Now, when you guys are done laughing, I am an EXTREME newbie at this sort of thing, and wanna practice on cheap stuff before I move on to bigger, more expensive things...
My questions are, 1) What would I use to run these things, and 2) if I wanted to turn them off and on independent of the HU (which I don't have, yet), how would I do that? I.e., run 2 of the four, all four, or none... 3) I'm thinking that I would need a new alternator, would I?
I intend to make a fiberglass box in the wheelwells of my trunk (which I am really good at, as I have made several for other people), and cover it with carpet so as to hide them while keeping my trunk as stock-looking as possible, so that no one knows they're there except me, and well you guys...
Is it do-able? Bear in mind that I am looking to go about $150-$200 for the amp(s)...
Oh, yeah, I almost forgot... '96 Camry I4 (at least I know it's I4 and not V4 )
Last edited by nevanerviss; 08-27-2006 at 09:13 PM.
Dont get those speakers, you can cop some namebrand stuff for that price.
ill answer question 3. and let others do 1-2. I heard that the alt in a car like a camry puts out like 60-70 amps or so, i think someone might have said 80...someone confirm this for me. Plus then you battery can serve some power also. Watt wise thatd prolly be in the neighborhood over 900-1100w. Your car can handle this power as long as your not running everything(AC, headlights on, anything of that sort). At this power your lights will dim so you'll want to get a capacitor or do a 2nd battery rig to help keep the draw constant(no voltage drops). Either that or do the big 3 upgrade(Thicker alt/grnd wires)
Ok, lets get started. I'll try to give you as much info as I possibly can, I'm no expert, but I've been dabbling in car audio for quite sometime. Since your new to it all I'll try to sum things up for you and get you moving.
First on the list. Check out www.BCAE1.com when you go there you will see why everyone will tell you to check that site out.
Next we need more input from you and what you want to do with your car. Usually when I install or upgrade systems for people I always ask them why they want a new system.
Do they want to compete in SPL comps or do they just want to upgrade the current components in the car and add a sub for some nice bass or do they want extreme SQ or just a bad ass front stage. (SQ = sound quality SPL= Sound pressure level)
So which do you want?
Once you figure out what you want to do with the system and have it planned out you need to start picking components. For me this used to be really hard becuase like you, I didn't want to break the bank and throw all my money into my car so I decided to find cheap ways to do things and guess what... BAD IDEA. I regret it now.
My advice to you, don't cheap out. If you can't afford a particular mod, don't cheap out becuase you're just going to end up replacing whatever it is you bought. (Sorry if im preaching)
The sticky includes a great list of makers for subs, amps and components, I would suggest checking that out. My person recommendations
Amps: Pheonix Gold, Zapco, Sound Stream, Elemental Designs, Rockford and MTX
Subs: Elemental Designs, Image Dynamics, Adire Audio, RE, Sound Stream and JL Audio
Components: Elemental Designs, Infinity, MB Quart, Focal, CDT and Alpine
Googling those names will get your some results. I would also recommend checking out various Car Audio forums for lots more information on what components people are using and how they have everything setup.
Once you have what you want to buy, you need to check out the amp rating VS. your speaker ratings. Remember when buying you need to look at RMS values... don't even bother with peaks.
Now lets say you find a nice sub its RMS is 600 Watts and its a DVC @ 4 ohms. That means you can wire the sub up for a 1 ohm load. So the amp you choose will have to output anywhere from 100 - 600 watts @ 1 ohm, there are many. This is just one example
If you did not understand that again, once you read through www.bcae1.com you will understand. Otherwise ill post up, im terrible at explaining these things sometimes.
As far as your switching goes, I wouldn't bother switching everything independtly. If i'm understanding correclt you want to be able to switch on and off your subs, and interior speakers? If so you could just run switches on each amps remote wire... but again it realy its not needed. You can always just cut the bass off from your head unit.
Depending on the size of your system you really won't need an alt for what you want... but doing the BIG3 upgrade is something you should do before starting the system
I hope this has helped you out a little. It is a bit late for me so If there are any mistakes then im sorry. Again read through www.bcae1.com and check out these sites below for lots and lots and LOTS of car audio info. Good Luck, have fun and if you have further questions do post them up.
