Mr.Alternator.com

[OneLung]

i ordered a 150 amp alternator from mr.alternator and i just recently recieved it in the mail. Well i installed it and everything was all good, but like 4 days wen the car would idle the rpms would drop a little bit, the car would rattle hard, and the battery light would come on. so, i went out and bought a new battery, but it was still doing it, so i put in my old alternator and now everything works fine. is there any extra parts or anything for the higher amp alternator to work succesfuly??

[karazy]

You shouldn't need anything extra. You may have recieved a bad alt. Take it to autozone or equivalent to get it tested.

[oibone781]

I say this to everyone, don't mess with Mr. Alternator. There alternators are horrible. Your car as to be about 2000rpms for you to get anywhere near that 150amp. Which means at idle it is putting out equal to the stock alternator. Down here in New Orleans there is a shop called Star Auto Electric, they rebuilt my stock alternator for 180amps for 250 or less. Don't mess with mr. alt. plus i went through hell just to get a refund..

[Keep]

You've already gotten a few good answers but i'll give my $.02.

First of all, if you dont know the theory behind alternator design and *flashing the alternator* dont even bother reading on.

I've had some customers buy aftermarket High output alternators that had different pinouts fot the internal regulator (some customers bought internally regulated alternators when their cars already were externally regulated)

Most cars flash the core when you start your engine, its done automatically. either controlled by logic from the ECU or straight from a hotwire on the battery terminal bus.

The problem with most aftermarket alternators is their pinouts and internal operation for flashing the field of the stator windings. Which leads to complete inefectiveness of current induction at low rotational speeds.

I advise customers with old hot rods to flash their alternators before installing them, (just in case the flash from the factory has worn off, it only takes 7 volts roughly) and because their electrical systers dont have the automatic logic to do so on original startup.

However if the supplyer will warantee their part and give you a new one, do that for their salesmen probably have no idea of the internal theory behind the operation anyway.

[SmokingTires]

Originally Posted by OneLung

i ordered a 150 amp alternator from mr.alternator and i just recently recieved it in the mail. Well i installed it and everything was all good, but like 4 days wen the car would idle the rpms would drop a little bit, the car would rattle hard, and the battery light would come on. so, i went out and bought a new battery, but it was still doing it, so i put in my old alternator and now everything works fine. is there any extra parts or anything for the higher amp alternator to work succesfuly??

You went out and baught a battery just because the light came on???


That doesn't mean your battery is bad! It means CHECK your battery. You just wasted $90!

[Tercel GTS]

Ready for some sincere advice? The rattle noise you heard was most likely the belt tensioner. The true higher current alternators create a much stronger resistance than the factory unit did and may wear out a used tensioner quickly. I'd reinstall the unit and watch for this.
I've heard several people claim that stock sized alternators were rebuilt to 180-250 amps for quite some time. I rebuild alternators for a living and have yet to see anything close. To relate the difficulty that'd be like saying you got 800ft/lbs of torque from a 4AGE and it gets 40mpg also.
Stock ND alternators are under rated. A 60a can normally make 80amps, 100a can make 140.... I'm going to get slightly technical here. The regulator that comes in a standard ND at full demand can only supply 5amps of field power. Partially this is due to the internal workings and part due to the regulator and alternator centralizing themselves from the remainder of the charging system under full load. With the regulator inside and hooked to a stator terminal the regulator can see the voltage as being too high during a spike load and actually power down. The way I correct this problem is to run an external regulator and one that can drive more than 5amps. My preferance is a ford type that is built by a company called Transpo. ( http://transpo-usa.com ) This style of regulator has 3 power inputs and one output so it can sense the voltage in one location while using a higher voltage feed to salvage the field power from. The particular units I use can supply 14amps of field power consistantly. ND rotors can pull 9 amps at 14 volts.
Stop by any other auto electric shop and request an amperage test while on the vehicle. Many will test for free while you watch for their own curiosity.

[userlain]

Originally Posted by SmokingTiresV6

You went out and baught a battery just because the light came on???


That doesn't mean your battery is bad! It means CHECK your battery. You just wasted $90!

Being an asshole is hilarious on the internet!


Seriously, quit being a dick

[Skell]

well would the same be true for a replacement starter then? (I got a 4cyl camry) I heard the V6 starters are rated at 14 or something, while the stock 4Cyclinder starters are rated at 10 or so.. some say if I got the 'stronger V6' starter itd help out in cold weather etc???? would the same logic for alternators apply to starters? should I just get another 4cyclinder starter????