OK here's the setup. In all it's glory.
Eclipse CD8053
This thing has 3 way crosssovers for wiring a 2 way component set active, and a sub. Time Alignment, 10 band Parametric EQ, 8V Preouts, yadda, yadda, yadda, all specs
here
All wiring connections on the back of the headunit were soldered, and I used the Scosche Wiring adapter harness to make it a simple connection,
The 8V 55 ohm signal is sent to the amp via 6' pairs of Stinger Expert RCA's
Quote:
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EXPERT SERIES: Stinger has created the most advanced interconnect in the industry today! The Expert Series Audio Interconnect was designed to provide the highest level of performance and noise rejection possible. To accomplish this, we employed a duo of twisted-pair, silver-plated, 20ga. oxygen free copper conductors with directional noise-drain wires. Rubberized inner extrusion keeps the conductors in perfect alignment while laying the ground work for the two additional layers of shielding, mylar foil and OFC braided shield. For the finishing touch, a unique hexagon shaped rubberized outer jacket is extruded over the inner assembly for a look and feel like none other. The black chrome finished brass stopper is removable for unhindered cable routing. This masterpiece is capped off with black chrome finished, compact, hexagon shaped RCA ends with a laser etched Stinger "S" logo. Available in: 1.5, 3, 6, 12, 17 and 20-foot lengths and Y adapters. (Part # Ref. SX__).
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The RCA's get wired through the dash and hidden under the paneling of the center console. Then come out from a cut in the carpeting.
The RCA's send the actively crossed over signal to the
Xetec 4G600MKII
This amp sends 110 watts rms to each tweeter and mid(4 channel amp)
Here's some internal shots
The speaker wiring from the Xetec amp is
Knukonceptz 16 gauge tinned oxygen free copper wiring
This is pretty good wire, really easy to work with.
The front channels of the amp send the signal to the tweeters, the rear channels send the signal to the mids. Left and right respectively.
The Knukonceptz speaker wire gets soldered and heatshrinked to the MB Quart QTC25(QSD) tweeters. And the tweeters placed in the factory spot(for now until I fabricate them into the A Pillars) using hanger tape. Notice the tweeters are recessed into the door for clearance so it won't hit the door panel.
The speaker wiring to the mids use regular speaker terminal crimps. I might upgrade when I get rich
For now(and this isn't really a comprimise
) I'm using Phaze Audio/PPI Tubedriver MW64's.
Here's the manual for them
http://www.precisionpower.com/ppipdf...al/studio1.pdf
These are 4 ohm 6.5" Mids. They have a nice shallow mounting depth of 2.53" so they work well in just about any install. They can also play past 3.5 khz if need be. I ended up crossing them over at 3.15khz lpf, and 63 hz hpf, with a 12 db slope. That might change as I play with them more.
The mids are pretty cheap on ebay right now by a seller named Robot Underground. This is the only place I know of where to get these, although I didn't buy mine through him, they're like 80 plus shipping. Not bad.
They sound GREAT. I have no complaints right now at all. They have pretty good midbass, and they play clean up to 3.5khz.
The mids are mounted to custom MDF baffles available through Marv.
The doors got the silent treatment
to say the least.
1-3 layers of
RAAMmat on the inside of the outer doorskin. The "up to" 3 layers was behind the mid, and in the middle part of the door. After deadening Ensolite was applied using the spray glue Rick sells(good stuff, works very well). I used 2-3 layers directly behind the mid, and 1 layer on the complete inside of the outer door skin.
When the inside of the door was done, I routed the speaker wires through the door grommet tubes. The trick to these are to disconnect from both the door and the body and to use a screwdriver to straighten out the tube in order to run the wires through. Also try using a wire coat hanger to pull it though. This part is a pain in the ass, but you gotta do it.
After that was done, I started deadening the inside door skin. 1-2 layers of RAAMmat were applied and then a layer of Ensolite foam. I cut the Ensolite out from where the speaker opening is. I then lined the back of the MDF baffles with ensolite foam to make makeshift gasket to help seal off any air leaks. After this was done I bolted the the mdf baffle to the door using 1 1/2" flathead metal screws and 10 mm nuts. Don't forget the washers. Oh yeah, and remove the white clips that the original speaker baflles screwed into.
Once the baffle was bolted to the door I made a gasket for the back of the mid out of ensolite foam.
I need to save my pennies for a sub setup now.
Linear Mode
