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Old 05-10-2005, 06:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Changing Plugs

Alright, I'm going to get ready to change my Bosch platinum tip plugs with NGK Iridium IXs and change out the wireset. I also bought a replacement cap because mines about to go south. I got a duralast cap. Is there any prodcure that I need to follow to change out the cap?

Another thing is that I also going to replace the fuel filter how big is the nut on the top and bottom (do I need a special tool, I have heard of it but I really don't know how big it is), so I don't strip the screws and also watz the correct torque are both of them.

O I can't wait to see the difference between Bosch shitty plugs and good japanese made NGK plugs!
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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for the cap, just take out the screws....never done a fuel filter... you really ned to look at it fo ryourself, as for special tools, theres these little circular clamp, that are normaill used for ac lines, ive seen them beign used for fuel filters, but again i am unsure
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Theres no gasket that goes on the Cap and I also don't have adjust anything?
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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fuel filter for gen3 are pretty hard to get to. i know there are some ppl who have done it and they can give you some advise. better still, just do a search.

anyway, if you are chaning all those, might be worth the investment to change the CAP and ROTOR at the same time. Just a FYI, remember which cable wire goes to the cap and rotor, just label them. Do not want to waste time looking for which wire going to which cap head.

That is pretty easy to do.

Have fun
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Old 05-11-2005, 04:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camryfanatic
Another thing is that I also going to replace the fuel filter how big is the nut on the top and bottom (do I need a special tool, I have heard of it but I really don't know how big it is), so I don't strip the screws and also watz the correct torque are both of them.
The top of the fuel filter has a bolt. Its either 17mm or 19mm.

And the bottom of the filter has a flare nut fitting. 12mm or 14mm.

For the nut on the bottom of the filter, use a flare nut wrench if you have them.

22 ft. lbs. for the bolt going into the top of the filter. As for the nut going into the bottom of the filter, just tighten it up till its tight.

Theres a copper crush washer that goes on the bolt. Replace the washer.

Quote:
anyway, if you are chaning all those, might be worth the investment to change the CAP and ROTOR at the same time. Just a FYI, remember which cable wire goes to the cap and rotor, just label them. Do not want to waste time looking for which wire going to which cap head.
I agree with changing the cap and rotor at the same time. The rotor is only a few bucks.

And definitely make sure you have the plug wires in the correct spot on the distributor cap. If you get them mixed up you'll have cylinders firing at the wrong time. Although that would be pretty funny to see.
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Last edited by 88 LE; 05-11-2005 at 04:19 AM.
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 LE
The top of the fuel filter has a bolt. Its either 17mm or 19mm.

And the bottom of the filter has a flare nut fitting. 12mm or 14mm.

For the nut on the bottom of the filter, use a flare nut wrench if you have them.

22 ft. lbs. for the bolt going into the top of the filter. As for the nut going into the bottom of the filter, just tighten it up till its tight.

Theres a copper crush washer that goes on the bolt. Replace the washer.



I agree with changing the cap and rotor at the same time. The rotor is only a few bucks.

And definitely make sure you have the plug wires in the correct spot on the distributor cap. If you get them mixed up you'll have cylinders firing at the wrong time. Although that would be pretty funny to see.
I spent 30 minutes running around looking at manuals, etc to find which wire goes to which dist cap slot. Luckily i had a Haynes manual somewhere whcih I looked it up, cos if not, I was going to hail down a gen3 camry and ask him to pop his hood.

Just small things that will save you a lot of headache and $$ if you label things the first time.
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Old 05-11-2005, 11:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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According to the Camry manual, there is packing that needs to be replaced if you take off the rotor. Or is for the cap also? Do I also have to set No. 1 cylinder to TDC/compression when I chage the cap or rotor?
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Old 05-11-2005, 03:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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A mechanic where I work is gonna basically do a tune up for me pretty soon. Told him how i'm getting shitty gas mileage so he checked out a few thing. He's gonna change my cap, rotor, pcv valve, plug wires (plugs were changed like 2 weeks ago with denso platinum's) and possibly thermostat because there all the original ones from 10 yrs ago. He said he can get the parts at a discount cause he's a mechanic and I won't have to pay for tax and we'll do the labor over a few beers as payment.
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Old 05-11-2005, 04:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hahaha, I guess thats the nice thing about having a common car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skewe
I spent 30 minutes running around looking at manuals, etc to find which wire goes to which dist cap slot. Luckily i had a Haynes manual somewhere whcih I looked it up, cos if not, I was going to hail down a gen3 camry and ask him to pop his hood.

Just small things that will save you a lot of headache and $$ if you label things the first time.
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Old 05-11-2005, 05:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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no, you dont have to have TDC on piston 1...just take the wires off the plugs then remove the cap from the dist. by leaving the wires on the cap you can just match the lengths. the cap is keyed so it only goes on 1 way. (like the rotor)
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