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hey all... me and a mate have pondered this to death, cant wait to see what the dealership says in a few days... hopeing someone here might know whats going on so i dont get destroyed by the mechanices... (as you can see, my spelling is useless)
car, 2000 V6 auto
history, replaced sub-frame from violent crash, suspension hub arms etc on front left wheel, including the mag, hense how violent the crash was...
had a motor bike go over the bonent, but hit the front left guard... when the insurance man fixed it, he said he had to get some expert to fix the relay box on that side of the engine bay, as the impact stopped the car from starting... (so maybe something in that box again, hiarline fracture of board?)
has a killed switch that interuprts the EFI relay, hense car turns over but no start... However, if you try to start it with the kill switch off, after you flick it and restart, it struggles to get going until it pulls some fuel...
have also removed the intergration relay though shear boredem, but have checked all connections...
when i went over a rough intersection the other day (turning right) the engine warning light came on and the car lost all power for about a second... didn't notice it straight away cause the stereo was up... then it all kicked in and came good...
stopped at a mates place 5 minutes later, apon leaving, it lost power while idelering for about 0.5sec and then went to normal, engine light coming on then going off...
about 2 night later, it lost power going around a round about, but the tank was fuel of full and have been sucking that fuel for quite some time... again same thing, loses power for 0.5sec and then comes to life, engine light on again
then the more disturbing bit, on the highway cruise on 100km/h, the car leans forward as if there's absolutely no power going to the wheels, but the engine revs remain at 2000rpm... 0.5 seconds later, it jolts hard back as if the drive was just fed back to the wheels... about 2 seconds after that, the engine light comes on for 4 seconds then goes off...
the car had hardly slowed down in that 0.5 ~ 1 second of what felt like no power to the wheels, but jolted like hell getting power back, tacho saying no change in engine revs...
it did this 4 times before i found a place to pull over and check trans fuild, it was fine... car isn't losing fuild in driveway etc...
did it a few more times on the way home... then leaving home for and easter saturday do i have to open the shut the gate... pull up and stop to open gate, get out, car stalls... come back in engine like permently on... turn car off, restart and drive though gate, stop, get out to close gate, it stalls... engine light remains on... at this point i tucked the camry into bed and it remains there...
so any idea what the hell is going on???? like the highway thing i thought might be the transmission, cause the engine didn't appear to change revs (but i couldn't here it as the whistle from my drivers door was loud from removing most of the door the day before)...
yet it stalled while iderling in the drive way...
has oil coolent trans fuild fuel etc etc, but i have no f**king idea whats going on...
if anyone could word me up before i take it into the dealership i'd be damn grateful, as me and me mates have no idea what to expect and i hate going into repair shops blind...
try and find a shop that will read the codes from the ECU unless the fuse from it been cutting out it should hold the codes that triped it and that would give you an idea where too look ... also check the fuse/relay box and make sure nothing is loose (wire, fuses, relays)
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^ and leaving it that way!
yeah i'd suggest the same thing. get the codes read. autozone can do it for free. write down what the codes are and post them up here so we can know that too...
also i agree that you should check the entire fuse box by pulling every relay out with the wire connectors from the bottom it might take you a little effort, but it might help. also, it might not. also check your connections to the battery.
this might be a stealership only problem. you may be forced to take it in...
i hope i never have that bad of a problem, cause the dealer wont even know whats what in my car. all my wiring is factory and custom, i have a non factory motor in place with non factory connections. basically if my car ever has a problem like yours, i HAVE to fix it myself, cause nobody else knows what i did and how it all works together.
also, i would go ahead and replace the EFI relays just in case. i'd put new ones in just for reassurance.
and by the way mate, its CIAO! being italian, i get sad when i see people misspelling it. worst is when people say chow! haha
cheers all for the input, i've read somewhere once about codes etc...
these are done from the diagnostics (spelling again???) terminal thingy on the left upper side of the engine bay yeah?? keeping in mind its an australian car, i assume there in the same spot....
i'm going to call them tomorro, but i once had a mate tell me something about been able to buy the software yourself and plug into your own car... i'll look into more and tell you the results...
thanks again all, and just for a little feed back, i once posted here asking where the reciveing circuit is for the remote entry button, well i didn't find it, i did find the imbolizer though, but i couldn't work out how it worked...
I did however pull the door apart and found a 3 wire plug, one common, two not. When the common is shorted with one of the other two, the car unlocks/locks as if someone used the key in the door, hence alarm turned off etc etc
anyways, as soon as i know more, i'll let you guys know
cheers for the correction too zoni, i should know something about it, but i'm only half and never learnt the language (shit i cant even spell that!!)
i searched for info about error codes etc, and now i'm somewhat confused about it all...
from what i can learn so far, you can buy something that plugs in and reads the codes for you, but i'm trying to avoid buying that thing...
also, i've read alot of forums where people Have already identifired there codes either with an "OBD2" or gone to some place with auto in the name... i take it that place is in the US... none in australia that i know of yet that will do it for free...
then i read about shorting pins TE1 and E1 to make the CEL flash certain times to read out the codes, some people say it wont work on my model camry, other say other pins...
anyone had expereince in this area and know for sure what exactly i have to do or should i look for one of these code reading thingys??
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