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How-To Guide: Struts and Spring Install 56k warning
[edit] This DIY is correct (with minor differences) for toyotas with Macpherson Struts ... the only difference for the gen4 Camry's is that the front sway bar connects to the front struts via short endlinks as does the rear of both the gen3 and 4 Camry's ~ bm
Well this is a very non in depth guide. Its just the front suspension too. I gave up taking pics, too tired. But its almost the same as the fronts so if you do the fronts, you can do the backs no problem.
Things Needed
Full Set of Socket Wrenches, Breaker bar, and sockets rangind from 12mm+
Torque Wrench
Spring compressors
Liquid Wrench (STRONGLY SUGGEST THIS TO SAVE A HEADACHE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Struts/Shocks
Springs
Few friends, especially if its your first time.
Jacks and Jack Stands
=================================== I am not responsible for anything that goes
wrong.. blah blah blah.
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TORQUE WRENCH SPECIFICATIONS
Get your car in a nice shady spot, its hot as hell out
Jack up the car, put it on jack stands and take off the wheels.
Take off your brake line nut. 12mm
Set it to the side and focus on the 2 knuckle to strut bolts. I think these were 22mm. Might want to use liquid wrench.
I recommend at this time take your scissor jack and hold up the knuckle/rotor assembly
Take out the 2 bolts. The rotor assembly will fall a little, but have the jack support it.
Focus on taking off these 3 nuts on the strut mount. Also you might want to loosen up the strut nut so its easier to get off later on.
Once its off the strut assembly will fall down. Guide it out and set it to the side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dysk8forlife
supercharger whine>girlfriend whine
Last edited by BLUEMEANIE; 07-07-2005 at 09:04 AM.
Look at and take note on how the assmebly looks (yea those are not stock springs)
Compress your springs ( I did not need to with my intrax but if yours are stock, YOU SHOULD DO IT TO AVOID INJURY!) Go to autozone, and rent them. After the compressors are on, take off this bolt ( I think its 19mm, cane someone comfirm this?)
Once its off you will have this
Grab your new struts and take all the parts off the old struts and put them on the new one exactly how you got it
At this time you may want to take off the strut mount from the seat and pack the bearing with grease ( think its only 95 and 96 years)
Place it all on
Then if needed use compressors to compress the spring, once again I did not need to. Put strut mount on. Arrows point to the fenders.
Slide it back up, move the knuckle/rotor around to get it all together again.
Put the nuts on the strut mount, finger tight for now.
Get the knuckle into the strut, push, kick, slide, whatever, just get it in!!!
This is what it will look like in.
Tighten the bolts and nuts to specs, do not forget to put the brake line back in!
Tighten the bolts on the strut mount. Put the wheel back on. Lower it on the ground. If it is on jackstands do the other side too before lowering it on the ground. Once on the ground, tighten the bolts on the strut mount and on the strut, so all 4 bolts are good and tight.
Now for the back. Its the same procedure, but remove the backseat and rear deck to access the strut mounts. Follow the same instructions as above. Only difference is that the rear has a "end link" connecting from the sway bar to the strut. Take it off first and do as above.
When you are done make sure all bolts are tighten to specifications. Use the 2 pictures on the first post.
Not much in depth but some info is better than no info.
Any questions I would be glad to help.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dysk8forlife
supercharger whine>girlfriend whine
Last edited by BLUEMEANIE; 07-07-2005 at 08:54 AM.
If you don't know how to properly use a spring compressor your an idiot for trying
And if you don't replace your strut mounts, you better mark your mounts to make sure they go back in the same way.
Oh, and if you torque the bolts down with a straight socket, on be half of every mechanic out there... You should have your ass beat! It makes it damn near impossible to un-torque it later when you have the car up on a rack (alignment rack).
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'88 Toyota MR2 N/A - Sold
'99 Miata Sport - Sold
'85 Corolla GT-S - Sold
'02 MR2 Spyder - C-Stock car
Sooo.. in other words.. i should have someone else do it for me?
To have it done correctly, and safely? Yes. Even my spring compressor at work is some-what scary. If that thing launches, someones getting hurt bad.
And if you don't torque it down with a swivel sockect (because that's what we have to use to break the bolts loose when it's on the rack), then it is torqued too hard to come off, and we have to go through an assload more work.
As far as speed goes, I'd have a shop do them.
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'88 Toyota MR2 N/A - Sold
'99 Miata Sport - Sold
'85 Corolla GT-S - Sold
'02 MR2 Spyder - C-Stock car
Also there is the issue of the Stabilizer links. When we do them at the shop, we almost always replace them. It just protocal. So if you hear a noise after they are re-installed, there is a good chance that's what the it is.
As for getting the stablilizers off, that's a whole other challange in itself. Often on cars with a good deal of miles, you don't be able to break the bolt loose because it will rotate inside the bushing. So the only solution is to heat it with a torch and then break it loose. But if you haven't been properly shown how to do it, you'll most likely burn the bushing.
Also a good tool to have with is an impact hammer. It will save you a lot of time in getting the 2 large bolts out. If you don't have access to a compressor, well then... sucks to be you
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'88 Toyota MR2 N/A - Sold
'99 Miata Sport - Sold
'85 Corolla GT-S - Sold
'02 MR2 Spyder - C-Stock car
Also a good tool to have with is an impact hammer. It will save you a lot of time in getting the 2 large bolts out. If you don't have access to a compressor, well then... sucks to be you
my dad has that from 15+ years ago and it has broken everything that came it's way actualy sometime faster than the air one. also we dont leave our air tank pluged in all the time since it has a small leak so this is great for quick jobs and we dont want to wait for the tank to refil (35gal tank)
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