More details needed on changing timing belt.

[shanzhu1]

Hi,

I got 96 V6 and it got 69km on it. I am thinking of changing the
timing belt since it is recommended to be changed every 60km.

From Haynes manual, it does not seem to be that complicated
but I'd like to have the opinions from thos who did it before:

1. The manual says I need to first remove spark plugs. Is this
really necessary? (since removing plugs involves removing intake
assembly, coolant pipes etc).

2. It seems that removing plugs is for being able to move camshafts for
belt alignment. But, can I mark exact position of the old belt and the
sprockets so I can put on a new one with exact same position without
moving the camshafts (thus no need to remove plugs)?

3. What is the most difficult part? Removing the drive poley on the crankshaft?
Any trick on this?


Thanks a lot.

[88 LE]

1. No, you don't need to remove the spark plugs. However removing them will make it easier to turn the motor by hand.

2. You can mark both camgears, crankshaft pulley (the one the belt goes around, not the crank pulley), and the belt.

Then transfer the marks from the old belt to the new belt.

I would still turn the motor over from TDC to TDC and use the factory markings to verify belt alignment.


3. Use a bolt type pulley puller. Do not use a jaw type puller, you'll risk damaging the crank pulley.

The hardest part is getting everything aligned correctly. Make sure everything is aligned, otherwise the motor will run like shit.

[fredk]

get the crank pulley bolt out before you remove the plugs

[shanzhu1]

what I thought and hoped.

I don't want to remove the plugs since it is too much touble.

I was thinking I'd mark exact belt teeth matching positions on
camshaft polleys (two of them) and on crankshaft polley. Then
transfer these three positions to the new belt and put it
it on. I don't see how it could be possible to mess up the timing.
Is it easy said than done?

By the way, I heard the bolt on drive polley (on crankshaft) is
very tight. I plan to use a break bar but how do you hold it to
prevent it from spinning?

Thanks,

[shanzhu1]

How do you hold it to prevent it from spinning when break
loose the bolt?

[88 LE]

Originally Posted by shanzhu1

I was thinking I'd mark exact belt teeth matching positions on
camshaft polleys (two of them) and on crankshaft polley. Then
transfer these three positions to the new belt and put it
it on. I don't see how it could be possible to mess up the timing.
Is it easy said than done?

Thats one way of doing it. I prefer to use the marks that are already on the engine.

http://www.yotarepair.com/1FZ-ME_timingbelt.html

Which method you choose is up to you. I still recommend turning the motor from TDC to TDC and check the alignment of both cam gears and crank pulley using the marks on the engine.

And everything is easier said then done.

By the way, I heard the bolt on drive polley (on crankshaft) is
very tight. I plan to use a break bar but how do you hold it to
prevent it from spinning?

Easiet way to remove the crank pulley bolt is to use a air impact wrench.

If your using a breaker bar you can do one of 2 things.

1. Remove the plate on the bottom left side of the tranny. This allows you to get to the flywheel/flexplate and wedge it with a crowbar. After you get the flywheel/flexplate wedged, use your breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt.





2. Wedge the breaker bar against the frame of the car and tap the starter, that should break the bolt loose.

If your going to do this, I would disable the fuel and ignition system for safety reasons. Pulling the EFI fuse should do it.

[500KCamry]

88LE means either 1 or 2, not both at once.

Method 1 takes longer because you have to remove the transmission plate, this is not needed for method 2.

Method 2, the starter works great to loosen the crank pulley bolt. But you have to disable the car so it will not start because that could be dangerous. On 5SFE's its easy to pull the plug wires, but on the V6 this is difficult. When you think you have the right fuse (EFI), test it to make sure it won't start. Then wedge the breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt so the handle points to the front on the car. A quick turn of the ignition key to engage the starter will loosen the bolt.

[shanzhu1]

the starter to loose the bolts. I need to find the EFI fuse to disable it.

I am just thinking what if the engine starts I can still tune it off
immediately. Not a disaster, right? The bolt may just fall off, eh?


On the other hand, would it be possible if the bolt is too tight (150ftlb +), that
the starter gets stuck and burns out? Just curious.

The first method sounds a bit safer . Thanks a lot.

[Toysrme]

I need to find the EFI fuse to disable it.

