Car audio dillemma

[M_O_S]

I got 3 nice 15'' rockford fosgate rfd2215 subs and I need to know what amp or what amps are the best choice to power them. They are pretty powerful, they consume about 600 W each.

When I mean what amps I mean: 2 channel, multi channel, mono.

Anyone with some knowledge of this, please help me. :-?

[OU8MYDUST]

Whoa! Thats a lot of power! I think the best bet is three monos, one for each. It will be slightly less straining then a multi-, or a couple of 2-channels. 600W RMS or Max each? DVC or SVC? Plus your gonna need a cap! Are you upgrading the alt? Mo' info needed.

[M_O_S]

How 'bout 1 1500 W mono for all 3, I don't know much bout audio, but I though that wioth a single 1500 W mono there would be 300 w to spare for the other speakers and the stereo...

[M_O_S]

Here's the info: 156-600 watts RMS, DVC (Dual Voice Coil), I got them for 200 US each!!!

[M_O_S]

Originally Posted by OU8MYDUST

Are you upgrading the alt? Mo' info needed.

You mean the alternator right???

If the answer is yes, then No I'm not upgrading, a friend of mine is an electrical engineer, he tells me that another option would be to install power inverter batteries in the trunk to help the car battery with the extra power strain.

What do you think?

[OU8MYDUST]

Let me get back to ya. I know a guy that works at a car audio place, I'll ask him tonight. I post later.

[M_O_S]

I'm gonna create the wickedest most cruel car soundsystem where I live, since I got the 15'' subs I want to know what speakers would go good with them: 6''x9'' 2 ways, 3 ways of 4 ways?

[OU8MYDUST]

Originally Posted by M_O_S

I'm gonna create the wickedest most cruel car soundsystem where I live, since I got the 15'' subs I want to know what speakers would go good with them: 6''x9'' 2 ways, 3 ways of 4 ways?

Stick to what you have now, 6.5 in front and 6x9 in back. Thats fine.Get something with high wattage, preferably Alpines. Find a powerful multi-channel amp to back them up and you'll be fine. You have to enough power for the highs and mids, or your bass will drowned out any real "music".

[M_O_S]

Do you recommend rocford fosgate amps, speakers, etc?

PS: Thanks for the info.

[rpj1984]

Rockford Fosgate makes quality stuff all around...whether it be subs, amps, or speakers. I suggest going for 3-way 6.5s in the doors and 2-way 6X9s in the back. If you get 3-ways or 4-way 6x9 you will here more vocals from the back then in the front. If you really want to upgrade the vocals get a component set and run a 4-channel amp to your highs and mids. This makes a huge difference. With regards to the subs... take OU8MYDUST advice and go with 3 seperate mono amps..this will put a lot less strain on you car and the amps will perform a whole lot better.

[M_O_S]

Originally Posted by rpj1984

Rockford Fosgate makes quality stuff all around...whether it be subs, amps, or speakers. I suggest going for 3-way 6.5s in the doors and 2-way 6X9s in the back. If you get 3-ways or 4-way 6x9 you will here more vocals from the back then in the front. If you really want to upgrade the vocals get a component set and run a 4-channel amp to your highs and mids. This makes a huge difference. With regards to the subs... take OU8MYDUST advice and go with 3 seperate mono amps..this will put a lot less strain on you car and the amps will perform a whole lot better.

What component system do you suggest?

Is it possible to get 6 tweeters in the front (3 on each door on top of the speakers)?

Can I put 4 6''x9''s in the back instead of 2?

[M_O_S]

How about this one for the front??

FNQ2614 - 6.5" Fanatic Q Component System w/ 2-way Crossovers & Grilles

Proprietary molded ABS baskets on midrange
3-layer glass fiber composite cone
Rubber surround
1.25" multilayered copper voice coil
0.75" (20mm) aluminum tweeter dome with silk surround
3 versitle tweeter mounting systems: surface, flush, wedge
24dB/octave symmetrical lowpass/highpass
Optical tweeter protection

Can I double this??

I mean 2 component systems in the front, 2 of the preceeding?

[M_O_S]

This is what I got:

Three-->

RFR3115 - 15" POWER DVC SUB W/ 4" VOICE COIL(2OHM X 2)

FIBERlock treated paper cone with Santoprene™ rubber surround
frequency response 20-400 Hz
power range 150-1,000 watts RMS
peak power 2,000 watts
sensitivity 89 dB SPL
dual voice coil design (two 2-ohm coils)
top mount depth 8-3/16"
sealed box volume 2.5-3.5 cubic feet
ported box volume 2.5-3.0 cubic feet

and 1--->

POWER bd1000.1 - AMPLIFIER

1000 watts x 1 at 2 Ohms
stereo, bridged mono or Tri-Way output
Class bd technology
Remote Punch Bass
SubSonic Filter
selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
50-amp fuse and fuse holder required
14-7/16"W (10-7/8" without endcaps) x 2-7/16"H x 9-7/8"D
STARDUST class bd ultra high efficiency topology
TOPAZ- Ground kill zone
MEHSA-More Power, Less Heat
DSM- Discrete Surface Mount
nova technology
Pass-thru RCA
4 AWG PWR/GRD
Adjustable 24dB LP crossover
Remote Variable Punch Bass

What am I missing???

[Luc]

Originally Posted by M_O_S

You mean the alternator right???

If the answer is yes, then No I'm not upgrading, a friend of mine is an electrical engineer, he tells me that another option would be to install power inverter batteries in the trunk to help the car battery with the extra power strain.

What do you think?

Does your EE friend know that the alternator needs to charge BOTH batteries as well when the car is running, needing a battery isolator? The stock alternator only puts out at most 85-amps to run the entire car ONLY, and if you want to use a 1500-watt amp to power only the subs, you will need more than just extra batteries.

Luc

[M_O_S]

U got a point...

I'll figure something out, anyway he didn't explain EVERYTHING to me (my friend) it was just a posibility.

Anymore advice and/or info will be greatly appreciatted...