Fooling the ECM - sharing 1 good knock sensor for 2 ECM inputs

[Vibroseis]

Is it possible to share 1 good knock sensor (LH bank) feed to the ECM with the other feed (RH bank) that is now defective? CEL, code =55.

Could I just cut the RH knock sensor feed and instead splice in the LH knock sensor feed @ the ECM?

Currently, I don't have the time or the cash to get the bad knock sensor replaced. Would sharing one good knock sensor in this fashion work?

If so, does anyone know what are the connectors for both knock sensors @ the ECM. I would like to verify this info with my Haynes manual before starting anything.

Car: '93 Camry LE V6, 3VZ-FE -engine.

Thx for your help!

[Tony the Tiger]

Yup, it should work. It worked for my 1MZ-FE engine which I used one knock sensor for both sensor wires.

[Phi]

As Tony already confirmed, ppl over at SG have had success doing the exact trick you're considering on the 1MZ-FE

Here's a good discussion they had about the topic. CLICK HERE

Just to re-iterate...the discussion is about 1MZ-FE, but it might still be useful. Good luck!

[Vibroseis]

Tony, Phi, thx a lot dudes!

This trick worked for my 93' 3VZ-FE.
No more CEL and no pwr loss felt during acceleration.

I measured the resistance on the defective sensor wire and it was giving ~ 2.5M Ohms to gnd.

The good sensor was reading infinity OHMS to gnd.

Just as an FYI for others who want to try this, the RH bank knock sensor is the #1 knock sensor described in the Haynes manual. The LH bank knock sensor is the #2.

[ag6286]

im also have knock sensor problems......wer are the wires for them so i can test which ones are bad with an ohm meter?????

[Vibroseis]

ag6286, the wires connect to the ECM via the 16 pin connector - i think it's the 2nd connector - counting from bottom to top.

Unplug the connector and hold it with the terminals facing you. The upper left most pin is pin 1. Counting right side from this point, pin 6 is for RH bank - knock sensor #1.

Directly below this pin = pin 14 for LH bank - knock sensor #2.

***Note: the knock sensor wires are easy to detect since they are in a clear (transparent) insulation.

To reach the ECM you have to remove the glove box and a plastic panel underneath.

With the glove box out of the way, the ECM connectors are readily accessable, infact I didn't even have to unbolt the ECM. Simply, gently unplug the 16 pin connect and fish it downward where you may find more room to splice the wires you need.

Hope that helps.

[ag6286]

thanks man, ill try that tom or sumthing if i can get my hands on an ohm meter, wut resistance should be read for a working/connected knock.....both my knock sensors are BRAND NEW and replaced w/my engine, probably forgot to hook one up or sumthin.

should be 0 ohm, about...correct?

[LUVLEXUS101]

Could you guys help me out with some instructions on how to exactly remove the glove box? I also have check engine code 55, is there any way to test which sensor is bad without cutting or splicing any wires first?
I have a 93 camry with a 3vz-fe motor

[ASG14]

^ Code 55 is the #1 sensor.

It;s a bitch to change, but I can go it fast at this point, lol. I blew knock sensor #4 last week. Ugh, I hate changing them.

[LUVLEXUS101]

Hey can someone clarify this for me

the top left pin would be #1
the top right pin would be #8

the bottom left pin would be #9
the bottom right pin would be #16?

I just want to be sure about this.
Im guessing the top would be the aprt with the connecting tab ya?

[2wickedtoyz]

bump the link for solaraguy.org is dead
and i need to do this mod

[ASG14]

^ Didn't I do it when I installed the damn SC on your car????? I thought I relocated it?!?!?!?!?

[2wickedtoyz]

no

[BandidoLenny]

Originally Posted by Vibroseis

Is it possible to share 1 good knock sensor (LH bank) feed to the ECM with the other feed (RH bank) that is now defective? CEL, code =55.

Could I just cut the RH knock sensor feed and instead splice in the LH knock sensor feed @ the ECM?


Car: '93 Camry LE V6, 3VZ-FE -engine.

I did this exact thing a few days ago and it worked like a charm!
No more CEL and my timing is back to normal. Now I just gotta hope that the other knock sensor never goes out... lol.

[zorcy]

Will this work? I also have the error for the knock sensor. I see there is a bolt knock sensor. I am thinking of bolting it to the block and connecting to the old connector. It may not have the exact resistance to knocking, but should give some active use. Since the connectors come out under the intake manifold, can we jump them there to share if we cannot use the other sensor?