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*DIY* (09/16/05) Stock Stereo LED color change - (Lots of PICS) - 56k no way
This purpose of this DIY is to change the color of your factory stereo. The stereo seen here is a gen 4, 1999 camry xle but this DIY is applicable to most other models and years.
PLEASE NOTE: There are two options for doing this project:
A) This is the easier route where only the stereo buttons will be changed color but the LCD will remain the stock green.
B) This is the harder route where we will change all the LEDs including the LCD.
Depending on your soldering skills, choose a route. If you would like to do only the stereo buttons, you will need 40 SMD LEDs. If you would like to change the buttons and LCD you will need 51 SMD LEDs. Here is the data sheet on the LEDs I used.
WARNINGS: I don’t guarantee the results for anyone who wishes to try this. I used 1206 RED LEDs which have a forward voltage similar to the factory green LEDs (2.1 VDC). Other color LEDs have different forward voltages and although it shouldn’t be a big deal to use these different colored LEDs, you may run into problems. Explore at your own risk.
Tools required for Option A:
∑ 25W soldering iron
∑ tweezers
∑ 40 SMD 1206 LEDs
∑ Fine electrical rosin core solder(do not use a solder with a different core)
∑ well lit area
∑ magnifying glass (if needed)
∑ set of precision screwdrivers
∑ continuity tester or multimeter (recommended)
∑ steady hand!
Additional tools needed with Option B:
∑ Small needle nose pliers
∑ Dremal
∑ 1/16th inch drill bit or smaller
∑ 6" metal ruler (or similar piece of sheet metal)
∑ 11 more LEDs making a total of 51 (yeah the odd number sucks!)
Instructions:
1) Use a flat-headed screw driver with a taped end (to prevent damage) to pry off the plastic bezel around the stereo and HVAC. This trim piece is held on by plastic clips that will release when pulled straight out. You may need to use a small rope to more evenly pull on some of corners that are stuck.
2) Remove the four(4) screws that are holding the stereo to the dash. Unplug the three (or four) wires in the rear of the stereo.
3) Using your hands, pull the “volume” knob and the “audio control” knob straight toward you.
4) Using a small flat-head screwdriver, pry up the eight(8) clips that secure the stereo face to the body. This can be easily done by using the slot located just below each clip as a leverage point with your screwdriver.
5) Take the faceplate and set it on a table with the backside facing up. Using a small Phillips head screwdriver, remove the six(6) screws that secure the circuit board to the faceplate.
6) Set the circuit board down with the LCD facing up and you can now see your LEDs!
7) A few things to note before beginning. First, each LED is secure not only on solder on both sides but also a small amount of adhesive in the center of the LED which the manufacturer uses to secure it before soldering. Second, under both the cathode and anode are the connections between the LEDs and the circuit board, called solder pads. The solder pads are part of the board and they should stay that way. The solder pad is different than the solder itself. The pad is a very thin conductor which is connected to the circuit boards internal wiring. These solder pads are VERY delicate and it is extremely easy to break them when removing your LEDs. This means you should remove each LED with care and don’t rush the process. Let the solder become properly heated before applying pressure.
8) Ok, now you’re ready to begin. First select the soldering tip you feel most comfortable with (you may only have one). Next, let the soldering iron (DO NOT USE ANY IRON RATED HIGHER THAN 25W UNLESS ITS TEMPERATURE VARIBLE!) warm up the proper operating temperature (5-7 minutes).
9) Using a tweezers to grip the LED, touch the soldering iron to the first side of the LED until the solder becomes molten (around 5 seconds). Apply light upward pressure on one side only. Remember, the solder must be freed but also the small amount of adhesive must be freed as well. A soldering wick is useful here to suck up molten solder although I got by without one.
This is how the LED should look after pulling up one side:
10) DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL OFF THE ENTIRE LED BY ONLY HEATING ONE SIDE! This will pull of your solder pads. The LED must be pulled up one side at a time. Once the first side is freed, apply the iron to the second side to allow you to pull the LED off. Repeat this removal process for all 40 LEDs. I found it easier to remove all of them first and then replace with the new LEDs.
11) Before beginning the replacement process, a few things to note. These LEDs, along with most others, are polarity sensitive. This means they will only work if the current is flowing in the proper direction. In the diagram below I have marked all the NEGATIVE ends of the LEDs with red dots to help you orient the new ones properly. You need to look at the specification sheet provided with your LEDs to figure out your LED’s cathode and anode.
