Finally, the first person took my advice and cut their Air-Flow Meter open and turned the cog two clicks clockwise to lean the ECU out.
It was an ES 250 owner not on Toyota Nation to boot!
Quit acting like a bunch of panzies! You're going to let an off-forum Lexus owner beat you to free horsepower! LoL!
He said it was a lot better after 4000rpm.
Between 2-4 clicks oughta be the sweet spot.
Ask anybody on any of the Toyota engine's that's ever used a piggyback to intercept the AFM / MAF. They're 10 horsepower hiding in simply leaning a stock (or near stock) engine out from the insane rich ness Toyota runs them at stock.
See spot (AFM)
See spot run!
Run spot run!
Spot died...
An opossum shot him...
Cut the silicon glue off the plastic top. Then pry the plastic top off. Rotota cog clockwise 2-4 clicks (start off with 2, maybe 3)
Combine with advancing distributor to 17*btdc from 10*btdc, and skip buying a piggyback.
With a fuel pump upgrade you could run mild boost on these engine's by retuning the AFM with a boost pressure switch and one/two of the 200cc cold-start injectors rigged into the intake.
(I didn't say it was the best way... But you could cover the engine safely if you don't go off stupidly exceeding your fuel!)
Hell of a lot cheaper than buying new injectors and a piggyback and all that other crap. At least, unless you can get the injectors to swap for extremely cheaply! You could probably tune slightly rich enough for that to work without an piggyback either but that's not as eligant as adding injnectors so you don't run rich all the time!
Man these older engines run in the mid to low 12 a/f ratio from the factory. Pleanty of room for leaning.
Especially how knock resistant the vz's are from weak ignition timing hah! Even when you bump the base timing up 7*, and lean it some they shouldn't ping on 87. :lol:
OBD-II will. OBD-I does exactly what it's told. :lol:
The fuel trim OBD-I imposes doesn't come into play in Open-loop for whatever reason. Once you get into open loop, you can rich or lean the engine enough to stall it if you feel like it.
TRD didn't know what they were doing then... Toyota sets them up from the factory past the point of making extra power from adding more fuel. (Not just you can't add more fuel... You add more fuel to the stock unit and you're loosing performance) Even with intake and exhaust work done.
the goods and bads of obdII.....with the 1mz, you can't even run an safc for too long without the comp figuring things out and eventually overriding your presets
A perfect timing adjustment on an engine dyno couldn't give close to 5hp on any of the engines. I guess 3 at most, but there is a lot of throttle responce to be gained with it.
A perfect timing adjustment on an engine dyno couldn't give close to 5hp on any of the engines. I guess 3 at most, but there is a lot of throttle responce to be gained with it.
are you saying that you'll get the same performance benefits without advancing the timing, but if you do advance the timing you'll get better throttle response?
alright...i just turned the gear 2 clicks, and...i dont wanna think that i got slightly more performance from it just because i was expecting it, but...i did. and...that's cool lol. now...i didn't wanna mess with the timing, seeing as how i dont have a timing light. and considering i did this little tweak at 3 in the morning hahaha. my timing is off anyways, i'm surprised the guy who smogged my car let it pass. i guess he figured that the little white boy needed his car
so...on monday i'm going to my grandfathers shop to check the timing, then set it to 17*.
also...i'm going to try that one mod to the intake plenum (?) and polish/knife edge it. seems pretty easy to me. i need a tune up...hmm. can anyone recommend me really good spark plugs that aren't just expensive and do the same thing as cheap plugs?
so i should just go with oem plugs? i was thinking i might try to experiment with so performance plugs to try and see what i can get out of my 2vz, but then again the plugs are old so new oem plugs would make a differenceset the gap to .044? my manual says to use platinum plugs and not to adjust the gap...why does it tell me to leave the gap alone?
If you use the Platinum plugs, you'll probably find that they'll last a lot longer (100,000Kms I think). You aren't meant to adjust the gap because you run the risk of it breaking in the chamber and then you'll have to go fish it out which ain't gonna be fun unless you wanted to clean out the engine when you take it apart anyways.
On an OBD-II controlled Camry, if you do this mod, what will happen? Namely, how will the engine learn this mod? The only way for the engine to know how much air is present is the MAF/AFM, and you just tricked that.
Also, does any mod like this exist for the MAP sensor in the 5s-fe?
There is also your o2 sensor, which to some extint takes presidence over nearly everything else when you're not cranking, or WOT. (Closed loop)
The only major fundimental differance in Toyota OBD-I and OBD-II tuning wise, is that OBD-I only tunes in the here and now (to use an OBD-II term, it's only short term fuel trim).
OBD-II makes use of it's long term fuel trim corrections in both closed, and open loop mode.
So... in OBD-II logic, as soon as a STFT becomes a LTFT, any MAF tuning is useless.
This is why you see people with newer (OBD-II) cars complaining that the ECU tunes changes out. That's because it does LoL!
If you use the Platinum plugs, you'll probably find that they'll last a lot longer (100,000Kms I think).
Also known as the same lifespan as the OEM plugs... Which are still the cheapest NGK or denso units avalible (Most dealers use NGK's). And they still last 60,000 miles. :\
actualy i frist read about this for the 22r's back in the early 90's ... since it been that long there not a chance in hell of finding back that site .... but this as been done since prolly the 80's to lots of cars
3 clicks, my car no longer gurrgles (possibly from too rich)on 2nd. Regained alot of initial torque and feels smoother on second gear. Keep em coming brandon!