possible broken drive axle or something. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 07:49 PM

i'm having issues with my car. Ever since it had a incident with teh curb. Where my car lost control and my driver side front wheel when head on into the curb. My steering wheel now wobbles to the right. Now given the fact that my car was in needing of an alignment prior to the incident.

Anyways here are my problems. My steering wheel wobbles constantly and geared towards the right. And now recently when i'm driving striaght i hear metal clanking from under the car.

The metal clanking i assume is my CV boots. Because both are torn. I assume its either the boots or the whole axle itslelf. Now i'm going to do all the work myslef so i figure i might as well do everything that can possibly go wrong. So on my list i have a possible curbed steelie, i would have to get a new one. Since my CV boots are torn , i should jsut change my whole drive axle since its almost the same price as doing 2 boots and its easier doing axles then 2 boots. I assume, i never a axle or anything like that. Then last but not least to get an alignment done. . I wonder how much everything is going to cost me. Is there any more possible answers to what can cause my wheel to wobble and the metal clanking sound.

mobes · 03-06-2005, 07:57 PM

I would just replace the axle assemblies with remanufactured ones. Mine were only around $80 each. Once you add up 4 boots and the fact that they're a pain in the ass to rebuild, it seems worth it to me. As for wobbling, you could very well have bent the wheel.

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 08:12 PM

I was factoring in the time and effort it takes for the boots and it would be easier and more time saving it i just did the whole axle instead.

Yea should be just the wheel issue right.

Where would i go about picking up a reman. one. I was going to pick one up at Napa or Autozone. And slap it on.

How hard is the task. Roughly how many hours. i assume 1.5

mobes · 03-06-2005, 09:16 PM

As long as everything goes as planned, I'd say that's a good estimate. The driver side one is cake, once you unbolt the knuckle the axle pulls/prys right out. The passenger one has an intermediate shaft though, and the carrier bearing tends to be hard to remove from the carrier. If it's rusted in, it's a bitch.

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 09:22 PM

Sounds interesting. Anyone have pictures of i'll be removing. I'm not going to have a chance to hit up all-data untill next week.

Hunting for my axle starts now. Should i just get the right one for my car. or should i upgrade to something stronger.

fredk · 03-06-2005, 09:22 PM

i have never heard a rubber boot clank, you need to check things out

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 09:27 PM

i wasn't speaking of the boots themselves. but the joint. sounds kinda like it but i'm not 100% sure. is there anything else that can possibly cause a clanking noise during accerlation.

I'm going after the axle right away because i know that is broken right off the bat. And the rim because it more then likely curbed. What else should a look into while i'm doing those change.

mobes · 03-06-2005, 09:32 PM

My speculation is that the clanking is from the bent wheel rubbing on the brake caliper or dust shield. The CV joints will make a clicking noise under acceleration. If it's constant, and not only under acceleration, I'd suspect a wheel bearing.

Here's a PDF of the Toyota TSRM section for 5S-FE axles.

Edit: Please save the PDF so I can remove it later.

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 09:35 PM

the clanking is on and off. so far i've only noticed it today. But then again today is the first time i drove with the radio off and the windows open. I didn't hear it on the drive back home. But then again the sound, seems like it was coming from both the left and right sides of the car.

Is the wheel bearing a part of drive shaft as well ? thanks for the PDF

mobes · 03-06-2005, 09:38 PM

The wheel bearing is not part of the drive shaft. It is pressed into the knuckle. If you don't have access to a bearing puller and a press, it's not a DIY. I'd change the axles, then if you still have the problem you can get the wheel bearing(s) changed later.

bowlofturtle · 03-06-2005, 09:39 PM

what would a faulty wheel bearing cause ?

I might have access to a press and bearing puller not 100% but i'll ask around.

mobes · 03-06-2005, 09:51 PM

I drove on mine for about 10k miles before I got it replaced, it was noisy and caused uneven wear on that tire, that's about all. Mine was just worn out though, if yours was damaged from hitting the curb then it might be worse.

bowlofturtle · 03-07-2005, 05:13 AM

is that like a high ticket repair job?

mobes · 03-07-2005, 10:57 AM

I'm not sure. I changed mine myself. It wasn't really that bad, so I suppose it just depends on the shop.

justchillinjefe · 03-07-2005, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobes

As long as everything goes as planned, I'd say that's a good estimate. The driver side one is cake, once you unbolt the knuckle the axle pulls/prys right out. The passenger one has an intermediate shaft though, and the carrier bearing tends to be hard to remove from the carrier. If it's rusted in, it's a bitch.

I tried to replace the drivers side axle, got everything unbolted except for the 3 bolts on the lower control arm. I gave up until i can find a larger air compressor and better impact wrench. Does anyone know if there is a way i can get around this, maybe pulling that bolt that goes up underneath the shock with the cotter pin through it?
other than that it took about 30 minutes to get everything unbolted. good luck.