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Thanks guys. Here is an update. I did a full rotation on the crankshaft
like Clyde said and I was able to start the engine. I also did the
compression test and here's what I got:
cyl 1 = 160 psi
cyl 2 = 120 psi
cyl 3 = 155 psi
cyl 4 = 150 psi
cyl 5 = 165 psi
cyl 6 = 150 psi

Looks like cyl #2 is a bit low. The car idles at around 500 rpm which is
pretty rough. I use the tachnometer on the dashboard and run it to 800 rpm
to set the timing at 10 degree BTDC with the terminals E1 and TE1 shorted
according to the manual. However, the idle is still around 500 rpm and
running rough. The idle speed on the fuel injected engine cannot be adjusted.
The manual says it is automatically adjusted by the cpu. Sometimes it even
backfired. When I step on the accellerator, the engine sounds much smoother.
When I put it on drive, I can only get the 4runner to crawl and then died.
Sounds like the timing is quite off.

I have a few questions for you gurus.
1. From the compression data, can the cyl #2 still be warp or is it just a
bit worn?
2. Since the car idles low and only crawls when put on drive, does this
sound like a timing issue to you guys? How can I do a more accurate timing?
3. What else should I do to get it to work? Any other comments and ideas?

Thanks in advance,
-don


MrFixit469 wrote:[color=blue]
>Sounds like the most likely problem is a blown gasket or head. You can
>get a compression tester at your local auto parts place for about
>$30-$40 and test it yourself. Just pull out all of your plugs, screw in
>the compression tester and crank a few revolutions at each spark plug
>port. The readings should all be within 20% of eachother, if it is more
>you either have a blown head gasket or warped head, block, or worse a
>crack! If it looks like it's just the head gasket, have the head
>checked for warpage or, for about $120 in tools you can test it
>yourself. Go to [url]www.snapon.com[/url] and buy a 24" precision straightedge and
>set of feeler guages starting from .002" and larger. Since you've done
>the timing belt yourself, I'll assume you have a decent shop manual. It
>will show you how to check the head and block for warpage.
>If the head gasket looks ok, I'd think about swapping the long block as
>that means there's deeper problems. Between the overheating and excess
>oil added, these are sure to have done some damage.[/color]

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