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Just found your site, great place you've got here I'm not a pro but looking forward too participate.
I have a dilemma, my Camry 1997 has 140,000 km and the timing belt is overdue.
The dilemma originates in the fact that the dealer insist on changing the perfectly working water pump while he's at it, so I wondered if I could do it myself.
Fairly good at mechanics, I've always maintained my cars myself (brakes, lubes, coolant.....). It would be my first crack at changing a TB.
My questions for you are ; - is there reason for chamging the WP? Is there a flaw on these ?
- is there a procedure somewhere to help me change the belt ?
- do I need to buy bearings or seals to do the job ?
- I read somewhere that you have to partially lift the motor to have acces to the belt tensionner, is that a fact ?
Just found your site, great place you've got here I'm not a pro but looking forward too participate.
I have a dilemma, my Camry 1997 has 140,000 km and the timing belt is overdue.
The dilemma originates in the fact that the dealer insist on changing the perfectly working water pump while he's at it, so I wondered if I could do it myself.
Fairly good at mechanics, I've always maintained my cars myself (brakes, lubes, coolant.....). It would be my first crack at changing a TB.
My questions for you are ; - is there reason for chamging the WP? Is there a flaw on these ?
- is there a procedure somewhere to help me change the belt ?
- do I need to buy bearings or seals to do the job ?
- I read somewhere that you have to partially lift the motor to have acces to the belt tensionner, is that a fact ?
Thanks for your input, greatly appreciated.
Daniel.
Changing the water pump will gert a mixed review here, I would change it on you next belt, 240,000 km. But to change it now represents about $125 CDN if you DIY.
You may want to change the crank seal and tensioner spring, about $10 CDN in parts.
You don't have to lift the motor.
Search the camry thread using "timing belt" and you'll find a lot of info.
The timing belt is about $40 CDN for a DIY and the job is about 2.5 hours, but first time it might take you 5 hours.
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85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
Once you pull the belt down and have everything out of the way jsut make sure the water pump is not seeping and that it spins freely and doenst feel like th bearings are going out on it. Make sure you check the tensioner and idler pulley for the same thing. While you are at it like was suggested go ahead and make sure the cam, crank and oil pump seals arent leaking. If everything looks and sounds good then lut the belt on and go about your way. The Things I have mentioned are things that you can replace to prevent from having to do it sometime between now changing the belt and the next time it is scheduled for it. You would hate to put the belt on and then 6 months down the road have to tear it all down again to replace seals and tensioners and water pumps.
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Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
the reason why you change the water pump at the same time is cause it not only is an absolute bitch to get at, but you'll also have to reset the timing (cause it's on the tbelt) and it going out really sucks. because not only do you risk head gasket/other damage, but your tbelt will be ruined, and you'll need another. it's good prevent-maintenance.
Use a bolt on type puller to remove the crank pulley. Do not use a jaw type puller.
And while your at it, replace the other 2 belts (accessory belts) too.
Quote:
do I need to buy bearings or seals to do the job ?
Do what Cyorke said and check the seals + idler pullies.
Replace the tensioner spring. Its a $3 part.
Quote:
I read somewhere that you have to partially lift the motor to have acces to the belt tensionner, is that a fact ?
No.
On the 5S-FE you have to remove the left side mount. Support the motor by the edge of the oil pan or inbetween the engine and tranny. Use a floor jack and a block of wood.
Not sure about a 1MZ-FE though. I've never changed a timing belt on one of these.
Thats how (air impact wrench) I always remove that bolt.
That bolt is the timing belt pulley bolt on the end of the crankshaft.
My question is this. Is that bolt a normal thread or does it have a reverse thread?
I'm dealing with my daughter's '92 Camry, with the 4 cylinder engine, replacing the timing belt. I've broken two 1/2 ----> 3/8 adapters trying to remove that bolt with my breaker bar (aptly named). It won't turn in either direction. I'm a bit concerned about snapping the bolt also. I'm trying to get access to an impact wrench, but have had no luck yet.
That bolt is the timing belt pulley bolt on the end of the crankshaft.
My question is this. Is that bolt a normal thread or does it have a reverse thread?
Actually its the bolt for the crank pulley.
Its normal thread.
Quote:
I'm dealing with my daughter's '92 Camry, with the 4 cylinder engine, replacing the timing belt. I've broken two 1/2 ----> 3/8 adapters trying to remove that bolt with my breaker bar (aptly named). It won't turn in either direction.
Ditch the adapters and use a 1/2" drive socket. You need to get some torque on that bolt to break it loose.
Make sure you keep the flywheel or flexplate from turning. Otherwise all your going to do is spin the crank pulley around.
on the DIY timing belt change. in 3 weeks my car will be at the dealership having this done... I'm too afraid to touch such important parts of my car being the year model it is.
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