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I just recently bought my 1990 Camry LE, I absolutely love the car. The original owners took good care of it. All of the maintenance items had been taken care of, spark plugs, filters, wires, cap, etc. However, it doesnt look like they ever changed any of the fluids. The transmission fluid is dark brown and the coolant looks nasty too. I took the car in to get the transmission fluid changed and the guy said he wouldnt even change it because when he took the pan and filter off there were a lot of metal particles on the magnets. I had been noticing a very firm shift from 1-2 and 3-4 but was hoping that a fluid change would help it out. He quoted me a price of about $2400 for a transmission rebuild and said it would take about 3 days. I had them put it back together and I left. I love the car, but is this a realistic price for this kind of repair? I will replace the transmission because I love the car so much and at 130,000 miles I can probably get another 100,000 out of it if I take good care of it. I cant find another car that will last as long or cost as little as I had bought this car for, even when I add in the price of the repair, I am still into the car very cheaply. Especially considering the condition of the car and it only being a one owner. On my quest for a good used car, I found Camrys with more miles for thousands more. Can anyone chime in?
Well, if you've no response as of yet it's probably because we don't what your question is. You clearly pointed out the trans problem, replacement cost and then you clearly state that you love the car and that even with a trans replacement, it still would be deal on your end. In other words, you answered your own question.
Now, if it was me, why not get a stick shift? 1990 LE, what's the engine? 3SFE? But, so, what you are gettin' done is a rebuild? If that is the case, why not shop around a bit? See what people are quoting and get the job done. Good luck with the Cam and I hope you do get to enjoy it when you work the kinks out. 100g on the odo from you is VERY possible if you take good care of her.
Change the fluid anyways, don't do a flush though, just a fluid and filter change and clean the pan out. It might help, won't hurt. If it breaks down buy a tranny from the junkyard and put it in. My guess is $500 for the tranny and $250-300 for labour. Make sure you get some sort of warranty from the junkyard. If they install it for you even better. Also there are sites on the net that rebuild and sell trannies. More expensive but maybe more durable.
Thanks, you are right. I did answer my own question. I am just wondering if a used transmission is a good idea or better for them to rebuild mine with new parts?
Change the fluid anyways, don't do a flush though, just a fluid and filter change and clean the pan out. It might help, won't hurt. If it breaks down buy a tranny from the junkyard and put it in.
^^ what he said. it will not hurt the tranny at all, mine was dark brown aand i changed it and the transmission shifts better. I recomend that you use Valvoline MaxLife Mercon III/Dexron ATF. I am currently using that stuff in my car and it works great. I have now changed the fluid 3 times now since i got it almost 3 months ago.
And for the transmission rebuild.... $2400 is a RIPOFF. Usually rebuild cost about $1400 to $1500. Dont get a rebuid, the trans shop only whants to make $$$ off of you.
I bought a remanufactured tran for my v6 for $800 w/exchange, shipping was $300 both ways. I bundled the install of the tran with changing both half shafts, installing shocks/springs, RSB, plus alignment for another $1100. There was some other misc stuff. I bought the shocks, springs and rsb myself, the mech supplied the rest.
Decide between trying to clean out the old one or get a rebuild. The two factors that jump out to me are the need for reliable transportation vs the expense. If it is running now and you change out the fluid and begin a cleaning routine (additives and frequent fluid changes) the worst case scenario is that it will quit working. That means you'll wind up having to tow it in to a tranny shop and you'll have to pay for a transmission right away.
Before you "fix" what is still working, line up the transmission shop. Then you're less likely to get taken advantage of. Make sure they'll install a used transmission (if that's what you decide on) and be comfortable with their warranty and speediness. Maybe even check them out through the Better Business Bureau or references. But do it before you jeopardize your transmission that kind of works OK as it is.
I like 89molavi's approach best. I would avoid the professional flushes at this stage. I would also be highly suspect of the original trany shop because of their estimate. Did you see the metal shavings come from your trany? Consider including Cargo Automatic Transmission Leak Sealer on your first fluid change. This cleans and conditions the trany. On the second fluid change use something like Lubeguard Automatic Protectant if the transmission still shifts poorly.
