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Re: TECH: 2000 Tundra 4WD front rotor removal
I ordered new Bembro rotors and higher quality ceramic Satisfaction pads
that are engineered to cool faster in between braking and transfer less heat
to the rotors.
Also is a school of thought that the rear brakes are out of adjustment and
this conditon creates an "unbalanced" braking condition that places more
braking force on the front than needed. The cure? Use the parking brake all
the time and /or adjust the rear brakes manually with the star adjustment.
Anyone noticed improvement as a result of increased parking brake use?
"mike" <atxguy@NOMORESPAMcomcast.com> wrote in message
news:MMKdnQ2OeqBonFbenZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@comcast.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks, I will give that a shot. I was doing more research today and it
> looks like later year models are having similar symptoms. Some of the
> theories I read would indicate that the rotors are getting too hot because
> the brakes weren't large enough to dissipate the heat properly. Also read
> that the new dust plates have a larger air scoop to increase cooling.
>
> So maybe high quality pads will help the brakes run cooler? My brakes are
> smooth as silk for about the first mile or two. They get gradually worse
> as the brakes get hotter.
>
>
>
> "Ken Shelton" <shelton@cablespeed.com> wrote in message
> news:_cudncvfEMsZ4FfeRVn-hw@cablespeedwa.com...[color=green]
>> mike wrote:[color=darkred]
>>> Thanks for the quick response. I bought my truck when it was just out of
>>> warranty. I have read many accounts from other 2000 owners with the same
>>> symptoms. A lot of them believe this was serious enough to warrant a
>>> recall but it hasn't happened yet.
>>>
>>> It sounds like you have some experience with this issue. Do you think
>>> new brake pads and rotor sufacing would fix my problem or am I just
>>> spinning my wheels? Most other owners claim their problems return in
>>> less than 200 miles. What do you think?
>>>
>>>
>>> "qslim" <Suckers@suckersdotcom> wrote in message
>>> news:d06036afa31c5be237461c30a61f7925@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
>>>
>>>>There was a bulletin issued advising the replacement of rotors, pads,
>>>>and
>>>>calipers to fix the warping issue. The updated calipers are a little
>>>>bigger, and supposedly that accounted for the difference. However, the
>>>>thing that really made the job a bear is the new dust covers that are
>>>>also
>>>>issued to accomodate the larger calipers. To replace them, you have to
>>>>pull
>>>>the front bearings apart. It's quite a job. Some customers have asked me
>>>>to
>>>>just 'modify' their existing dust covers, though, to save them some
>>>>money
>>>>on the labor side of the job, and as far as I know there haven't been
>>>>any
>>>>problems.
>>>> To answer the other part of your question, the rotors are extremely
>>>>easy to get off. Just remove the caliper and you're in business.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>[/color]
>> Some people with the early calipers never have the brake judder. Try very
>> high quality pads, maybe Hawk or Performance Friction.
>>
>> Resurfacing the rotors is iffy. If much material is removed, while still
>> within spec, the thinned rotor cannot handle heat well. Try it.
>>
>>
>> Ken[/color]
>
>[/color]
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