spark plugs on 99V6

[2olforthis]

Hey Toyota - can a brother get some clearance!!! Just finished changing the plugs on my 99V6 and those back three were a pain in the ass. Even with the right hand tools, absolutely no space to work. At one point I was using the handle of a mallet to push the rachet from between the manifold. When the dealer quoted me $190 for the tune up, my initial response was - FU. I'd probably pay $100 to not have to deal with that BS next time. Anybody have any suggestions for the clearance issue for the backs. There's barely enough room to turn the wrench.

[albertezza]

I've already posted on this forum, but I didn't know how to link

to it, so here is the text:

After reading the posts here, I was prepared for the worst
when setting about to change out the spark plugs on my
Camry V6 1MZ-FE; mentally prepared to have to remove the
intake manifold. As it turns out, with the right tools,
the job took under an hour. This was a '94 V6, with six
individual coils above the plugs.
Tools required
Facom B.J16A2 16mm spark plug socket, 250mm long (almost 10"), 3/8" drive
Facom B.J211 125mm (almost 5") wobble extension, 3/8" drive
3/8" ratchet
1/4" ratchet
10mm socket, 1/4" drive
6" extension, 1/4" drive
10mm combo wrench
long sleeves & latex gloves
flashlight
5mm hex wrench
Here's the procedure:
1. Locate the PCV valve, it's on the rear valve cover, passenger side,
has a right angle fitting. Pull the hose off, and then snake the
hose back out from under the input manifold. This is key, since
it's removal provides room for you to access the coils and plugs.
2. Just above the PCV valve is another hose going into the left side
of the input manifold. Pull this hose off and move it out of the way.
3. Remove the 10mm nut holding on the metal bracket that holds a vacuum
pipe, located between the input manifold and the firewall. Push the
bracket towards the firewall as far as you can. This too
is key, as it provides access to under the manifold from the rear.
4. Unlike other instructions in this forum, I found you can access
all 3 rear plugs from the passenger side.
5. I recommend you do the front 3 first, so you can see how the coils
get connected to the plugs. Begin by removing the black plastic
cover by removing the two chrome nuts with the 4mm hex wrench. Just
pull the cover off after removing nuts. Press connector release to
disconnect coils. Remove 10mm bolt. Pull coil off. Replace plug.
6. For the rears, begin by disconnecting the wires from the coils.
7. Using the 10mm socket on the 6" extension, snake it to the coils,
and remove the bolts.
8. Pull off the coils.
9. Using the long spark plug socket and wobble extension, snake it down
into the spark plug hole, and remove the plugs. The key is to
have the 8 degrees of wobble bend at 10" out from the plug.
10. Replace everyting in reverse order.
While the Facom tools are shockingly expensive, they did earn their keep
in this application. At ultimategarage.com, the socket goes for $38 and
the wobble extension is $26. The other tools are commonly available.

[shanzhu1]

plug socket into the plug hole, since it is so long and not flexible?

I feel there is not enough clearance between the valve cover and the
intake assembly to insert a socket that long.

Another question:

After you insert the plug socket, then you connect a wobbling extension (5") to it, right?

Where would your ratchet be located to turn?

Thanks,