) and it would just die immediately. Other times, it'd work fine and idle at 1800 at cold start until engine is warmed up. Yesterday, the car stalled 5 times until I decided to hold the pedal down while starting and kept it there for a couple of seconds. Worked fine after that.

Battery has been replaced recently about 2 months ago so I'm gonna rule that out. I used to think it's the IACV until someone told me that unless you're at a stop light and the idle keeps bouncing, it's probably not. My other guess is the throttle body or intake system needs a good cleaning. I might just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and air filter since I bought them on sale and have them lying around. What you guys think?