installing license plate backup sensor on 2005 camry

[dreamz]

i recently picked up an autopark 2000: http://www.opticsplanet.net/atnaut20bacs.html

i figured, for the price (got it off of ebay), what the hey?

has anyone ever used/installed one of these? i'm looking for as much info as possible, e.g.:

-is there a hole that will allow me to route the wires into the trunk?
-i need to hook it up to the reverse light and a ground wire. do i just pop open the casing in the back, e.g. for the left rear light, and connect them? how do i tell which wires are which?

i don't really know much about this, but in my defense, i'm more of a computer guy than a car guy.

happy new year!

[touringcamry]

You probably can route the wire up into the license plate light illumination

The reverse light, just look for the wire that goes into the bulb that's not white with black stripes -- that's ground and you can use any metal panel on your car as ground.

[dna59]

That's a cool little gadget.

[inov8]

You might find some useful tips here:

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_awell_install.pdf

[dreamz]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

You probably can route the wire up into the license plate light illumination

the sensor is attached to the license plate frame, and the wires will be coming out of the back. could you perhaps explain how i might do that?

here's how it looks:

here's the rear light, for completeness:

The reverse light, just look for the wire that goes into the bulb that's not white with black stripes -- that's ground and you can use any metal panel on your car as ground.

so would i just route the wires inside the trunk, then back out and into the rear light compartment (the bulbs)? is there a reason why i shouldn't tap the wire here?

the rear light compartment:

a closer look:

toward the right of the picture, i see a red/black wire and two black/white wires. i assume the red/black one is the reverse light and the black/white ones are the ground. is that right?

the kit comes with self-stripping wire splices. it looks like i just stick the two wires inside, then clamp down. is that all?

i need to remove the trim. there are some black pins. how do i remove them without breaking them?



thanks again.

Originally Posted by inov8

You might find some useful tips here:

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_awell_install.pdf

thanks, inov8. that's a really detailed article. it'll definitely help.

[touringcamry]

The illumination for the license plate is a bit different from what I remember...If you can remove the light there's probably a gasket around the light to seal it. But it might damage the wire or cause a leak if it's a tight fitting

Now I'm thinking you may need to drill a hole and then fill it back up with silicon or something or route the wire to the bottom of the trunk lid. Or maybe if you remove that chrome piece there will be an opening. I have no idea.

The white wire with black stripe is ground, see how it goes into the other bulb (the one with the green wire) in addition to the reverse light. It's the common wire.

What do the wire splices look like? I don't think it would be a good idea to tap the red color reverse light bulb right at the end because that section bends and you don't want a rigid section in there. Maybe cut away some of that electrical tape or black wrapping so more wire is exposed and then tap it there. Then tape up the end of the wrapping.

The clips you need to pull the middle portion off and then I think both pieces come out as one piece. You'll need a small flat head screwdriver to pop the center part out.

[dreamz]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

The illumination for the license plate is a bit different from what I remember...If you can remove the light there's probably a gasket around the light to seal it. But it might damage the wire or cause a leak if it's a tight fitting

that's my main concern. i'm not sure how i can get the wires into the trunk.

Now I'm thinking you may need to drill a hole and then fill it back up with silicon or something or route the wire to the bottom of the trunk lid. Or maybe if you remove that chrome piece there will be an opening. I have no idea.

i'd rather not drill. 1) i don't own a drill, and 2) i don't like drilling cars. :/

i'll poke around and see if i can find some way to get the wires inside.

at the moment, i'm pretty confident that everything else will go smoothly.

What do the wire splices look like?

http://www.tessco.com/products/displ...08&eventPage=1

stick the two wires inside, then clip it shut. the piece of metal in the middle strips the insulated wire and "connects" the two wires electrically. i've never used these things before (i used to solder stuff when i was in school and had the tools), but it seems pretty nice.

I don't think it would be a good idea to tap the red color reverse light bulb right at the end because that section bends and you don't want a rigid section in there. Maybe cut away some of that electrical tape or black wrapping so more wire is exposed and then tap it there. Then tape up the end of the wrapping.

good point and good suggestion.

The clips you need to pull the middle portion off and then I think both pieces come out as one piece. You'll need a small flat head screwdriver to pop the center part out.

thanks. they were pretty tough.

[inov8]

I have a Solara wiring diagram. There is a good chance the Camry wire colors are identical.

Tail and license plate lamps - - - - - Green
Stop lamps - - - - - Green with White stripe
Reverse lamps - - - Red with Black stripe
Turn signal - - - (Left) Green wilth Black stripe (Right) Green with Yellow stripe
Ground - - - White with Black stripe

Toyota ran a green wire between the tail lamp and the license plate lamps. Perhaps you can follow the same route they used.

The Splice taps usually have two wire channels. One goes completely through from one end to the other, while the other has a barrier near one end. You open the tap and slide it over the vehicle wire so that wire is in the non-barrriered channel. The wire from/to the accessory goes up against the barrier in the other channel. Then you sqeeze the splice closed and fasten the latch ("gas" pliers are handy here). I have not found these devices to be 100% reliable, but they do work OK for certain wire diameters.

To remove the trim fasteners, heat them first with a hair dryer, then you can pry them out with two flat-blade screwdrivers, one on each side. Auto stores sell a tool (looks like a 2-tined fork) that makes this job a lot easier. If you break one, they have replacements at Pep Boys and Autozone stores.

