8 gauge to 4 gauge?

[Frugle]

I have a couple of quesitons...

1) In my old car, I wired my MTX 502 (pusing 2 road thunder 10"s) with an 8 guage wire and 60 amp in line fuse)

now when I got my camry I I thought I had had a 4 gauge kit, so I ordered a 4 gauge kit..

when I got the kit I noticed the wire was HUGE, so I looked at my last wire and realized it was an 8 gauge....

is there a problem using a 4 gauge wire with my amp? now the main reason I'm asking is the fuse. then 4 gauge came with an 80 amp fuse... do I need to swap it with the 60 (my amp has 2 30 amp fuses). can I swap the fuses?



2) also, I bought a PIE 1VT. ( a thing that turns the signal to the speakers into a 12 volt turn on lead for the amp)

does anyone know which wires go where? it didn't come with any instructions... I'm guessing black is obviously ground... so that leaves 3 others... (yellow green and blue).. and I don't know which one goes where.


3) Is there an alternative to splicing? I feel like i've been told theres a way to connect it to the exisiting plug going into the speaker...


4) anyone know of a good place to run the cable through the firewall? I've been told theres a way through the drivers side wheel well.

Thanks!

[touringcamry]

The larger the wire, the more power it can handle and the less resistance it will cause through the run. As long as you have connectors to put connect the 4g wire, it'll work fine, and you can use either the 60 or 80 amp fuse.

The fuse is there to protect the wire from burning up so probably the lower the better but it doesn't really matter which one you use. I would say use the lowest that you can use.

On the Pie 1Vt thing, blue probably goes to the remote connection on the amp, yellow goes to power, either to constant +12 or ACC wire (I forget which one is yellow), and green goes to a speaker lead. This iis only my guess I am trying to remember the standard colors for wires that come out of the back of an aftermarket stereo.

Alternative to splicing...I guess you could ghetto rig it by wrapping some bare wire near the terminal and then putting some electrical tape. Another option are wire taps or T-taps.

To get through the firewall, remove the driver side front wheel and the plastic piece underneath. There should be a rubber thing behind there that breaches the firewall.

[Frugle]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

The larger the wire, the more power it can handle and the less resistance it will cause through the run. As long as you have connectors to put connect the 4g wire, it'll work fine, and you can use either the 60 or 80 amp fuse.

The fuse is there to protect the wire from burning up so probably the lower the better but it doesn't really matter which one you use. I would say use the lowest that you can use.

On the Pie 1Vt thing, blue probably goes to the remote connection on the amp, yellow goes to power, either to constant +12 or ACC wire (I forget which one is yellow), and green goes to a speaker lead. This iis only my guess I am trying to remember the standard colors for wires that come out of the back of an aftermarket stereo.

Alternative to splicing...I guess you could ghetto rig it by wrapping some bare wire near the terminal and then putting some electrical tape. Another option are wire taps or T-taps.

To get through the firewall, remove the driver side front wheel and the plastic piece underneath. There should be a rubber thing behind there that breaches the firewall.

thanks, I know you've answered me before... sorry for starting a new thread, but these seemed to be more direct question than the broad ones in my last thread...


thanks again!

and I believe your right... cause I think it is listed "Ground" "Constant 12 volts" (the ACC thing?) "12 volt output" and one other one.

[touringcamry]

Constant 12V is not the ACC wire. Just connect that lead to the wire you run from the battery to the amp.

[Frugle]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

Constant 12V is not the ACC wire. Just connect that lead to the wire you run from the battery to the amp.

wait... to the 4 gauge? wouldn't that be bad? are you sure its not the ACC thing? I found the list on the back of the package, it says "Ground" "trigger lead" "12 volt constant" and "12 volt output"....

[thoughthard]

from http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=370 ...

Black-Ground, Green- Trigger input, Yellow +12V constant, Blue +12V output

[touringcamry]

Yup, constant +12 is the same as connecting it to the battery.

My guess is that the 4g wire will have a ring or spade terminal to connect it to a screw down post on the amp. Just get another terminal and connect the yellow wire to the same terminal, or you could just wrap the wire around the post.

