Turboing 3vz-fe

[just2asian]

Hey all summer is coming around and I'm about to turbo my gen3 3vz. I noticed that someone has turboed a 3vz before and was wondering if anyone could provide a list of all the parts i would need and possible modification tips. I'm probably not going to rebuild the motor, just gonna use what I got and if the motor goes then I'll worry about that. Any info would be great. Thanks all.

[CamryPunk]

Custom work and money.

[TheMajesticking]

Originally Posted by CamryPunk

Custom work and money.

wow. that's it?

[Knailgun]

well, to elaborate for chris.....more money, less work yourself...that is all that is needed

[ag6286]

dude, just wait for the SGP kit, save urself the hassle, itll be out this summer, and bad idea not to rebuilt ur engine unless u have very low mileage on it, ifu turbo it dont be surprised if ur head gaskets blow, toyota uses very weak head gaskets in a lot of ther cars for sum reason; they even use weak head gaskets in supras MKIII and down, im not sure about the mkIV

[CamryPunk]

^ The 2jz-gte gaskets are BULLET PROOF.

[ag6286]

yea i figured the 2jz head gaskets would be but i wasnt positive, the head gaskets for most toyotas are sufficient for stock plus some but wont last long at all if they are old (old being around 125000+) when u start adding sum decent amounts of power...and since ur car is a gen 3 3vzfe im sure u have over that mileage...mine has 210000, i just had mine rebuilt and port and polished though so it should be ready for a turbo after i do a auto-manual swap

[Knailgun]

I figure I will do my rebiuld over the winter...time has gotten he best of the old girl, and then after that...maye the kit??? who knows

[ag6286]

rebuild first...youre most likely gonna run into other unexpected expenses with broken parts and things like that, i had to replace many many many bolts that broke or were too rusted, ended up misplacing parts and i also broke the hydrolic fan pump and lots of other fun stuff. After u get through the rebuild then get the kit if u still have the money for sure...if u have an auto, set some money aside for l8r to either do a manual swap or bulk up ur auto a bit; ur auto should beable to handle the power from the kit from SGP for a while but dont count on it to last long with heavy driving without some modifications

[Knailgun]

I have the 5 speed stocker.....JDM SE camry

[ag6286]

i wish i didnt have to do the conversion....i think i just may look fora new camry, my engine is great but my body is in horrible condition...maybe i can find one where somebody f*d up the engine with a decent body and manual shift...doubtful but worth a look

[Knailgun]

dude...let me tell you what, the 3vz is pretty fuckin aggressive with a 5 speed, there are a few out there...but no one is letting go of them...if you want mine...dig me up when I die...that is where it will be

[ag6286]

That right ther is my problem....i may have to turn to a junkyard for a body...who knows, its possible, thats where we found a 'new' body for our MKIII. Otherwise im gonna have to get a 2001 solara manual trans and convert from ther...imagine how agressive my 3vz would be with THAT trans with port and polish and a bunch of other mods...mmm speed

[sanengo]

There will be some more turbo'ed 3VZ-FE's soon, namely Toy's. Basically, small size turbos are fairly easy to work with, but real power for a good price will come from a bigger badder turbo. The intake path of our engine works similar to the 1VZ, maybe 88LE can help .

You will need custom pipes from exhaust, custom intercooler pipes, custom intake pipes.. practically everything needs to be custom. You'll need to relocate the battery to make room for the turbo and getting rid of some emission systems will help. It seems a turbo can run without a piggyback, but I would highly suggest one.

[Toysrme]

:P
Turbo would run on the stock ECU OK.
You can re-tune the AFM to help open loop, get a fuel pump way oversized for what you actually need (255+ instead of a 150-190lph you'd really need on the stock engine)

and use a real RRFPR. Then either add extra injector<s> with a controller, or swap the stock one's out.

The o2 sensors will take care of the car in closed loop with rediculous amounts of fuel before it will throw a CEL (even in diagnostic mode-1). Rediculous as in, you can flood the engine with so much fuel IT QUITS RUNNING and you'll STILL won't get a "bank XXX is too rich" code.
If there is a hole in fueling between mid-rpm closed-loop, boost and when open - loop tuning is correct. You can do some basic electronics (read throttle switch) and send a falsely high TPS signal to the ECU and trigger open-loop anytime you want.


What has to be understood, is that on the stock ECU without any real way of tuning it, you have to *grossly* oversize the injectors tog et it to work.