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Do having lowering springs or some sort of sports springs on a car lower the thread wear of the tires?
Only if you never align the car after lowering it. After lowering the alignment will suck and the camber will be off meaning the inside edges of the tires wear faster than the outsides.
Eh I have found that I favor 0 degrees camber best over any positive or negative camber. Tein S springs, Tokico struts, Konig rims, and Kumho 712 supra 225/40/18 tires rock the twisties hardcore!
quick suggestion... don't get the allignment done RIGHT after your new springs/struts... need to wait a couple weeks to let the springs settle so that you don't need to adjust again after they go down another finger or half finger.... i waited a month or so on mine, i was lazy
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Lick first... ask questions later
Always best to do so. And while your at it, if your going for performance, have them add some positive camber. It will give you an edge in those turns
you mean negative camber. put 1.5-2 degrees of negative camber up front to improve HARD cornering grip, but with uneven tyre wear. i stress HARD cornering as camber does nothing if you arent pushing hard. 0 or even 0.2 degrees of positive camber to keep even tyrewear.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
after lowering mine with the Springtechs mine was 1 degree off but I will wait for it to settle before I align it. I have been eyeing the eibach camber kit for the job. Once these bad boyz settle themselves out I will get 2 pair and have my tires aligned. For now, the back "seems" lower than the front. But then again I measure with me eye instead my finger.
after lowering mine with the Springtechs mine was 1 degree off but I will wait for it to settle before I align it. I have been eyeing the eibach camber kit for the job. Once these bad boyz settle themselves out I will get 2 pair and have my tires aligned. For now, the back "seems" lower than the front. But then again I measure with me eye instead my finger.
no need for a camber kit.. the stock suspension can get around 5 degrees of camber adjustment easy.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
It's not really bad... You should always have it realigned anyways. The good news is that Toyotas are notorious for their ability to hit shit and stay in alignment. They tend to stay in alignment almost indefinately once they're put there.
Like terrastrife said. Camber and other re-alignment kits are not needed. They're not even made hah!
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no need for a camber kit.. the stock suspension can get around 5 degrees of camber adjustment easy.
I have a printout of what the factory spec is supposed to be (according to Firestone) and the Camber is supposed to be + or - 1 degree (or .98 degrees if I am not mistaken). The technician told me that the factory bolts would not allow for much (if any) camber adjustment. Thats why I have been eyeing a camber kit. It allows adjustments up to - or + 2 degrees. Is what the mechanic said true?
I have a printout of what the factory spec is supposed to be (according to Firestone) and the Camber is supposed to be + or - 1 degree (or .98 degrees if I am not mistaken). The technician told me that the factory bolts would not allow for much (if any) camber adjustment. Thats why I have been eyeing a camber kit. It allows adjustments up to - or + 2 degrees. Is what the mechanic said true?
The Camry suspesion does not change camber significantly when lowered. You will NOT need a camber kit... You should be running on the 'high' side (more negative camber) of the factory settings anyway (more camber is good... I run almost 2* all around on my WRX and 1-1.5* on my Camry).
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
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