Basic Amp Install Instructions

[Phi]

Amp Install Instructions

Difficulty and estimated time: Easy. 4hrs approx

Supplies:
-Amp wire kit

or the following individual components;

-Power Wire (Enough to get from engine to trunk - 4 guage recommended)
-In-line Fuse
-wire grommet (optional but recommended)
-RCA speaker wire (enough to get from deck to trunk)
-remote wire (from deck to trunk)
-ground wire (about 1ft. As short as possible to ground – 4 guage rec.)
-various connectors (loops, banana etc)
-Zip ties
-Amp mounting hardware (ie. Screws)

Tools:
-Wire crimper
-Coat hanger
-Allen keys
-screw drivers

Directions:

First thing you’ll need to figure out is how you’re going to run the power wire from the battery to the trunk. Most people just drill through the firewall. If you have time, some other options include going through factory holes. There is one behind the driver side fender lining (ask Elegant or SilverStreak) or you can poke thorough the rubber steering rack groment found against the firewall near the brake pedal (this is what I did). Once you’ve decided what method to use, fish the power wire from the engine bay into the car with the help of a coat hanger or any other ingenious method you may have.

Now we need to work on the remote switch wire for the amp. If your deck has a lead for this, splice into it. If not, you need to find a wire which provides a 12V constant when the car is on. This wire simply provides a signal to turn your amp on and off.

We’re now going to conceal both the power and remote the wire under the driver side door sill. Remove all the necessary trim pcs needed to tuck the wire away. Tuck the pwr wire alongside the factory wires which you’ll find once you remove the trim.

Next we’ll work on the RCA speaker wires. Assuming you’ve already removed the deck, run the RCA wire from the deck, under the passenger footwell area to the passenger side doorsill. Repeat similar steps as you did for the pwr wire to get the RCAs to the trunk.

Now for the amp. Determine where and how you want to mount the amp so that we can start making connections.
Lets’s work with the ground wire next. You can either sand off a painted area of the trunk floor or use a bolt securing the rear seat bolster (this is recommended). Use a loop connector to secure the ground. The ground is very important, so make sure it’s secure and free from interference (ie. Paint).

Now we’re going to start trimming excess wire and make all the connections. A tip to make the connections look clean. Snip the tip of each wire off to start with a clean edge. Strip about ½” of wire insulation. Twist exposed wire into a tight bunch. Connect the ground, pwr and remote into the appropriate ports. Use an allen key (or screwdriver) to tighten the connections. Next, connect the RCA wire into the amp. Then, connect leads from the subs in the correlating polarities into the amps output.

Now back to the front of the car. We need to get power flowing through the wire. You need to install the in-line fuse no more than about 1ft from the battery (LEAVE THE FUSE OUT FOR SAFETY). Connect the wire to the battery using a loop connector.

Now double check all of your wires. It should flow something like this;

Pwr wire: Battery>inline fuse>amp
Remote wire: Deck>amp
RCA: Deck>amp
Ground: Metal>amp
Sub: Amp>sub

Once everything is correct, put the fuse in. Turn on the stereo at a low volume and voila! (or so we hope)

Put the car back together again. Put your favourite CD in and start tuning the amp. That’ll be next weeks lesson.


If you find any errors or have any tips, feel free to add 8)

Discalimer: I'm not responsible for any damage to your vehicle as a result of following my tutorial. Use at your own risk.

[SSlick406]

Tip: You do want to keep the power wire seperate from the RCA's or any other non-power wire (Speakers.) This will prevent any interference in the system.

[Stealth]

keep power wire 18" or more from other wires...
fuse should be no less than 10" from battery (well that's what they recommend, mine's probably like 18" away... oh well) or as close as possible. Also make sure to keep the remote turn on wire with the power wire... because it also has current passing through it and can cause static... most install kits come with a ground wire that is supposed to go from the headunit to amp... run it if if you want, if not don't.. doesn't really make a difference, just keep it with the power and remote turn on wires.

[arcasmachineracing]

Good post. For noobies! :p

[tinman831]

this post is 10 months old. good grief. darn post whores :p

[Stealth]

except that's his first post? wtf
delete all the replies to this thread and lock

[Sportivo Concepts]

Dont forget your crossovers for the amps that don't have them already built-in and capicators for those who pump the bass and high peak points. This will make sure that your speakers are getting the power which normally would peter out during those peak mounts of power drain.

[JaJay721]

Originally posted by Stealth
except that's his first post? wtf
delete all the replies to this thread and lock

Why do that? This forum is an archive of information. The people who posted had valuable information.

[Stealth]

this is a link from the sticky i think... so its not meant to be altered

[JaJay721]

Originally posted by Phi
Amp Install Instructions


If you find any errors or have any tips, feel free to add 8)

[Hajoca]

The reason for putting in a fuse as close to power source as possible is to make sure that the 'live' section of wire is as short as possible, in case of a short the fuse location is important. It cuts off. When the lead is too longm a section between the power and fuse can be the fault (short) and there will be no fuse to protect the system, and damage cannot be controlled.

Remember, the fuse on the equipment (ie deck, amp etc) is for that unit only, not the entire system.

[DMDrew812]

Spam Check, 1.5yr old thread. Though its good to remind people of that,,