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Old 08-24-2005, 09:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Changing the Fuel Filter....

Hello,
I am new to this forum. I heard that it is very difficult changing the fuel filter on Camry's. Has anyone done this (on their own)? I do not have a Camry yet, but, am interested in getting one. I also wanted to know if the fuel filter design is the same for generations 3-5. Anyone?

I also understand that Camry's have engine sludge problems. How many of you out there have experienced this? Any of your opinions would be great and appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2005, 09:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome bud.

whoa...search each of those...many, many, many thorough discussions on those particular subjects. if you want to cheat, look up my profile and go down the list of the thread's i made replies to.

I you do your homework, it's easy to change the fuel filter, i'll tell you though you'll need some elbow grease. i'm not sure abou the same filters for all the gens.

the sludge is a whole different issue--in short abou tthat....proper maintenece and right oil, you'll avoid it.....what oil to avoid? lol...search and you 'll find out...some say it's the oil witht the same name as a religious faction of Protestants
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have changed my fuel filter and man it was a pain in the back, literaly. I had trouble taking out the bottom line so i used pressure pliers to force the screw out, I almost stripped it and i was close to replacing the whole line. But if you are going to do it I recomend you that you use the tool that i used, if not you can strip the line and that would be bad.

And for the sludge issues, that mainly applies to the camrys from 97-01, if you are getting a camry from one of those years it would be best to use Mobil 1 oil to prevent sludge buildup.
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey RingOnFumes How come you only have two pictures on your car domain page? I was looking at the camry's last week and found you there and i was like WTF only two pics of your car and two of duffy duck???????
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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lol..what do you want with a stock car?....well i guess i can add the cathode mod in there.
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
well i guess i can add the cathode mod in there.
I've already put some cold cathoded too and they do look nice in there,

Show off your sound system if you have one. and just show off the the whole car after you came from the car wash. that would make it look shinier on pictures Lol. So many poeple still show off their car even thought is is completly stock. Heck i would.

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Old 08-25-2005, 12:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i tried getting my fuel filter changed, but no luck, it wouldn't come out, it was really rusted, although if you have a car with lower mileage then it should be easier, but for me, mine staying haha, it's rusted, and fused to the car.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I got some instructions off TN (plus a few external sources) and was going to do a fuel filter change soon. This is what I composed .

All the best
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I remove the filter from the top of the engine compartment. You have to remove the air filter assembly to do this.


Make sure you have two open end wrenches to remove the filter. Use one wrench to hold the filter. Make sure the other wrench is a line wrench for the actual fuel line below. It looks different from a standard open end wrench.



It can be a little tricky to break the line fitting. The fitting is a different metal than the filter housing and over time they can stick together from the reaction of different metals.

What I did once I had it off was put a little anti-seize grease on the threads of the line fitting so the next time it wouldn't be such a pain to get off.


It is also a good idea to put anti-seize on the two bolts that hold the filter to the fender.

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Get a flare wrench, the kind that grabs with more than just 2 sides of the nut. Mine was in really tight and a regular wrench would have stripped the hell out of it. Remove the gas cap to release some line pressure, and remember to have a rag under the filter when you loosen it to catch dripping fuel. I replaced the fuel filter on my v6 without removing the airbox, but having it out would make the job a little smoother. Have a beer ready for when you finally finish, and good luck!

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for mine, if u were facing the engine bay the feul filter was on the right side (driver) just below/around teh air box. I need a 19 and 14mm to unscrew the bottom hard line, the 19 for support, and the 14 to unscrew. if perhaps it gets stripped, retighten then try again. make sure u have a bucket or somethign to catch the feul thats about to stream out the bottom, it will stop eventually. Next unscrew the top with i think its a 17mm w/an extension. Next, loosen the one bolt tensioner around the feul filter, if that gets all teh way loos but the filter has yet to budge unscrew one of the small screws attatching it to the bay and bend it a bit. once the filter is off, get the new one ready. put teflon tape around the hard feul line screw thing. Attatch the hard line FIRST, ther are 3 slight ridges on the feul filter that should align on the thing thats holding it, make sure thats somewhat lined up in the process. Also DONT tighten the hard line all the way yet. Next insert the filter into the holder and let it sit in there. Adjust to a 'comfotable' level for the hard line and tighten the bolts for the holder. Then attatch the feul line to the top of the filter tightly! Dont forget to replace the small metal o-ring things. Next finish tightening the hard line. Turn on the car, itll take a second or two, then check ur filter immediatly for leaking gas....if ther is, tighten up the bolts more where needed.........thats it.

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I almost stripped mine trying to get it off and this worked perfectly. Get yourself a set of flare nut wrenches, these are from Sears. If you put the flare nut wrench on the fuel line fitting and a regular open end wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter itself, you can pry the wrenches apart with a screwdriver. This info was relayed to me from Jim@ForeignAffairs. I can't remember what direction to turn, but I think it was toward the firewall. Jim told me what direction to turn but I can't check it since camryman.org went down.


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TIP: when u change the hard fuel line (bottom), if perhaps it gets stripped like mine did, retighten it and let it sit a minute. The lines should be either copper or bronze so they will reshape easily!
*If it is stripped beyond repair go to ur local lowes or home depot and get a 5/16" X 1/4" adapter (for 92-93 V-6's atleast), 1/4" side should be for a hose fitting and simply cut the old hard line where desired and clamp anew fuel hose (not just any ordanary High pressure hose,they will rot from the feul) atboth ends tightly.

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It is bolted to the wheel well behind the air filter housing. It is easy to change if you have small hands.

Before you disconnect any fuel lines, go under the rear seat - access the top of the gas tank, and disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection. Start the engine and let it idle until it dies, then shut off the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then follow the diagram below.

The fuel filter is removed physically by unbolting from the fender.

Use a tubing wrench (crows foot) instead of either an open-end wrench or adjustable jaw wrench to remove tubing connections. Use penetrating oil on the fitting first tp help remove it. They are soft metal and easily rounded off if you are not careful. Instead of a crows foot, a box-end wrench with a slot cut out of one end will work in a pinch.

Be careful not to twist the tubing when tightening or loosening a tubing fitting.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8...FuelFilter.jpg

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remeber prime the engine once your finished...... not good to start it dry, turn the key in the ignition off to acc 3 times you will hear the pump start going do it once your twice and you good.
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That's some good advice in the last one, neat trick to empty the system before removal, and then prime before starting again.

using that priming technique would probably also be a good way to check for leaks before actually starting the car and introducing heat to the area.
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