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Old 03-10-2005, 11:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Replacing dogbone mount help...

I just ordered a torque mount off ebay because mines pretty cracked, the engine rocks back and forth when you accelerate and the car vibrates slightly in reverse and drive. It seems pretty cut and dry on how to replace it but I just wanna make sure how. I know it'a just removing 2 bolts but is that all there is to it? Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yup, block of wood and a jack at the corner of the oilpan, and just put enough pressure to support it, have someone hold the engine (don't want to break any other mounts), and just remove the 2 bolts, slide the new mount in (not too hard but can be a little tricky to get to line up properly), put your bolts back and tighten... wah-la 15 minutes and you've got yourself a new dogbone. I did mine this past summer.
Thinking about doing a new one soon and doing the DIY polyeurethane (sp?) mounts.
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I actually did mine after some trial and error. I did not go through the wood and jack method.

I unscrewed the bolt.
Following that, I was able to remove the old dog mount.
Once the bolt is remove, the engine will shift slightly (either to the back or front, I forgot)
I started put the new mount in. I secured the end of the mount that goes to the body frame. Since the engine shifted a bit and in order to get the bolt through the dog bone after the shift. I started the engine, put on my parking brakes.

Get somebody your trust with yout life. Ask him/her to depress the brake (paddle) and put it the car in D or R. Depress the accelerator (paddle) a bit while still having the other leg on the brake (paddle). VERY IMPORTANT to have the other leg on the brakes cos you car might run over something.

You will notice that the engine will move either to the front or the back when it gets some gas. Once the engine is in alignment with the bolt, quickly slot the bolt through the dog bone.

Much easier than the jack and wood thing but slightly dangerous.

And now to CYA: I am not responsible for any accidents/deaths/property damage/mishaps from following my instructions.
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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no offense, skewe, but that's a quick way to kill other mounts. the movement is movement that's putting incredible wear on your other mounts.
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I assume the long way is to disconnect the block from the transaxle, use a hoist, etc, so what's the downside to using the block and jack method? Is it possible to do the other mounts/absorber this way?
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you may also need a "fine adjustment tool" (read: hammer) to encourge the mount in and out of place
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks to those who replied.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
yup, block of wood and a jack at the corner of the oilpan, and just put enough pressure to support it, have someone hold the engine (don't want to break any other mounts), and just remove the 2 bolts, slide the new mount in (not too hard but can be a little tricky to get to line up properly), put your bolts back and tighten... wah-la 15 minutes and you've got yourself a new dogbone. I did mine this past summer.
Thinking about doing a new one soon and doing the DIY polyeurethane (sp?) mounts.
Which corner of the oil pan? Say if your looking under the hood and the dogbone mounts to the left of you. For the oil pan, front left? back left? front right? back right?
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I supported it from the left side of the engine (if you're standing in front of the car, it's the side opposite of you... toward the rear of the car).

You put a block of wood between the jack and oil pan so you don't scrape up the oil pan.
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
no offense, skewe, but that's a quick way to kill other mounts. the movement is movement that's putting incredible wear on your other mounts.
No offense taken
i did that and the other mounts are still kicking. i depress the accelerator a bit only, not rev it. Maybe the other mounts might break in the near future but for a 188k miles camry w/ oil leak which I am not able to fix, i do not see me keeping this car for the next 5 yrs.
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingEye
I supported it from the left side of the engine (if you're standing in front of the car, it's the side opposite of you... toward the rear of the car).

You put a block of wood between the jack and oil pan so you don't scrape up the oil pan.
Thank You Sir!
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Old 03-11-2005, 03:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Funny that I did not have issues replacing mine. Unbolt 4 bolts, take out old, replace new and bolt on.

Actually, my mechanic put it wrong, so then I corrected it.

No need to support of alignment.

I wonder...
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Old 03-11-2005, 04:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandyfig
Funny that I did not have issues replacing mine. Unbolt 4 bolts, take out old, replace new and bolt on.

Actually, my mechanic put it wrong, so then I corrected it.

No need to support of alignment.

I wonder...

lucky you
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Old 03-13-2005, 01:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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yeah, so I've done this about 4 times already on my camry and a few other peoples. The best way I've found it just to get someone to help you and use a long mechanics pry bar. Remove the old dog-bone and pursuade the new one in with the pry bar...just watch your hands and such, don't force the pry bar if it isn't secure.
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i got selleys liquid nails in my dogbone on the top...
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Old 03-16-2005, 03:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ughhhhhh...I'm trying to replace the mount because it came today and am having trouble. I losened the bolt on the side part of the mount but for the life of me can't budge the bolt on top. I tried WD-40 on both ends and the fucker won't budge And from constantly trying the bolt looks like it kinda stripping. is there anything else I can try?
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