How to guide, clean IAC Valve 56k, be patient! BIG PICT

[dstlaurent]

Here how to dismount valve IAC of a 3VZ-FE. This handling is more complete because one of screw capeau did not want to unscrew itself normally. The goal of all that is to eliminate a jerked acceleration when the engine is cold.


1, locate the IAC Valve





2, unplug all hoses and vacuum. be careful, there is a line of coolan on this valve. Then made this handling only if the engine is cold.



3, unplug the "power" of the valve


4, Unscrew the two principals screw


5, remove the valve



6, There is all the material needed ... 3 new screw, and the gasket (from toyota dealer for 5CAN$)


7, Here the culprit of this handling more complete than has the practice


8, Unassembling the valve




9, Lubricate screws it without end after having removed the rotor. I did it with a mixture of white grease and WD-40



10, Clean this part of the valve ...


11, Close it again


12, Position back all.



Start the engine. Personally, it has to stawl 4 times before having a normal idle speed. Then it has stawl on a red light... and after all was perfect. then I concluded that its took a normal cycle of functioning so that the valve takes again its function correctly

[Phi]

Pictures don't work Try using www.imageshack.us or the Gallery (http://www.toyotanation.com/photos/uploadphoto.php)

[dstlaurent]

i think it's ok now ... thanks!

[Knailgun]

ahhhh...you made my t1 lag a sec..... nice pics and a good diy

[BlueFusion6851]

nice!!! i'll have to do this cleaning thing sometime on my 3vz, its beginning to lag in accel... a LOT

[Nuke209]

oooh, how about the 5sfe

[dstlaurent]

i don't know about the 5sfe ... and for the 1MZ-FE, the valve is under the intake ... and not on the side ...

[Atv02]

WD-40 is a penetrant and solvent, NOT a lubricant. You can use WD-40 or Gasoline to clean the nastiest of grease and grime, off your hands, or anything. WD-40 is petroleum based.

Using WD-40 on high quality Japanese Double Shielded Roller Ball bearing, or any bearing, will effectively ‘wash’ out and contaminate any remaining grease and leave lubrication in its place that will not last for any significant amount of time, premature bearing failure will be the result.

Many precautionary and procedural steps must be taken when it comes to bearings to ensure that you do not damage them. Some bearings are installed in clean rooms that you do not touch with your bare hands once removed from packaging. There are many books on bearings alone.

My best opinion would be to leave the bearings alone. If you try and re-lubricate them they might last for a little while, but failure is guaranteed. You also run the risk of the WD-40 soaking into the electronics on the valve. You can turn the bearing with your fingers and if you feel any rough spots or if it spins very loosely, (lack of better way to describe it) a lot of wobble, they should be replaced. If you do not feel anything and they turn smoothly, leave them alone, and don’t drop it or hit them.
Good Luck

[dicespice]

dstlaurent,


Thanks for the write up, I just did this today, so sorry for the Bump!

Hey do you remember which washer went where? I pulled mine apart today and they both came out at the same time, onto the work bench.

I have the flat one and the spring loaded one, not sure if the spring loaded one when on the bearing side or the flat one.

OR if you know where I can find an exploded view. I have a 93 Lexus ES300/Toyota Camry.

Having fun with it RUNNING RICH! I need to put an ECM in it but right now, I'm doing the other low cost maintenance.

Thanks in advance,

dicespice

[71Corolla]

IIRC, the spring washer goes in first, then the flat washer. In other words, the flat washer will be against the bearing. Also make sure your two O-rings are still in place.

[dicespice]

But I will check for them and see if they are still seated.

Thanks for looking out!

[Nark]

Originally Posted by Atv02

WD-40 is a penetrant and solvent, NOT a lubricant. You can use WD-40 or Gasoline to clean the nastiest of grease and grime, off your hands, or anything. WD-40 is petroleum based.

Using WD-40 on high quality Japanese Double Shielded Roller Ball bearing, or any bearing, will effectively ‘wash’ out and contaminate any remaining grease and leave lubrication in its place that will not last for any significant amount of time, premature bearing failure will be the result.

Many precautionary and procedural steps must be taken when it comes to bearings to ensure that you do not damage them. Some bearings are installed in clean rooms that you do not touch with your bare hands once removed from packaging. There are many books on bearings alone.

My best opinion would be to leave the bearings alone. If you try and re-lubricate them they might last for a little while, but failure is guaranteed. You also run the risk of the WD-40 soaking into the electronics on the valve. You can turn the bearing with your fingers and if you feel any rough spots or if it spins very loosely, (lack of better way to describe it) a lot of wobble, they should be replaced. If you do not feel anything and they turn smoothly, leave them alone, and don’t drop it or hit them.
Good Luck

I wished someone told me this long time ago. I got this bright idea when rebuilt my Mazda long time ago. I figured if I spray all the electrical terminals FI, ECT, etc., it would prevent moisture and be easier to remove them later. As it turn out the car wouldn't start because of WD40 I'd sprayed on earlier. Eventually, after few days of diagnosis and hair pulling I got it working by clean each socket with tps cleaner.
My 2nd event on WD40 is when I use it to lubricate ext water pump for my fish tank. Pump has oiling hole for bearing so I use WD40. About 2-3 mos later the pump seized up, bummer.

Oh! the IAC write up look good. I didn't know it has that many parts inside. This is same as on mine '86 cressida. I think this is a much better IAC than in a modern car.

[fenixus]

nice DIY, definitely should be sticked (if not already there)

I may have to check the IAC on my 1mz-fe after Winter, this year I get surprisingly low cold start speeds, no more than 1,600 at initial burst and quickly dropping (while dead cold still) to 1,300-1,400rpm ... I think it's supposed to sit in higher RPM for much longer than it does.

good point about avoiding WD-40 on bearings! If they turn smoothly I would leave them alone or simply replace the whole IAC if anything with it is wrong to start with ...