When you drain the transmission you only get about 2 quarts out. This means that you will probably need to change it 6-10 times with driving in between before you have mostly new fluid in the transmission. Don't forget the oil in the second reservoir (torque converter I believe). Just refill that one once or twice.
Dark fluid is not unusual with our 90 Camrys. My fluid is usually on the brown side yet I am at 330,000 and counting. By the way, if you can still ask the former owner, find out when they changed the timing belt. If more than 60,000 miles ago then go ahead and change it and check the water pump and tensioner while you're in there.
When you drain the transmission you only get about 2 quarts out. This means that you will probably need to change it 6-10 times with driving in between before you have mostly new fluid in the transmission. Don't forget the oil in the second reservoir (torque converter I believe). Just refill that one once or twice.
The 'second resevoir' isn't the torque convertor. The torque convertor is part of the transmission and that is what retains most of the tranny fluid when you just drain and refill. The second resevoir is the differential. I don't believe you use tranny fluid in there. I think gear oil is the proper fluid, but consult your local mechanic before you take my word for it.
Decide between trying to clean out the old one or get a rebuild. The two factors that jump out to me are the need for reliable transportation vs the expense. If it is running now and you change out the fluid and begin a cleaning routine (additives and frequent fluid changes) the worst case scenario is that it will quit working. That means you'll wind up having to tow it in to a tranny shop and you'll have to pay for a transmission right away.
Before you "fix" what is still working, line up the transmission shop. Then you're less likely to get taken advantage of. Make sure they'll install a used transmission (if that's what you decide on) and be comfortable with their warranty and speediness. Maybe even check them out through the Better Business Bureau or references. But do it before you jeopardize your transmission that kind of works OK as it is.
I like 89molavi's approach best. I would avoid the professional flushes at this stage. I would also be highly suspect of the original trany shop because of their estimate. Did you see the metal shavings come from your trany? Consider including Cargo Automatic Transmission Leak Sealer on your first fluid change. This cleans and conditions the trany. On the second fluid change use something like Lubeguard Automatic Protectant if the transmission still shifts poorly.
When you drain the transmission you only get about 2 quarts out. This means that you will probably need to change it 6-10 times with driving in between before you have mostly new fluid in the transmission. Don't forget the oil in the second reservoir (torque converter I believe). Just refill that one once or twice.
Dark fluid is not unusual with our 90 Camrys. My fluid is usually on the brown side yet I am at 330,000 and counting. By the way, if you can still ask the former owner, find out when they changed the timing belt. If more than 60,000 miles ago then go ahead and change it and check the water pump and tensioner while you're in there.
Kep
Thanks for your help. I took it to a local garage who specializes in Toyota repair. The mechanic, who used to be the service manager at our largest Toyota dealer here in town, said that a lot of older Toyota's shift this way and dont worry about it. He said we will worry about it when it either starts slipping or doesnt move. LOL The timing belt was changed at 127,000 miles. The car now has 131,000. So I thnk I am good to go with that.
Sounds like a fair mechanic. Keep him in the loop. Still consider doing some frequent ATF changes over the next several months to get out most of the old fluid. The additives are interesting. They will supposedly recondition the rubber parts (make them supple again) and dissolve the deposits (with less chance of dislodging clumps that a power flush can do).
Like V6LE_Camry, I too use Valvoline MaxLife Mercon III/Dexron ATF. It has many additives already in it and supposedly it has some friction enhancement properties (Does anyone know how they do this?). I planned to run this for a year and then try synthetic but I may just stay with it. Haven't decided yet.
So far, I kind of equate the transmission with human arteries. The passageways can get clogged up with varnish (cholesterol) and the rubber seals and gaskets can get brittle and stiff (atherosclerosis). The better we maintain the ATF (a good diet) the longer the transmission will run.
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