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So I decided to make a new thread covering my manual transmission swap. I'll update this thread with a new post every time I come across something worthy, or if I take any pics, instead of waiting until it's all done. Perhaps this could be a 'STICKY' when it's done, as it may help others in there swaps.
For those that don't know, the swap is from an A540E 4 Speed Auto to a E153 5 Soeed Manual on a 2VZ-FE V6, 1988 Toyota Camry.
I have now successfully completed a swap from A140E to a 5 speed manual. I am actually at the stage where my completely rebuilt engine is going to be started for the first time tommorrow, the flywheel is a perfect fit, so long as the flywheel you get has the same number of bolts, as I found out, but is is an easy conversion, good luck.
Hey man! Yeah, ill be getting the flywheel soon i hope. Easy conversion, perhaps for the A140E (meaning you have a 4 cylinder) because we have plenty of 5 speed 4 Cyls here in Aus. Mine is a V6 however, so it's not at "straight forward" as swapping parts over!
Thanks mate, hope everything goes well for your car tomorrow.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
yeah it should be good. I am an apprentice mechanic (did you say you were aussie?) I'm in Bridgetown, WA, anyway being an apprentice I have access to a huge amount of TAFE librarys and books and stuff, and my boss at work, so feel welcome to pick my brain about anything. For me, the small power difference between the 3S-FE and the V6 wasnt enough for me to go to the extra expense of a new engine, just rebuild this one. good luck
* To convert the brake pedal from the larger auto one to the smaller manual one, you do not have to remove the entire assembly!! Removal of just the arm is possible by removing the the rod and R clip from the booster piston arm, and removing the nut and bolt running through the brake pedal arm.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
My clutch pedal and master cylinder are in and working!
This is not to be taken lightly!! As the process involved removing half the dashboard just to see where it had to go!!! After a long invloved process of making sure the holes are correctly aligned, it all went together.
Some points to note.
* There was a cutout on the firewall - engine side - for the master cylinder. No holes where there however.
* There was a perforated section of insulation on the firewall - interior side - showing the general location of where the clutch pedal bracket had to go. Once again, no holes were predrilled.
* A few measurements had to be taken from reference points to allow good alignment. There are 3 bolts holes at the top of the dashboard where the pedal bracket can bolt to. I have no idea why there are 3, perhaps for different designs of bracket. However in this case, I chose the middle hole, which was slightly elevated above the other two. By eye, this looked to be the correct position. Holes where marked through the bracket using a pencil. The larger hole for the master cylinder pushrod/rubber was cutout using a 32mm carbon cast metal hole saw. The other two where simply drilled out with 8mm drill bits. After a bit of "manipulation" it all went together well.
* The pedal arm is VERY difficult to get in AFTER you bolt the pedal box up. Best to attatch the arm before you install the pedal box.
* The spring return (on our Aussie Models anyways...) can't be installed without the master cylinder being connected to the pedal arm. A bit of fiddling is required to get the clips on and off once everythings bolted up.
I also rewired all of my devices and cleaned up under the dash while I was there. Looking neat as now!
Some pics.
The clutch Master Cylinder bolted up to the firewall.
The clutch pedal in!
The general alignment of the three pedals.
The car as it sits now, reading for the suspension xmembers etc to be removed and tranny dropped!
Does anyone know what size socket the driveshaft/hub nuts are? There very big, above 28mm.
Thanks
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
Yep, that's the right size. When you're getting one be sure to check out the needed depth.
__________________
85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
I was surprised how easy it was to install the clutch pedal. I too found the perforated insulation and the cutout, and just drilled the holes. The alignment didnt have to be perfect either I found. The bolts were perfect. The gear linkage was good too.
Thanx mate, all worked out well. They weren't as tight as I thought they'd be.
Driveshafts, xmembers, mounts, cable, electrical connections, cooling lines are all out and off. Just need to take the tranny-engine bolts off and the top mount and where away!
Ill take pics of the parts later when I clean them up.
Is there an way to tell if the driveshafts are the correct one for the tranny? I put my auto ones into the manual box and they seem to engage perfectly. The "slot" in, the covers on the axle cover the rubbers on the tranny, and when turning the driveshaft, it turns the gear inside..so is there a way to tell if it's the "right" fit?
Thanks.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
Is there an way to tell if the driveshafts are the correct one for the tranny? I put my auto ones into the manual box and they seem to engage perfectly. The "slot" in, the covers on the axle cover the rubbers on the tranny, and when turning the driveshaft, it turns the gear inside..so is there a way to tell if it's the "right" fit?
Thanks.
I think the mating splines are all the same. It's the length of the half axle that is different. You want the right length half-axle so the tulip joint can accomodate the half axle in/out movement as the strut/suspension fully compresses and expands.
__________________
85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
Ah ic. Well, the driveshaft are out of my car as is, so the only thing to check for then is the spline length. As i said before, it feels good, slots in no probs. If i can use these then thats great because then I dont have to get the larger ones mated to my driveshafts.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
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