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help with performance problems (not a 'car feels slow' thread)
i am having serious pick up problems with my ride...1st will 'feel' fine, 2nd is a bit slow, and 3rd is all hell, at around the 4300rpm mark, the car will LOOSE 200 or so rpm, WOT it doenst do this ALL the time.. sometimes it will jus tpick up slower sometimes it doenst do it at all but MOSt of the time it drops rpm or just goes plain too slow.
, i have NO IDEA why it does this, my only thing i can think of is my short ram intake has TOO MUCH flex after the afm. i dont know if this would be a problem or not though (i have rubber couplers that have bendy bends in them to let it bend lol)
ive also had a magnaflow 2.5" hi flow cat installed, but i doubt that is the problem.
maybe i broke something in the AFM?
ecu shit it self somewhere and needs to be reset?
i dont have any money right now to go back to the OE airbox set up so for now b4 i can do that to see if thats my problem... i was wondering if anyone could help...
if something went wrong for a bit with the cars ignition/electrical system would it cause this? because when i was working on teh car the ignitor or coil (im not sure whats what i n the engine bay) was making a buzzing noise as if something had shorted out
argh this really sucks
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Last edited by terrastrife; 07-18-2005 at 01:51 AM.
So, it did this after your SRI install? You say it happens (power loss) only sometimes? Also, you believe you heard buzzing from your ignition system. Hmmmm..
The weird thing is that it dies as you go further up in gears. I really want to blame the ignition. I say reset the EFI. Check your ignition system, maybe something did burn or get screwed up. But, why was it making the buzzing sound? Were you working on the ignition system? I doubt it could be a lose vaccum line or one you didn't connect. Hmmm...
yeah im guessin gignition something or other too.. i hav eno idea.. i was moving hte afm around and then it just started to crackle/buss for id say... 2 minutes or so, the can still runs, but i dunno if that wouldve done something...
wheres the efi fuse?
i gotta wait till i get paid so i can hit a wrecker and buy the stock air tube again.
i also had the cat isntalled since this problem started too.. erm... i dunno, it went buzzz, i pput the sri in, got the cat fitted, on teh way home it went like crap, it coudlve goen like crap on the way to the shop but i never gave it to see argh...
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
i would say check the coil for any cracks in it that might be shorting it out. also at night watch and see how it runs and look for and arcing from the wires or coil.
i'm also with the coil or fuel system.
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^ and leaving it that way!
I think that buzzing you heard was either the evap canister loosing pressure or the fuel line/fuel filter. Both run right under the air flow sensor(pretty sure anyway). Now I was not there when this happened to you , but I have heard this noise before on my car so thats my guess. Now if I am wrong and there is a problem whith this buzzing let me know because my car isnt working correctly right now.( I am the post right above this one "surging bogging...")
Well, I dunno about the V6 kids by my I4 has the EFI fuse on the right side of the engine bay. There are two fuse boxes, one of 'em has a big-ass brown fuse that you can remove. To reset the EFI system, I hear you take that off for five minutes. Others say 15, others say overnight, others say to remove the negative batter terminal. I do the EFI overnight or atleast as long as I can.
Well, I dunno about the V6 kids by my I4 has the EFI fuse on the right side of the engine bay. There are two fuse boxes, one of 'em has a big-ass brown fuse that you can remove. To reset the EFI system, I hear you take that off for five minutes. Others say 15, others say overnight, others say to remove the negative batter terminal. I do the EFI overnight or atleast as long as I can.
actually, the efi fuse is really smalle...it's either a 10 or 15 amp fuse...
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maybe that was the relay you pulled EFI MAIN it prolly said...
the EFI Fuse should be a 15A. i forget what color that is... and it only needs to be out for 10-15 seconds... enough for the capacitors in the system to discharge.
i'd try that 1st, then look at other things... im thinking its either you blew something in the AFM, or there is a vacuum line messed up. check the vac lines after you try the fuse thing. see if anything is unhooked or in the wrong spot.
it just sounds to me like you are not getting enough air for the fuel or not getting enough fuel for the air.. do you know if it is rich or lean? can you tell by the smell or any smoke that might be coming out, what color? what smell?
if you suspect the AFM, i'd let toysrme know about this... as much as i hate to say it, i think he knows AFMs pretty well..
i have a lot of travelling to do today.. ill put the afm a/f ration back to stock and reset the efi fuse. maybe i have compound problems? becuas ei know i have fuelling issues when im low on gas as well. guess maybe its teh cars ageing.
ill give everything suggested a go, short of taking it to a mechanic that is heck, i might bring it to a yota dealer (therye not too ass rape in australia as they are in the states)
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
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