Constant +12 is not switched like ACC, hence constant. Connecting that little wire to the 4g wire will be fine. If you really feel unsafe, you could put a fuse holder and a small fuse (maybe 1A or thereabouts) between the yellow wire and the 4g wire. The amp will be wired in parallel with the PIE device but only the voltage is common, the current depends on the branch of the circuit.

Green trigger input connects to one of the speaker leads. 12V out is the remote connection on the amp.

[Frugle]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

Yup, constant +12 is the same as connecting it to the battery.

My guess is that the 4g wire will have a ring or spade terminal to connect it to a screw down post on the amp. Just get another terminal and connect the yellow wire to the same terminal, or you could just wrap the wire around the post.

Constant +12 is not switched like ACC, hence constant. Connecting that little wire to the 4g wire will be fine. If you really feel unsafe, you could put a fuse holder and a small fuse (maybe 1A or thereabouts) between the yellow wire and the 4g wire. The amp will be wired in parallel with the PIE device but only the voltage is common, the current depends on the branch of the circuit.

Green trigger input connects to one of the speaker leads. 12V out is the remote connection on the amp.

Thank you for taking time to respond and help me!


now, is it possible, to run a switch to the front somehow? do I connect it to the 12 volt constant line? I would like to put it in one of the pop out slots on the left side of the dash where people usually put the fog light switch.

do you know where I could get a switch that would look good there? I don't want a normal round or metal switch, I would like something longer and better looking kind of like the fog switch.

[touringcamry]

What are you trying to switch?

[Frugle]

the amp on and off. ( so that if people are riding with me, they arn't blown away.. I'd rather just the stock speakers be playing.)

[justchillinjefe]

Originally Posted by Frugle

the amp on and off. ( so that if people are riding with me, they arn't blown away.. I'd rather just the stock speakers be playing.)

Instead of hooking up the sub amp acc wire to the back of my deck i put a switch in a panel under the deck. Just run the wire from the amp to the switch, then a wire from the switch to a 12v constant. If you are using a lit switch run a ground wire from the switch to a grounding point.

On a lot of decks if you hook up the sub amp to the deck you can turn the sub on and off right from the deck.

I like being able to switch it on and off with the switch because its a lot easier.

[88 LE]

^ I would wire up the switch to ACC (ignition) instead of +12V constant.

That way if you shut off the engine and forget to flip the switch to the off position, the amp still turns off.

If its wired to +12V constant and you forget to flip the switch, the amp stays on.




As for where to buy a switch. Goto a electronics supply shop.

Radio Shack might even have what your looking for, but thats the last place I'd goto when looking for electronic supplies.

[Frugle]

Originally Posted by 88 LE

^ I would wire up the switch to ACC (ignition) instead of +12V constant.

That way if you shut off the engine and forget to flip the switch to the off position, the amp still turns off.

If its wired to +12V constant and you forget to flip the switch, the amp stays on.




As for where to buy a switch. Goto a electronics supply shop.

Radio Shack might even have what your looking for, but thats the last place I'd goto when looking for electronic supplies.

well the PIE 1VT is supposed to do that by useing a speaker signal.. converting it into an on off lead..

the 1VT needs the constant 12V... which is what I wanted to be switchable.

[88 LE]

^ ACC (ignition) is a switched +12V source.

ACC (ignition) outputs +12V whenever the ignition is on. When the ignition is off, theres nothing. Hence switched +12V source.


So wire it like this:

yellow wire on 1VT ---> one side of a switch

other side of switch ---> ACC (ignition)

[Pimpinda93camry]

What you guys are saying is mostly correct. The yellow is a positive 12 volt source. the red is the switched source. you can eiether connect you remote lead to the red or the blue( which is the antenna remote i belive, Butt it is best to get a wireing hareness so if you decide to take out the radio and put back in the oe you gust unplug you pigtail and use the factory harrness for the oe adn moone will know there was a different radio in it.) becasue when the key is off you cant turn on your radio away. Also the 4 gauge is the better of the two anyway becasue less resisence and it will tranfer the energy faster to the amp whichsolves the dimming of the lights. the 60 or 80 amp fuse is fine becasue the two 30 in the amp only protects the amp not the wires. and if the line shorts the fuse will pop on either the 60 or 80 becasue it will carry way to much for either fuse . you could run a 100 amp if you wanted.