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Need some help with my new 95 V6 1mz.. I've had it for about 3 weeks now, and still loving it over my *wifes now* 94 I4. Having an issue though. Last week I noticed when leaving for work at 6am that after I backed out of the driveway, and started to drive up the hill I had no power *not electrical power*. Though I was pushing the gas pedal down, I was only doing like 5 mph, and even the tach wasn't moving really. But if I let off the gas, then push it back down I have power again. Also this morning, I noticed that as I went to leave, as soon as I let off the Ebrake I started to roll backwards with my foot on the brake. As far as that goes, I know I need to replace the pads on all 4 disk as they are barely there any longer! But I'm not sure what else would have caused this. Tried doing a search on the accel. problem and am only really finding issues with the car stalling on start, or poor idle, to which neither happens here, or just performace wise wanting better accell. Again this only happens in the morning first thing, and has only happend 3 days in the past 3 weeks. 2 of which were this past Thursday and Friday. So if anyone has any clues for me I'd love to hear from you. I'm going to be looking some stuff over later when I pull the car in the garage so some advice as to what I might check out while under the hood would be great! Thanks alot!
correct, the 1mz does not have the cap and rotor, it's all distributerles. I do plan to flush the oil and transmission fluid here next week, and may be doing the spark plugs on or around the 15th. Yea it just kinda confuses me cause it only happens when I first start up the car in teh morning. When it has happend it doesn't matter when I let off the gas. I normally start up, then reverse, then drive up hill in a matter of seconds. But all i have to do is let off the gas and it works fine. So long as I hold the pedal down ,I don't get any power going uphill. The rest of the day I dont' have the problem, even after it's been sitting in the parking lot for hours.
had a similar problem with my 3vz-fe, only when the engine was cold i found it would do it, and it wouldnt last long at all. Ther were numerous reasons that could lead to it...i think. now if only i could remember how i fixed it . Plugs should NOT be one of the reasons, it wouldnt make any sense if it were. its gonna bother me i cant remember, but ill let u know when i do...if i do. One possiblity is small leaks from gaskets = lack of compression before it begins to warm and expand sealing the minor leaks. that wasnt EXACTLY the entire solution though. i think i also made some minor timing adjustments but since ur distributorless it makes that pretty hard to do.
Sure I'd appreciate any info you got. Going to tool around with it this week after payday since I need to change the oil and replace the brakes anyways. Going to see what I can come up with .As yet it's still only done it those 3 times, so I can't find a comonality. But sure, i'll keep watching for an email!
Humor me. Does the car release....any noise when it starts to go? I have found if the rear brakes are contaminated from brake fluid then they will stick to the drums....causing the brakes to drag...then making you feel like you have a drivability issue..... is yours 4 wheel disc? Or drums in the rear. If drums take the drums off and check for contaminated rear brake shoes from a leaking wheel cylinder. This happens all the time. Just a thought good luck.
negative..it's 4 disk all round. No brakes are only used when I put the car in reverse gear to back out of the driveway, then stop, then in gear to go forward. As I start to push on the gas there is just no go. Almost like i'm in neutral, but it goes none the less. I can push down on the pedal more and I may make it to like 5-10 MPH. At no time does the RPMS ever shootup like it's not in gear or straining. It just feels like i'm barely pushing the gas down. But all I have to do is just let of the gas and then push the gas back down and we go like nothing had ever happend. No bumps, no slipping gears, no noise. Again, in the 3 weeks that I've owned this 1MZ, it's only happend 3 times. But those 3 times are enough to make sure I check it out before it get's worse.
COLD weather REALLY plays a role, which is wut lead me to investigate the possiblity of a gasket leak in important compression areas,,,ie head gaskets etc
Cold weather! Hahaha...I live in San Antonio Texas! Nightly temps here are like 78 degrees. When I'm leaving for work at 6am, it's a friggid temp of 84! I'm looking forward to it cooling off next week to a high of 95 instead of this weeks 103. Thanks for the tip anyways though!
Have you read or had read the computer trouble codes? Does anything show up there?
If there are no codes present I would change the plugs and plug wires, as suggested previously. If that doesn't cure the problem I would then check the coolant temp sensor. Toyota calls this the ECT. It could be telling the computer that the engine is always warm, never making the engine richer for cold (not to full operating temperature) running. That could be why it runs normally when you reach actual operating temperature. You can use the generation 4 manual at the top of this forum for the proper specs. You will need a DVM to do this simple test.
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