[dreamz]

Originally Posted by inov8

I have a Solara wiring diagram. There is a good chance the Camry wire colors are identical.

Tail and license plate lamps - - - - - Green
Stop lamps - - - - - Green with White stripe
Reverse lamps - - - Red with Black stripe
Turn signal - - - (Left) Green wilth Black stripe (Right) Green with Yellow stripe
Ground - - - White with Black stripe

Toyota ran a green wire between the tail lamp and the license plate lamps. Perhaps you can follow the same route they used.

that sounds about right to me.

The Splice taps usually have two wire channels. One goes completely through from one end to the other, while the other has a barrier near one end. You open the tap and slide it over the vehicle wire so that wire is in the non-barrriered channel. The wire from/to the accessory goes up against the barrier in the other channel. Then you sqeeze the splice closed and fasten the latch ("gas" pliers are handy here). I have not found these devices to be 100% reliable, but they do work OK for certain wire diameters.

yup, that's what i thought. of course, it's strange that the other wire is partially exposed in the connector. the wire for the sensor is stripped at the end, and the instructions say to stick it into the connector and clamp down. it seems like that would be a problem. not a big deal. i can always snip the wire and have it splice it again or just wrap it in electrical tape.

what experiences did you have that would make you say they're not 100% reliable?

To remove the trim fasteners, heat them first with a hair dryer, then you can pry them out with two flat-blade screwdrivers, one on each side. Auto stores sell a tool (looks like a 2-tined fork) that makes this job a lot easier. If you break one, they have replacements at Pep Boys and Autozone stores.

actually, i didn't need to heat them at all. i managed to pull them out quite easily, except for one of them that was located behind the trunk release latch. that one took a while.


but actually, i figured out how i can get the wires inside without drilling or messing with the license plate lamps. the license plate is screwed in with 2 screws. i can take out one of them and simply route the wires through that hole. it'll be secure because the other side is still screwed in, plus the wires will hold up the license plate. also, the plate and frame are not that heavy, so they won't be tugging on the wires too much. and i know the hole goes right through because i stuck a straightened-out paper clip through it and it hit the trim.

is this a dumb idea? please let me know.

[touringcamry]

If you're going to route it that way, I would put rubber or plastic grommet there so that the wire doesn't get scraped by the metal and cause a short.

Also I would get a smaller diameter bolt to put through the plate and the trunk and put a nut inside to keep the plate secured.

[inov8]

dreamz . . . . I only recommended the hair dryer because plastic becomes brittle when cold and I noticed you were in Illinois.

The splice taps are intended for use with insulated wire; they may not properly grip and contact a bare wire. You can use ordinary scissors to cut off the section of wire that was pre-stripped.

To explain the "not 100% reliable" comment:
When my kids were in high school, my garage became the automotive "killer stereo" construction and installation zone for scores of teenagers. This was fine with me because I enjoyed helping the kids, and I knew what they were doing with their discretionary time. The lads experienced constant problems with intermittent contact when using splice taps. With the "right" wire (thin insulation, thick conductor) they are reasonably reliable.

It's hard to pass judgment on the one bolt license plate concept without actually seeing the car. However, keep in mind that, at 70 mph, air turbulence can create some powerful forces. One bolt would probably hold forever if the car was never actually driven.
If you could find a friend to drill a small hole at an angle in the "ledge" where the plate lamps are mounted, it will not be readily visible.

[dreamz]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

If you're going to route it that way, I would put rubber or plastic grommet there so that the wire doesn't get scraped by the metal and cause a short.

Also I would get a smaller diameter bolt to put through the plate and the trunk and put a nut inside to keep the plate secured.

yeah, i was going to use some rubber, but the bolt would definitely make it more secure.

Originally Posted by inov8

dreamz . . . . I only recommended the hair dryer because plastic becomes brittle when cold and I noticed you were in Illinois.

good observation! thanks for the tip. it was pretty cold outside.

The splice taps are intended for use with insulated wire; they may not properly grip and contact a bare wire. You can use ordinary scissors to cut off the section of wire that was pre-stripped.

ok, i was debating whether i should do that or not. now i will.

The lads experienced constant problems with intermittent contact when using splice taps. With the "right" wire (thin insulation, thick conductor) they are reasonably reliable.

these splice taps came with the kit. i would hope they work properly, but who knows?

It's hard to pass judgment on the one bolt license plate concept without actually seeing the car. However, keep in mind that, at 70 mph, air turbulence can create some powerful forces. One bolt would probably hold forever if the car was never actually driven.
If you could find a friend to drill a small hole at an angle in the "ledge" where the plate lamps are mounted, it will not be readily visible.

that's a good point. i mean, i could always drill another hole in between the two screwholes and it would be hidden behind the plate, but i'm trying to avoid drilling. :/

i was thinking of using a long and narrow bolt with 2 washers and a nut. that should work.

[dreamz]

one more question:

the wires are pretty short. if i route the wires through the top of the trunk, there's no way i'll be able to tap the wires in the rear compartment. does anyone know what the electrical layout is for the trunk of the camry?

thanks.

[touringcamry]

If the wires are too short, just buy some stranded primary wire of equal or larger guage and some butt connectors and splice it in the middle.

[inov8]

Ae the wires permanently connected internally to the sensor unit, or did they use a connector? I can't tell from the pictures on the web site.

I ask because I'll be glad to extend them for you by making up an extension with connectors so it becomes a "plug and play" effort to make as long as you like. You would have to mail me the harness that is too short.