I got some instructions off TN (plus a few external sources) and was going to do a fuel filter change soon. This is what I composed .
All the best
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I remove the filter from the top of the engine compartment. You have to remove the air filter assembly to do this.
Make sure you have two open end wrenches to remove the filter. Use one wrench to hold the filter. Make sure the other wrench is a line wrench for the actual fuel line below. It looks different from a standard open end wrench.
It can be a little tricky to break the line fitting. The fitting is a different metal than the filter housing and over time they can stick together from the reaction of different metals.
What I did once I had it off was put a little anti-seize grease on the threads of the line fitting so the next time it wouldn't be such a pain to get off.
It is also a good idea to put anti-seize on the two bolts that hold the filter to the fender.
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Get a flare wrench, the kind that grabs with more than just 2 sides of the nut. Mine was in really tight and a regular wrench would have stripped the hell out of it. Remove the gas cap to release some line pressure, and remember to have a rag under the filter when you loosen it to catch dripping fuel. I replaced the fuel filter on my v6 without removing the airbox, but having it out would make the job a little smoother. Have a beer ready for when you finally finish, and good luck!
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for mine, if u were facing the engine bay the feul filter was on the right side (driver) just below/around teh air box. I need a 19 and 14mm to unscrew the bottom hard line, the 19 for support, and the 14 to unscrew. if perhaps it gets stripped, retighten then try again. make sure u have a bucket or somethign to catch the feul thats about to stream out the bottom, it will stop eventually. Next unscrew the top with i think its a 17mm w/an extension. Next, loosen the one bolt tensioner around the feul filter, if that gets all teh way loos but the filter has yet to budge unscrew one of the small screws attatching it to the bay and bend it a bit. once the filter is off, get the new one ready. put teflon tape around the hard feul line screw thing. Attatch the hard line FIRST, ther are 3 slight ridges on the feul filter that should align on the thing thats holding it, make sure thats somewhat lined up in the process. Also DONT tighten the hard line all the way yet. Next insert the filter into the holder and let it sit in there. Adjust to a 'comfotable' level for the hard line and tighten the bolts for the holder. Then attatch the feul line to the top of the filter tightly! Dont forget to replace the small metal o-ring things. Next finish tightening the hard line. Turn on the car, itll take a second or two, then check ur filter immediatly for leaking gas....if ther is, tighten up the bolts more where needed.........thats it.
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I almost stripped mine trying to get it off and this worked perfectly. Get yourself a set of flare nut wrenches, these are from Sears. If you put the flare nut wrench on the fuel line fitting and a regular open end wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter itself, you can pry the wrenches apart with a screwdriver. This info was relayed to me from Jim@ForeignAffairs. I can't remember what direction to turn, but I think it was toward the firewall. Jim told me what direction to turn but I can't check it since camryman.org went down.
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TIP: when u change the hard fuel line (bottom), if perhaps it gets stripped like mine did, retighten it and let it sit a minute. The lines should be either copper or bronze so they will reshape easily!
*If it is stripped beyond repair go to ur local lowes or home depot and get a 5/16" X 1/4" adapter (for 92-93 V-6's atleast), 1/4" side should be for a hose fitting and simply cut the old hard line where desired and clamp anew fuel hose (not just any ordanary High pressure hose,they will rot from the feul) atboth ends tightly.
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It is bolted to the wheel well behind the air filter housing. It is easy to change if you have small hands.
Before you disconnect any fuel lines, go under the rear seat - access the top of the gas tank, and disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection. Start the engine and let it idle until it dies, then shut off the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then follow the diagram below.
The fuel filter is removed physically by unbolting from the fender.
Use a tubing wrench (crows foot) instead of either an open-end wrench or adjustable jaw wrench to remove tubing connections. Use penetrating oil on the fitting first tp help remove it. They are soft metal and easily rounded off if you are not careful. Instead of a crows foot, a box-end wrench with a slot cut out of one end will work in a pinch.
Be careful not to twist the tubing when tightening or loosening a tubing fitting.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...FuelFilter.jpg
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remeber prime the engine once your finished...... not good to start it dry, turn the key in the ignition off to acc 3 times you will hear the pump start going do it once your twice and you good.