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Camry & Solara Lounge Discussion area for every generation of Toyota's family car, the Toyota Camry. Lexus ES250/300 owners welcome! Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance and more.

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Old 09-16-2005, 06:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA My Camry Quit!!!

My 90 Camry stopped while I was driving and all the lights came on. I tried to start but the radio came on but the battery would not crank even with a jump. It doesn't have the same clicking as when its the starter. The timing belt was done at 120,000 miles and it has 140,000 miles. Any help as to what it could be would be appreciated. I am female and do not want to get a run around. I have a mechanic that I have trusted just want to be prepared. It got towed today and I won't have any answeres till the morning.
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Old 09-16-2005, 06:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe connection cables?? or needs more TLC
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Old 09-16-2005, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Kinda hard to diagnose without seeing the car.

You could have a dead alternator, which caused the battery to drain and die. Alternator charges the battery, but when its dead it can't charge the battery.

I've experienced a dead alternator. Driving along just fine and the car starts loosing power and finally dies.
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Old 09-17-2005, 02:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I agree with 88 LE. The most likely cause is a bad alternator which allowed the battery to become completely drained while driving. Sometimes, when you try to jump start a completely drained battery, you have to put the cables on and leave them connected to the other car's battery for a few minutes, while the other car is running. This allows the other car's alternator put a bit of a charge in to your completely dead battery. 5 minutes should do it. Then try to jump start it. If this is the case, it should start. The only caution I give here is to use a good thick set of jumper cables. Real cheap ones (thin ones) can actually melt when connected for any length of time. Once the car is started it will only run for a few minutes until the battery is completely drarined again. If this starts the car and that few minutes doesn't allow you to get the car to your mechanic or to get the car to somewhere safe to work on, then you could bring a few tools to the car and remove the battery from the car and have it charged from an outside source. If the battery is good and strong, this will allow you to drive the car about 30-45 minutes. When running you can also use a DVM (digital volt/ohmeter) to test the car's battery and alternator. Set the meter to 20 volts DC and touch the leads to the car's battery posts/terminals. Polarity doesn't really matter here; you will get the correct reading in volts. It might say (-) in front of the volt reading, but it will be the correct numbers. If the alternator is working properly, it should put out around 14 to 14.6 volts. With a non-working alternator the reading will be 12 volts or less. Changing an alternator is a fairly easy and quick job on these cars, for the average do-it-yourselfer.

Good luck.

Mike
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