12) Using a tweezers to grip the LED, apply solder to one end of the LED be heating the LED’s node. Remember, you're not heating the solder, you're heating the node and touching the solder to the node. There may be enough solder left on your board to do this or you may need to add more. Please note that the LED’s contacts are located on the TOP SIDE of the LED and not the bottom. Therefore, your solder must make a connection between the board and the top side of your LED’s “wings”.
13) Repeat this process on all additional LEDs. It would be wise to check you soldering job by applying using your continuity tester across ONLY the solder. If you feel confident in your work, plug the board back into the stereo to view your results. It should look like this:
14) If you would like to also change the LEDs on the LCD screen, continue to the next steps.
15) Now for the LCD screen. The LCD screen if very delicate so be careful when working around it, so as to avoid permanently damaging the screen. DO NOT GRAB THE LCD unless you grab it by its sides. The first step is to remove the LCD’s metal guard. Turn the circuit board over to its backside. The metal guard is held on at two points where it has been bent and soldered. Apply your soldering iron to the solder and bend the tabs back into a straight line with your needle nose pliers. This allows the metal tabs to slide through the slot in the circuit board. You may use a soldering wick to soak up this unwanted solder although I did fine without one. Do this for both tabs and pull the metal cage off the front of the board.
This is the metal cage:
These are the metal tabs:
16) Now you need to remove the white plastic case. The case is held on by two plastic tabs that poke through the circuit board. Turn the circuit board so its back side is facing up. Take your Dremel and a 1/16th inch drill bit (or smaller) and, using a low RPM, proceed to carefully and slowly drill out those two plastic tabs until little or no material is left. We are trying to destroy the tabs, as we will not need them later.
17) Once the tabs are gone, pull the white housing out toward the top side of the circuit board. This should leave your naked LCD screen and exposed LEDs. You will have to put slight upward pressure onto the LCD in order to slide the plastic case out over the LEDs.
18) Now you can see that the LEDs under the LCD screen are very difficult to reach:
The numerous metal pins are too strong to bend. Take your dremel with a small cut off wheel to weaken the pins. The cut-off wheel I used can be seen below:
Run your dremel at 1000 RPM along the pins shown below. DO NOT cut all the way through, we are simply "sanding" the pins to weaken them.
19) Once the pins have been weaken, take your 6" ruler and apply uniform pressure to the pins in order to bend the LCD out of the way.
20) The result should look like this:
It is a good idea to use some zip ties to hold the screen back even further as the pins have some "play" in them:
Now you should have sufficient access to solder the leds.
The polarity of these additional LEDs are shown below with the NEGATIVE side shown by red dots:
21) Once you're done soldering, power up your circuit board to check your work. If its good to go, take your 6" ruler and cafefully bend back the LCD into its orginal position. Replace the white case at the metal cage. I didn't use any adhesive to set the white case in place but if you would like to, use a silicone sealant or a light adhesive. The metal cage seems to hold the plastic case sufficiently enough for me. Reassemble the faceplate and connect it to your stereo. Sit back and enjoy!
You can use a higher wattage iron if you want, but only if they are temperature controlled to about 600 deg F or there abouts. Another option is to use a soldering station.
Get a bottle of flux. It will help some with desoldering and solder process. You will also need some type of alcohol cleaner to clean the flux. Paste flux works also.
If you cannot remove the old solder, flux it and melt some new solder on it. Let it cool and then get rid of the solder. Wick it off with braid.
Let the board cool down between soldering connections. Ie, don't desolder one lead and then do the other one. Move to the other side of the board to give that side a chance to cool down.
After soldering with rosin core flux, clean up the area with alcohol.
Try not to keep the iron on the board for more than about 5 secs or you risk damaging it.
Those LEDs are surface mount and have very small pads. They are very easily damaged, it the pad can come off if you hold apply too much heat. The 5 sec rule is very important. If you have a soldering aid or dental pick, it will help to hold down those small components. Don't use your fingers
How much would you charge to do that for somebody else? Jon.
I don't think I'll be starting a business out of it. Besides I would have to charge a lot to make it worth my time and it would be cheaper for you to buy an aftermarket head unit in the color of your chose. But if money is no object, PM me!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatfantom68
Thats so awesome, the DIY is tight, but IMO, its waay too much work. I would just buy an aftermarket head unit with the color you want.
That is the easier way out, but I wanted to keep my tape player to I can use my ipod adapter. Besides my time (about 4 hours), I spent:
The soldering iron is a tool that will be used again many times. If you already have all the tools, the potential cost of this project is about $10. Not too bad.
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*DIY* (09/16/05) Stock Stereo LED color change - (Lots of PICS) - 56k no way
j/k... or am I? 
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