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brackets come with the projectors usually. It takes a dremel, drill, and couple hours of your time. That's not the hard part. The hard part is everything else (fabricating/finding shrouds/bezels to reduce light escape, painting housing black to prevent glare, hunting for the correct screws/nuts/paint/other supplies, building wiring harness...)
your lucky you went the gen III hella way i'm doing gen IV hella lot more work to get it done ............. and your lucky as well you dont need to clear your own head lights ... clearing seriously takes a month.
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^ and leaving it that way!
Wow! How hard is it to get the projectors level?
Are you gonna black out the sides also? Oh, and what do you use the dremel for?
Sorry for all these noob questions, can you stand one more?
How do the 4100k bulbs look? White, blue-white, blue, white with blue? I'm looking into doing this and don't know what bulbs to get. I like a white and blue mix.
i got a 200 set of ebay rember if it's gen IV it's alot more work than gen III. i need to remake my shroud sometime this week before i finsh my install up on friday. what did you use to make yours?
__________________
Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
Wow! How hard is it to get the projectors level?
Are you gonna black out the sides also? Oh, and what do you use the dremel for?
Sorry for all these noob questions, can you stand one more?
How do the 4100k bulbs look? White, blue-white, blue, white with blue? I'm looking into doing this and don't know what bulbs to get. I like a white and blue mix.
The bracket that comes with the projector gives you a pretty good indication of how the projector should be rotated. As for up and down, assuming you screwed your projectors into the back of the housing only and not the holder, you should still be able to control that with your stock housing.
I thought about blacking out the sides. I tried to take apart my older sidemarkers, but couldn't seem to figure out a way to do it without completely destroying them. Then again, I didn't try too hard. I think I'll keep them as they are.
Dremel is used mainly for cutting out a larger hole in the back and to also cut out this one piece that holds up this little circular metal enclosure surrounding the low beam.
4100k bulbs are WHITE. They provide the most light available. Philips used to only deal with 4100k because any other temperature decreased output. Lately they've been experimenting with some 6000k bulbs in Asia due to high demand of the blue tint. So if you want blue tint, go for around 5000k-6000k. Keep in mind, however, that anything above 4100k decreases output and that unless you get the Philips 6000k Ultinon bulbs, you're dealing with 3rd part non-OEM bulbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoboJoe
Just a guess, but I'm pretty sure he got those projectors from hidplanet.com. They are on sale for $99.99usd for a pair.
Correct. I got my set from the Bosch kit for $379.99 + ~$20 shipping. Still available, but they're out of ballasts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronoti
i got a 200 set of ebay rember if it's gen IV it's alot more work than gen III. i need to remake my shroud sometime this week before i finsh my install up on friday. what did you use to make yours?
For the shrouds, I found this metal sheet in the ducting aisle of Lowes. It's actually supposed to fold up to make a 3" tube, but it's soft enough to cut with scissors. After cutting mine out, I pieced them together into a circular pipe form using JB weld.
Last edited by DarkMastyr; 09-04-2005 at 09:17 PM.
I just got back from driving around at night. I went out to do some aligning of the headlights, but somehow, my projectors were already perfectly level... Good prep work I guess . Come to think of it, this is the first time I've driven a car with HIDs... what can I say but, HOLY CRAP!!! Hot diggity damn I'm glad I did this project.
Night time shots
Blurry, overexposed shot of HIDs with my instrument cluster. The red just completes it all for me.
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