An active setup is basically a setup where each set of drivers is individually powered by their own amplifier. That answers one question. There are many different ways you can go about it, 2-way, or 3-way being the most popular and really the most practical. In a 2-way setup you have your midbass driver and your tweeter. In a 3-way you have a midbass, a midrange, and a tweeter. Each driver plays only a certain range of frequencies. That's where the active crossover comes in. You ideally want to pick crossover points that match up well with the drivers you pick.
That's a really simplified explanation, but hopefully you get the point.
To be more specific, an 'active setup' is where each speaker is powered by an individual amplifier channel.
The 'active' part of the setup comes from the 'active' crossover used, meaning cutoff frequencies and slopes can be changed to suit the specific qualities of the speakers used to achieve a flat response over as broad a range as possible (or to overcome response peaks and valleys in the vehicle).
In a 'passive' crossover, there are set frequencies and slopes that are divided up between the speakers, and only one signal wire pair goes into the crossover, which then divides up the signal and passes it on.
The 'active' crossover takes in a low-level input (RCA), and splits up into multiple low-level inputs (one for each speaker pair, midrange, midbass, tweets) based on the settings, the signal is then passed on to the amps, which power the speakers directly after that.
It's termed 'active' because it's adjustable and is higher up in the signal path.
awsome i see these component sets and they have like two midbass and two tweeters and the two crossovers, do you put those in the doors with the speaks or do you put them by the amp and then run the speaker wires
you dont use the crossovers that come with them. Sell them or hold on to them. you use a sperarate crossover that goes before the Amplifiers, In-line with the RCA Signal.
Each Pair gets its own 2-channel amp. Tweets = 1 Amp, and Midbass = 1 Amp. and those amps get the signal from the electronic crossover
so idealy you would need to buy two tweeters, two midbass, two 2chan amps, and two xovers. what kind of wattage rms would the amps be? could you get one 4 chan amp?
so idealy you would need to buy two tweeters, two midbass, two 2chan amps, and two xovers. what kind of wattage rms would the amps be? could you get one 4 chan amp?
You could use a 4 channel amp, or a 5 channel or a 6 channel. As long as each individual speaker has it's own channel of amplification.
However Wiring active can be very complicated for a novice and I'd reccomend getting a regular passive component set until you have seriously studied alot and are totally comfortable with car audio. You can easily ruin your speakers if you make a wrong setting.
It's also a very good idea to get a headunit with 3 way crossovers and do all the processing through there. My Clarion DRZ9255 has 4 way crossovers for a 3 way front active setup + sub preout.
so idealy you would need to buy two xovers. what kind of wattage rms would the amps be?
No you would need to buy one single active electronic crossover, or more preferably a CD player with capable crossovers.
Try to get an amp that will have at leat 50 watts rms x 4 @ 4 ohms. The more the better.
In my active setup I will be using a 82 watt rms x 4 @ 4 ohm amp for the midrange and tweeters, then a 160 watt rms x 2 @ 4 ohm amp for the Midbass, then a 500 watt rms x 1 @ 4 ohms amp for the sub(s).
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