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I just bought a 93 camry le with 203K mi about a week ago and I've been trying to figure out all of its issues and trying to get them resolved. When I put the car in reverse it wont initially begin to move I have to press the gas and wind up the engine to almost 2000rpm and then all of a sudden is throws back in a in a lunging manner. Any thoughts?
Also the car idles real rough and stalls occasionally. I tried to clean out the throttle body as best I could and I messed around with the IAC screw I got it to idle around 1000rpm while in drive which is the speed in which the car's idle doesnt bounce up and down. but in Neutral or park the engine goes up to about 1500 or so. I need help.
I've looked for other threads posted but nothing seems to work yet. so please dont give me shit about not checking first.
Thanks
Try the PCV valve to improve idle a bit. Im sure you have done the spark plugs and all the basic maintnance stuff right? and for the transmission theres nothing you can really do but do a pan drop and change filter to try to get it to shift alittle quicker. mine takes about one second to go into 1st gear. But yours sound like the previous owner tried to power break going backwards and/or slammed into reverse while still going foward.
well today I went to have the transmission filter and pan gasket replaced and I had new transmission fluid put in. Does toyota require that you use a toyota brand ATF? I took it to a quick job place where a friend of mine works he does good work and I trust him, but I'm worried that they used an fluid that isnt specified by toyota. It drives a little better but reverse still shakes just not as much as before and the upshifts are smoother. what do you think it would take me to get it fixed and fixed right?
I'm ashamed to say I have yet to get plugs and wires done I figured the transmission was a bit more dire so I wanted to try and get that resolved first.
give the tranny more time for the fluid to mix in throughly like a few hndred mile and then in 3000 miles or your next motor oil change the fluid again but this time only the fluid, you should not have to drop the pan because there is a drain plug on there and fill it back up with about 3/12 quarts. The transmissions oil does not have to be toyota type it only needs to be Mercon III/ dexron to work properly. I use Valvoline Max life Mercon III/Dexron and it made it shift way better; you can bearly feel the shift when you accelarate slowly and steady. But for the bad reverse there might not be a cure but to replace the transmission. Oh is your tranny auto or manual?
also I might as well ask now. if I do have to eventually replace the transmission I havent seen as many transmissions on ebay as I have jdm engines. can anyone recommend a good place to start out. Also, how much should I expect to have a mechanic do it right?
also, for your tranny, try lucas trans.treatment, helped mine after i got it replaced with a 90K or so one. it helps clean, and lube, makes it shift even better. get someone to actually CHECK the tranny, to make sure its not electrical, or just a valve not opening right, or something minimal, when mine went, id shift into D but she'd shudder, and when i revved it to like 2500-ish or more, it would catch, and not gladly shift to second, past that it shifted fine. oh and duing this, my reverse worked close to fine. im in Va. so cant help you find somewhere, sorry.
amen on the slow dull auto man!! its just not the same.
__________________ Quote-Terrastrife: Axel the confusion specialist!
-1992 Camry V6 XLE- *3VZ-FE* (with a dead auto trans.) <SOLD! Newest addition- 1987 300zx Turbo! what a blast!
well I mean like are there good places on the web that anyone may have dealt with or have heard good things about as far as getting possibly a new transmission?
just make sure it has as few miles as possible. and it is a good idea to use the lucas stff, or something similar when you install it, cause it will shift a little bit hard at first.
__________________ Quote-Terrastrife: Axel the confusion specialist!
-1992 Camry V6 XLE- *3VZ-FE* (with a dead auto trans.) <SOLD! Newest addition- 1987 300zx Turbo! what a blast!
one question though, anyone with a gen 3, when accelerating quickly, it feels like 1st to 2nd shift is a little hard, like its a fairly large ratio change. anyone else feel this?
__________________ Quote-Terrastrife: Axel the confusion specialist!
-1992 Camry V6 XLE- *3VZ-FE* (with a dead auto trans.) <SOLD! Newest addition- 1987 300zx Turbo! what a blast!
one question though, anyone with a gen 3, when accelerating quickly, it feels like 1st to 2nd shift is a little hard, like its a fairly large ratio change. anyone else feel this?
Check the cable link that goes from the accelerator to the transmission too see if it needs adjusting and din't you say that the lucas stuff helped your tranny anyway?
oh it helped, but its like a quick acceleration, not a jolt. well also, the tranny was used, and had been sitting dry for awhile(dont know how long) so it helped recondition it.
__________________ Quote-Terrastrife: Axel the confusion specialist!
-1992 Camry V6 XLE- *3VZ-FE* (with a dead auto trans.) <SOLD! Newest addition- 1987 300zx Turbo! what a blast!
Transmission:
Also, if your trans shifts into reverse very hesitantly and roughly--
the service manual says "Harsh engagement from 'N'--> 'R'"
Check in this order:
1) Direct Clutch (C2)
2) 1st and reverse brake (B3)
3) No1 and No2 accumulator control valve
Definitions:
C2= connects input shaft and front and rear planetary sun gear
B3= prevents planetary carrier from turning either clockwise or counterclockwise
Your problem is most likely NOT electronic but mechanical.
This fix is not for the DIY. But i would suggest doing a trans flush and then using a conditioner. However, some will say that a flush will either finish your transmission off or add life to it. It is true, it can be a gamble. But change the fluid a couple of more times (over course of 200 miles) and then flush the system. There should be some marginal improvements. But the trans needs an overhaul. BTW, most trans shops will diagnose for free.
Stalling issue: You must disconnect and disassemble the ISC, off of the backside of the throttle body. The unit also has: an electrical connector (six pin), a PS Vacuum hose, two water by-pass hoses, and two air hoses. Remove the ISC from the car and take it apart, and use a brake fluid cleaner to make it like new.
-Adam
__________________ 1992 3VZ-FE with 218K Check her out
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