All that would be around $800-900.....or could i get something just as good for cheaper? I can spend money but if i can go cheaper and save i want to do that.
oh and i want the whole active setup off of 1 amplifier, should i go with a 6-channel instead?
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Last edited by ModifierMR; 12-13-2005 at 03:18 PM.
If you're going to go active you will need 6 channels of amplification. One for each individual driver.
And as said above you will need a 4 way crossover, but you can use the headunit's sub output to crossover the subs, and then let that kicker crossover do the other ones, BUT, you are much better off using a processor like the PXA-H701 or something else.
And if you're gonna go active, don't waste money on passive crossovers, buy the individual drivers seperately ( www.diymobileaudio.com )
All that would be around $800-900.....or could i get something just as good for cheaper? I can spend money but if i can go cheaper and save i want to do that.
oh and i want the whole active setup off of 1 amplifier, should i go with a 6-channel instead?
First and foremost, you need a 6-channel amp -- every channel (tweets, mid, midbass) must be run in stereo.
So...that throws out your Alpine.
Secondly, I wouldn't spend an exorbitant amount of money on Focal Polyglass -- and ESPECIALLY not on eBay. Focal products are the #1 most counterfeit-ed in car audio. Buy from an authorized dealer.
If you really want to go active, assuming you've had an active setup before or know how to properly tune one, then it's in your best interest to check out the stuff on Madisound, PE, Solen, Zalytron, etc. Otherwise, buy a good passive set to hold you over. I imagine you will be VERY frustrated with tuning otherwise -- not to mention running the risk of popping a tweeter or something worse.
Lastly, if you don't have the processing power within your HU (Clarion DRZ9255, Pioneer DEX/DEQ-P9, Alpine H700/701), you're going to need a 4-way crossover.
Audiocontrol 4XS
Sony XEC-1000
Those are two prominent electronic ones that come to mind.
Aren't you planning on using a DVA-9860? I hope you know it's basically an entry-level Alpine headunit with DVD playback ability. The only reason people, like me, get it is because of the optical output into a PXA-H700/701.
If you really want to go active, assuming you've had an active setup before or know how to properly tune one, I imagine you will be VERY frustrated with tuning otherwise -- not to mention running the risk of popping a tweeter or something worse.
Lastly, if you don't have the processing power within your HU (Clarion DRZ9255, Pioneer DEX/DEQ-P9, Alpine H700/701), you're going to need a 4-way crossover.
Aren't you planning on using a DVA-9860? I hope you know it's basically an entry-level Alpine headunit with DVD playback ability. The only reason people, like me, get it is because of the optical output into a PXA-H700/701.
Just some food for thought....
I am going to buy the DVA9860 yes, Along with a PXA-H701. If i buy those i will have no need for a external X-Over right?
I have never had a Active setup befre (obvious aint it?) thats why im asking so many questions....I want to do it right the first time. And scince i will have about 3K to spend im not really worried about money.
I do understand how Crossovers work in electronics, I learned all about them in Shop at school. How do you properly tune an active setup? Do you set the crossovers to work with the characteristics of each component?
And Do you still have those alpine components i saw on one of the threads?
Oh yea and thanks for breaking it down and giving me the advice
I am going to buy the DVA9860 yes, Along with a PXA-H701. If i buy those i will have no need for a external X-Over right?
I have never had a Active setup befre (obvious aint it?) thats why im asking so many questions....I want to do it right the first time. And scince i will have about 3K to spend im not really worried about money.
I do understand how Crossovers work in electronics, I learned all about them in Shop at school. How do you properly tune an active setup? Do you set the crossovers to work with the characteristics of each component?
And Do you still have those alpine components i saw on one of the threads?
Oh yea and thanks for breaking it down and giving me the advice
Yes, I still have the Alpines. A lot of biters, but no takers.
I am going to buy the DVA9860 yes, Along with a PXA-H701. If i buy those i will have no need for a external X-Over right?
Correct, the H701 is probably one of the best crossovers out there. It just happens to have over 150 bands of equalization, time alignment, and all kinds of other good stuff.
Quote:
I have never had a Active setup befre (obvious aint it?) thats why im asking so many questions....I want to do it right the first time. And scince i will have about 3K to spend im not really worried about money.
I do understand how Crossovers work in electronics, I learned all about them in Shop at school. How do you properly tune an active setup? Do you set the crossovers to work with the characteristics of each component?
In a 3 front active setup, the basic crossover point settings are
Tweeter HPF on at anywhere from 1.5Khz to 6khz, depends on your tweeter. Typically in a three way setup your midrange will play past 4khz, which is what you want because you want your midrange in a 3 way setup to cover the entire vocal range. So optimal tweeter crossover points will be anywhere from 4khz to 6khz(in a 3 way)
For the midrange you will want the LPF at about 3khz to 4khz. Then have the HPF at around 150-300hz depending on how low they can play. Typically this setting will be around 200-300 hz, but uit depends on the speaker.
For the Midbass, you will have the LPF at about 150-300 hz(depending on where you set your midrange), then you want the midbass to play as low as it can without distortion. Typically your two available HPF crossover points for the midbass will be 60hz or 83 hz. You can go up to 120hz. But by going up higher in the crossover points your subwoofer will be easier to localize because higher frequencies are easier to locate where they are coming from(remember we talked about this in an earlier thread)
You want the illusion that the subwoofer is mounted somewhere in the front. To do this you wnt your midbass playing as low and and loud as they can without distortion.
Quote:
And Do you still have those alpine components i saw on one of the threads?
Oh yea and thanks for breaking it down and giving me the advice
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Last edited by cam2Xrunner; 12-13-2005 at 08:16 PM.
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