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It is very much a DIY job! You will slap yourself after you change your own for the first time for all the $$$ you threw away. I suggest you get someone to show you how. Usually this involves having them do it for you while you tag along and watch every step and ask any question that may come to mind. After that you will slap your self.
get a hayne's/chilton's manual and then make a search on TN about changing brake pads...between all the thread questions asked, there are basically step by step instructions with a whole bunch of tips that people give too
and yes...very much a diy job....
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Nothing about any of the process is complicated. The only reason it get's a 3 is because you need C-clamp, some small tubing to put on the caliper bleeding nipple & a jar with some brake fluid to submerge the tube to bleed them.
That and it takes a little while to do by yourself. If you're still young enough to hang under/out of the drivers side of the car and pump the brake pedal as you bleed, it's an extremely quick way to bleed the brakes hahahahaha
Otherwise, just give it maybe 10 pumps, and be sure the brake fluid NEVER drains alll of the resivior tank.
There are a billion places to read directions online. Nothing special on Camry brakes, just whatever generic instructions you come across for disk brakes, use those. (you will want to specify Camry wagon, or ES 300 rear brake rotors/pads when you change them. They are slightly larger than the regular camry ones)
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thank you everyone. Ill let you know how it turns out.
these are the things that make me nervous:
"Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted"
BTW there are no chilton or haynes books for an 2002+ camry
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You will not have to have your car repainted. The excess brake fluid will push out through the top of the cap on the master cylinder (it is vented) and will drip down from there. This will be inside the engine compartment. When you are all done, wash the area down with some warm water or some brake-clean. Also, you will not have to bleed anything if you are only changing the pads and/or the rotors. The calipers only need to be bled if you replace the calipers, which necessitates opening up the brake hydraulic line to remove them and reinstall the new calipers. It is, however, a good idea to bleed clean/fresh brake fluid through the hydraulic system every 2 to 3 years. You may want to save that for your next project as your confidence grows.
This really is not that hard for the DIY'r, but read through a manual first and do 1 side at a time so you will have the oposite side for a reference.
Eh... If you do it one caliper at a time and take the master cylinder cap off, and it's not above the FULL line...
It is NOT going to be pushed out of the top of the res when you compress the piston.
Yes... Brake fluid does a great job of eating paint if you leave it on there. I had a girlfriend in hs and one of the girls she hated (why can't chicks get the fuck alone?) dripped something like brake fluid on her hood and wrote a lop sided BITCH on it.
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
for anything, anytime; including camry turbos Now with Turbo!
How much does it usually cost to change your brake pads?
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2009 Toyota Camry SE-(BLK LEATHER,NAVI,Debaged,Blue LED shifter mod,20% Tint)
2004 Toyota Camry LE(SOLD)
1989 Ford Tempo AWD(SOLD)
dude, whatever garage charges you that...you're being buttfucked for a brake job. Last time I had someone else do it, it was 50 w parts included....daymn
Semi Metallic at Autozone for $30 took fifteen minutes to do. Remember how theclips go on and you will be fine. The pads also have a lifetime warantee so the next time you change them you take the old ones in and they GIVE you new ones. Cake job. Takes longer jacking it up and taking the wheel off then anything.
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