That's the safe way. As little time as that takes.

I am just thinking what if the engine starts I can still tune it off
immediately.

You would *never* catch that in time.

Not a disaster, right?

Well... Probably wouldn't destroy anything, but seriously something you dont' want to do...

would it be possible if the bolt is too tight (150ftlb +), that
the starter gets stuck and burns out?

Not at all. If you bump the starter as quickly as you possibly can, the engine will move.







You don't hold the starter down... You simply need to turn the key to start, then back off as QUICKLY as possible. That'll loosen the bolt without breaking anything.

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by shanzhu1

the starter to loose the bolts. I need to find the EFI fuse to disable it.

I am just thinking what if the engine starts I can still tune it off
immediately. Not a disaster, right? The bolt may just fall off, eh?


On the other hand, would it be possible if the bolt is too tight (150ftlb +), that
the starter gets stuck and burns out? Just curious.

The first method sounds a bit safer . Thanks a lot.

A toyota mechanic gave me method 2. I've done 8 belt changes like this and it works just fine.

Method 1 I never thought about doing, but it would work. I wouldn't do it myself, because you have to put the car on jackstands and then roll underneath to get at the tranny plate. Too much time an trouble to me. Method 2 you can do from the wheel well with one jack stand.

On the 5SFE, the long timing cover bolts fit into the holes of the crank pulley when you go to pull it. Might be the same on the V6. Got my first V6 belt change in another 25K km.

[shanzhu1]

Originally Posted by 500KCamry

A toyota mechanic gave me method 2. I've done 8 belt changes like this and it works just fine.

Method 1 I never thought about doing, but it would work. I wouldn't do it myself, because you have to put the car on jackstands and then roll underneath to get at the tranny plate. Too much time an trouble to me. Method 2 you can do from the wheel well with one jack stand.

On the 5SFE, the long timing cover bolts fit into the holes of the crank pulley when you go to pull it. Might be the same on the V6. Got my first V6 belt change in another 25K km.

Thanks for the info. So, after you put those two screws on the polley, what do you pull
the polley against? Do you need to buy a screw type puller for that? Thanks again.

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by shanzhu1

Thanks for the info. So, after you put those two screws on the polley, what do you pull
the polley against? Do you need to buy a screw type puller for that? Thanks again.

You can buy a cheap screw type steering wheel puller. You might have to grind the ends of the puller so it fits in the recess of the crank pulley. The trick is to ensure that the threads of two bolts attaching the puller to the crack pulley engage properly.

[Cyorke]

I didnt notice anyone telling you where the EFi fuse is. If you are going to try the breaker bar technique. I am a former Toyota tech and used to use that setup alot. the EFI fuse is in the engine compatment in the fuse box that looks like a rectangle with one corner cut off. My 94 V6 is number 6 fuse I would imagine your 96 is the same. Also everyone keeps telling you to use the timing marks on the cam gears and crank gears, this is by far the easiest way. Your Haynes manual should show these marks. Just a hint take the top part of the timing cover off so you can see the cam gears then turn the engien with a breaker bar or whateve suits you til the marks are lined up on the cam gears. If they are lined up there then the crank gear should be good also. Once you have it lined up you should be able to take everything apart and nothing move, most of the time you wont have anything move anyway. You may want to go ahead and have a water pump, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and cam crank and oil pump seals available so you can replace all of those at the same time. You wouldnt want to have to do the T-belt and then a couple of months down the road have to do it all again to replace one of these. If you see any seepage from the water pump replace it. The same goes for the oil seals. The pulleys should spin freely and quietly. This is just my two cents worth. Like I said I was a former Toyota Tech and this was every day work for us.

[pk_kk]

wait wait wait i thought timing belts are suppose to be replaced at every 120km. I took out the old belt and it still looks brand new.

[Hajoca]

Get a friend to help you out. I have not done a timing belt by myself yet.

on the V6's 1MZ-FE a second set of hands are a great help when aligning the belt, cams, and also to keep an eye and hand on the cams (be nice and let them use wrenches to hold the cams) when working to put belt around crank pulley and when putting on the tensioner.

Turining the engine over once will show you if the
When I do the timing belt I marked the belt and cam with white out and counted teeth between the marks of the crank and cam on the belts just to be sure.