Oh boy. I dun broke somethin

[TheMajesticking]

I have no clue what these two sensors due but I broke of the little plastic nipple that the hose goes on to. I went to pull the hose off and it broke the nipple off because it was so old. It looks like it's happened before because the one on the sensor on the right is broken off too. you can easily see that the piece is broken on the left sensor but the one on the right is broken off in the same place that the "cap is on the other side". A mechanic told me to wrap electrical tape around the hole until i get a new sensor. Hard to explain but my big question is what the hell are these things and how will they affect my performance?

BTW: Toyota says the parts together would cost $95.

[Luckynumber5]

the right one goes to a fuel pressure regulator of sorts, the left controls the acis valve on your intake

[Toysrme]

Here's what you need to do...



1) Unbolt the bracket holding the two VSV on the engine. (2 10mm bolts)
Throw that away...

2) Look under the battery. You will see the vacuum tank that stores vacuum for the ACIS system. (follow the long vacuum hose to it) Take the vacuum tank out, and throw it away...
***KEEP BOTH VACUUM HOSES*** We are ging to re-use them.

3) On top of your throttlebody there are three vacuum ports. They are switched from low vacuum under 3,000rpm, to high vacuum over 3,000rpm.



The two facing the PASSANGER side of the vehicle are used for controlling the EGR system. This is the bane of the entire engine... Unplug BOTH control hoses. Keep them ONLY if you have emessions checks.

4) Reset the ECU... Pull the EFI fuse for 5 seconds = ECU Reset. (We need the ECU to quickly correct for a different air/fuel strategy)

5) Configure the vauum valves as follows. The FPR goes to the front most port. *a note* The FPR will now be recieving vacuum much earlier than before. The fuel system will be squirting much more fuel at low load levels. Enough to affect gas mileage.

The ACIS vacuum hose goes to either of the middle ones.











We've accomplished three important performance goals.

1) The ACIS valve will now slam shut very early. If you open the throttle at IDLE, there will be enough vacuum to shut it. This will improve performance under the (car moving), 3900rpm, and 50%+ TPS when it normally switches. (Flap open = good low end torque my ass... it looses power any time it's open)

2) The EGR system WILL effectively be blocked. At least for the most part. It will still leak exhaust so you'll definately want to block it off if you don't use emessions.

3) You now have the fuel pressure on the stock system to support a turbocharger without ugprades at LOW engine load/power levels. (no re-tuning required for cruising)

[Toysrme]

I think there are about 4 of us running our vacuum system this way.

This can be a great opportunity for you.


You can easily remove the upper intake air chamber:
1) clean it and the ACIS system (to re-gain about 5hp)
2) DELETE all EGR systems, blocking them off. (You can take the pipe out of the rear exhaust manifold and cap it with a 5/8 brass plumbing cap)
3) DELETE throttle body/manifold/EGR valve cooling system


By the time you're done deleting that and the vacuum tank, you've ditched systems you don't need, are hurting you, and you loose about 10lbs of dead weight

[TheMajesticking]

Wow. Sounds like a pretty good idea. However I need more details before I take on a task like that. I guess I could PM you for details. I may do this tomorrow evening. About how long do you think this process would take and about how much MPG am I losing?

[Toysrme]

If you reset the ECU it'll figure it out nearly instantly it needs to change something. If you dont... It'll take some time before the ECU get's around to making any semi-perminant fuel change. So you won't be loosing any MPG if you reset the ECU to begin with.

Longest part is just getting the courage to change something on the engine.


IM information is in the sig, Email and such is in the profile if you need me.

[sanengo]

It took me 3 weeks to get that information outa brandon! and he just gave it to you in a nutshell . I may be able to help also as I just did the mod successfully with my car's existing tubing thanks to toys

The VSV you can bypass, but the other sensor needs some repairing.

[Toysrme]

:P soooorry LoL!

[fe519]

it looks like the vsv for the evap

[Toysrme]

Good guess but no. 3vz-fe's don't have a VSV for evap. It runs straight through a connector on the IAC.


Depending on how much they've faded, the red/orange/brown is the ACIS's VSV, the blue/green/teal is the FPR's vsv.

[TheMajesticking]

Originally Posted by sanengo

It took me 3 weeks to get that information outa brandon! and he just gave it to you in a nutshell . I may be able to help also as I just did the mod successfully with my car's existing tubing thanks to toys

The VSV you can bypass, but the other sensor needs some repairing.

Cool. Did you car drive differently at all?

[jackfrost1031]

if you feel confident that you won't break the thing taking it off in a junkyard you could always go that route.

i broke one of my VSV, went to a jy and broke it the exact same way. On the only 2vz I could find in the entire yard.