Recommend Speakers

[Ruffrydasean]

My mom ordered a Pioneer DEH-MP7800P online for me, but they called back and offer my mom the Premier MP780P for like 5-10 bucks more. It came yesterday. But my car is out for work at the dealer. In the meanwhile.. I was reading the manual and it said to use speakers rated at no less than 50W.. I'm supposing it meant RMS. I was looking to spend around $100-200(maybe a tad more if I must) for each(front and rear).. Retail or eBay money within the next 1-3 weeks...

Should I get components or full range.. or does it even matter? I'm not really an audiophile... So I don't need boston acoustics range stuff.. but just enough to meet the requirements while not sounding like crap.

Sub/Amp question (post #8)

[RningOnFumes]

....actually, you might be able to run it on your stock speakers...I am.


I've an older model- the deh-p80. It's like 23 rms and 60x4. Sound is spetacular and I've had it in for a couple months now.

If and when they blow up, I'll get some aftermarkets, for now, they play really nice.



So until someone else chimes in, just know that if you want them in for now, they should be okay....hell you're replacing the stocks anyway right? Who cares if they blow up.


Edit: And I am in no way an audiophile either.

[gideon1331]

With audio, its far worse to have too few watts than too many. With too few both the speaker and the headunit's amplifier can become damaged from clipping.

In regards to the number of watts, Ill take the words of my boss who has been doing pro audio systems for 23 years: "the more the merrier." It's just your responsibility to not turn the volume up to a point where you overextend the speaker and seperate the voice coil from the magnetic driver, which is escentially blowing the speaker. Your stock speakers will be fine. In fact for most good aftermarket speakers you would need an extra amp to get good sound.

[Corollacrazy42]

Your headunit should be fine playing stock speakers. I have had mine on it several different times and I have even push them way into distortion just to see if I could break them. And thurns out stock speakers aren't quite as weak as I would have imagined.

I would say try the stocks out and see what there like. If they dont sound good you can always remove them and get new ones. I know just adding the new headunit to my stock speakers boosted quality quite a bit! But I do believe it is different in different cars. My chevy prizm speakers kinda always sounded like crap, so wouldnt ya know it! they sounded like crap with a different headunit too lol. That wattage rating thing means nothing really, unless you care about your speakers not blowing up, but like I said. I have tried and I wasnt able to blow them.

[Delay_FTB]

Should not be a problem to run stockers. Actually, thats why companies put amps in their HU's now. Many people just upgrade their deck to get something better than stock (tape to CD or CD w/ MP3 or Dolphins or whatever) so this way they don't need to buy that extra amp for their speakers. You'd be hardpressed to find decks w/o amps in them anymore (ran across an old Clarion/Addzest the other day on Ebay without an internal amp, thinking I should buy it!). You'll more than likely be fine, and if it comes down to it, you can always upgrade later if you really want.

[Ruffrydasean]

OK... I don't remember what the fronts are in my car, but I know they're pioneers, and the rears are stock. People ask me all the time if I had a subwoofer, until I actually hooked one up and they could tell the diff. It sounds great for what it is now.. but I do like to crank it pretty loud right now... A point right before the bass and sound starts getting distorted and sounding blown-like.

I think the fronts are in my sig..cardomain link.

[Azn_Stock_Camry]

hey, yeah you can run on your stock speakers, you will probably hear a difference from just adding a headunit. time to get subs !

[Ruffrydasean]

I have a 12" Sony sub and a Kenwood 7201 Amp.. but I think the fuse keeps blowing.. thats another thing I wanted to ask but was too lazy to actually make a thread.

I have 4 gauge wire for the Power and ground. 8 for the wires connecting the sub and 16 or something for the remote wire... I had a 60Amp fuse or something

Amp Specs
Features

MOSFET Power Supply
Torroidal Noise Suppression Filter
Copper EE Core Power Transformer
Dual Secondary Capacitors
Ground Isolation Input Circuit
Cast Aluminum Sandblast Finish Heatsink
Variable (50-200 Hz) 18 dB / Octave Low-Pass Crossover
Switchable (150 Hz) 12 dB / Octave High-Pass Crossover
Switchable 12 dB Bass Boost at 90 Hz
Gold-Plated Preamp Inputs & Outputs
High and Low Level Inputs
2 Ohms Stereo / 4 Ohms Mono Stable
Blue Triangle Power Indicator
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power and Speaker Terminals
2-Channel Amp SpecificationsAmplifier Type: 2-channel
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08 %
Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 460W x 1 @ 14.4V
Speaker Level Inputs: yes
Preamp Outputs: yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0 or 12 dB
Frequency Response: 10-45,000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps

Sub:
five-sided polypropylene cone
rubber surround
frequency response 18-2,000 Hz
power range 90-350 watts RMS
peak power handling 1200 watts
sensitivity 89 dB
top-mount depth 6-5/16"
sealed box volume: 1.0 cubic feet
ported box volume: 1.58

What size fuse do I need?

[WhiteRabbit]

isnt this what your amp says???:

Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps

[Delay_FTB]

Originally Posted by WhiteRabbit

isnt this what your amp says???:

Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps

I was just thinking the same thing...

[Ruffrydasean]

Those are fuses physically IN the amp.. right next to the Power/Ground/Remote. My other amp has those too.. yours doesn't?

I meant what size fuse should I use for the inline connection between the battery and amp???

[Ruffrydasean]

Never mind.. I think I got it... I did some more reading and reading and reading... I need to use a smaller AGU Inline fuse for the power wire.. but I gotta wait til I get my car back anyways...

[Delay_FTB]

Not really accurate, but I believe some people essentially add together the total of their on-amp fuses and use that as the value for the in-line-fuse-holder fuse.

[Corollacrazy42]

Well even still.. your fuse shouldnt be blowing.. unless you have the wires flipped. I accidently did this in my car like 3 times, and finally realized my friend had flipped a positive and a negative around. Dumbass... haha