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2.5L Camry 6 cylinder. 1990. The engine appears to be losing water somewhere but can't find it. Nothing on the ground, nothing in the oil or transmission fluid.
The temp indicator only goes up about 1/2 way but steam will start coming from under the hood.
It may be that the engine is getting too hot period and blowing the water out of the overflow.
I have changed the radiator and water pump and flushed the engine 3 times. As a last resort I pulled the thermostat totally.
Before just scrapping this car, I wanted to confirm my sneaking suspicion that the block is either cracked or warped. Would this seem to be right? I think the water is either going out the tail pipe or the engine is just overheating due to being warped or both.
I would guess that I need special tools to pressurize the system beyond sticking a hose in the fill spout and waiting for it to blow back at me.
Anyway, let us suppose it is getting into the combustion chamber, is there a fix for this beyond a new engine? I saw one stop leak product that said it would stop leaks even in the block but I'm not sure I would trust it.
2.5L Camry 6 cylinder. 1990. The engine appears to be losing water somewhere but can't find it. Nothing on the ground, nothing in the oil or transmission fluid.
The temp indicator only goes up about 1/2 way but steam will start coming from under the hood.
It may be that the engine is getting too hot period and blowing the water out of the overflow.
I have changed the radiator and water pump and flushed the engine 3 times. As a last resort I pulled the thermostat totally.
Before just scrapping this car, I wanted to confirm my sneaking suspicion that the block is either cracked or warped. Would this seem to be right? I think the water is either going out the tail pipe or the engine is just overheating due to being warped or both.
lol of course you cant find leaks! its being turned into steam and is going UPWARDS, not down onto the floor... where was the steam coming from = found the culprit...
if you have water in ya engine you may have a bad seal somewhere or somethings wrong wrong wrong
do you still have an OEM radiator cap? aftermarket ones run at a different pressure usually.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
i had this problem with my gen 3, and it may be quite bad for you ... it was for me.
i noticed steam coming from the hood and a smell like radiator fluid, and it turned out that the radiator had cracked and we had to get it replaced. it was about 350$ to replace just that.
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1993 V6 XLE Camry (196,000 miles) totalled 10-17-08
2006 Pontiac G6 GT (147,000 miles)
-License revoked until March 19th
I've replaced the radiator and the water pump and flushed the engine 3 times and even taken out the thermostat.
Okay, about steam. No steam coming from anywhere but the overflow when it overheats.
It is a 13# radiator cap but maybe that is too much. I have the old one but the rubber seal on it is ripped. Of course I could keep the temp below 212F if I leave the cap loose since pressure can't build up then.
Of course I'm also wondering why the temp gauge only goes up half way and stops even when it is obviously way hotter than that. Where is that sensor? I can find the one for the fan and the one for the computer, but not for the gauge. It isn't around the hoses anywhere or the pump. Must be somewhere on the block, but where?
Of course I'm also wondering why the temp gauge only goes up half way and stops even when it is obviously way hotter than that. Where is that sensor? I can find the one for the fan and the one for the computer, but not for the gauge. It isn't around the hoses anywhere or the pump. Must be somewhere on the block, but where?
Not sure where it is on a 2VZ-FE.
On a 3S-FE its on the neck that bolts to the right side of the cylinder head. The upper radiator hose connects to this neck.
There is something like this on the other side of the engine (LEFT side as looking from back to front) but it doesn't hook up to the water pump. That is on the other side of the engine. The one in my car has the fuel rail sitting on top of it and vacuum hoses going to the carb. Also has 2 hoses that may be heater hoses but not sure yet. However, I can't see anything that matches up to the temp sender .... anywhere on the engine. Maybe it is missing and I have a wire hanging loose somewhere.
Okay, I also have an engine trouble light that works out to 2 codes. 25 and 26 which one is "FUEL RICH CONSTANTLY" and "FUEL LEAN CONSTANTLY".
Would this be caused by the water temp? Would it cause the engine to overheat?
In case you're still skeptical, I second that headgasket... We had a radiator/cooling problem but it was leaking and emitting blue smoke... I thought it was the headgasket. People told me headgasket problems show white smoke...
How many miles? If it's still low mileage it will last you long once that headgasket is fixed...but of course doing that alone is expen$ive... Goodluck.
Also while you're at it check if the head has been warped, just to be safe.
That is what I've been hoping it wasn't LOL Actually it could be worse. It could be a warped block or a cracked cooling jacket.
What kept me from thinking headgasket is that it has plenty of power. A little rough at idle but she gets up and goes when I need her to. My experience has always been that a head gasket blown causes a loss of power.
Probably worth a shot tho. At least get the compression tested and see where that's at.
BTW. Blue smoke is oil usually. Black smoke is poor combustion as in lack of air.
Wish I still had my 75 Corolla. 4 hours to change a head gasket and that included a nap.
when my 3vz-fe's head gasket blew i only noticed a rough idle, that and the green stuff that smelled like bad candy dripping out the tailpipe. if your exhaust smells like coolant then its blown, if not then it may just be vapor, and i dobt you have a bad cooling jacket, these engine are pretty damn tough lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
Well, I spent the money to go to a reputable shop and have the cooling system analyzed. Turns out there IS a small combustion leak. Very small. However the crazy part is that the radiator cap wasn't working right. It was relieving at 3# vice 13#. We then tried the other 2 I had had on it. Same thing. So we checked and found that there were 2 problems.
1 - The new radiator is not exactly the same as an OEM so even tho the cap is for the car, it didn't quite fit this radiator.
2 - There was some damage to the seating are of the radiator so water could blow past it without actually lifting the relief.
Crazy.
NOW it works fine until I climb a hill. Then it gets up close to the red but not into it. I mean like a hair away. It cools down just fine once I reach the top.
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