Now, when you guys are done laughing, I am an EXTREME newbie at this sort of thing, and wanna practice on cheap stuff before I move on to bigger, more expensive things...
My questions are, 1) What would I use to run these things, and 2) if I wanted to turn them off and on independent of the HU (which I don't have, yet), how would I do that? I.e., run 2 of the four, all four, or none... 3) I'm thinking that I would need a new alternator, would I?
I intend to make a fiberglass box in the wheelwells of my trunk (which I am really good at, as I have made several for other people), and cover it with carpet so as to hide them while keeping my trunk as stock-looking as possible, so that no one knows they're there except me, and well you guys...
Is it do-able? Bear in mind that I am looking to go about $150-$200 for the amp(s)...
Oh, yeah, I almost forgot... '96 Camry I4 (at least I know it's I4 and not V4 )
Ok, Curry sort of got things started.
1) X@ on going to BCAE1.com. In general, read all you can about everything. The more you understand the basics, the easier it will be to grasp the complexities and eventually upgrade yadda yadda yadda.
2) I believe the stock alternator on most Camry's is 80 amps. I believe that your engine is the 5sefe, right? An easy way to tell amps on cars is to look for replacement parts (www..com - Search your car, then look under the "Engine - Electrical" category and see what they rate other alts. as.) However, for a beginner system, I wouldn't say there would be a need to go over about 500 watts total RMS, so with that, an alternator upgrade wouldn't be necessary (See This concurrent thread for more information regarding system basics.).
3) More Later, I'm outta time.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
Thanks guys... Here's the thing: I don't really listen to a lot of rap, I'm more of a jazz head, however, I do listen to a LOT of Detroit House music and for that, I need bass... There is a small amount of old school rap that will pass through these speakers, and I'm not looking to beat down the block, but I want the power there when the mood strikes...
I read the BCAE site, which was the first thing I did even before I posted, and all I really got from it is that RMS is more important than Max output... Other than that, I left the site more confused than informed...
I intend to upgrade the 6X9s in the rear deck, and the 6.5(?) in the doors, and I also would like them powered by a small amp as well... For the trunk, however, I want THUNDER, but I don't want anything like those 18s that you have, Curry... That's OBSCENE!!! 12s would be fine for me, if I don't get the 4 8s...
I don't want to spend more than $500 for the entire setup, not including the HU... I would also like to ability to switch the amp for the subs on or off, for whenever I decide to listen to some Stetsasonic or BDP, I wanna be able to bang that shit... Not all the time, just every now and then...
For your last question. The headunit should be capable of lowering and raising the sub levels.
To keep it simple I think you should just shoot for one 12". You can get a decent 12 for about 100 or less, then you can use the rest of the money for a good amp. or split it up and put about 200 and 200 amp and sub, sub a little less then the amp. (you dont wanna cheap out as much on the amp as the sub).
Anywyas I think the guys here laid it on you a little too heavy being that your a noob to audio. You could probably find a nice deal on a car audio site like EliteCarAudio.com
But please, please for the love of god.. if you do anything, do not get those off ebay. Just a complete waste. You could get a nice system going for $500, you just need to scout out a deal. One i know off the top of my head you could get off the internet is a Infinity kappa perfect 12. They are some good SQ, and can get pretty loud. But if your just looking for some nice hard bass you could look into maybe an older style MTX sub. Maybe an MTX 6000, or 8000. Idk i'll put some more info in later when I have time
But really knowing fiberglassing is going to make your system pretty sweet. Most people arent sure how do this very well.
I've been building fiberglass enclosures for a few years now, and I just decided to build on for myself... I'm not much of a wiring woman, I just know how to build things... I would like to try a pair pf 12s... What size amp should I get to run them? If it's a pretty straight-forward process, I can wire them myself, but if it's a big hairy deal, I'll pay someone to do it... I realize that you guys can only tell me about what amp to use only after I give you the rundown on the subs, but on average, say with two 200 RMS subs, how big of an amp will I need?
Sorry for the cut-off post, I had to leave work early (job interviews).
Anyway, as far as shutting off your sub amp and whatnot, yes, a decent HU with the proper controls can do that for you, so there wont be a need to add an external switch or anything to that effect.
$500 bucks for a simple set up (minus HU) is pretty easy. You're definitely an SQ oriented person, so a bulk of your money should be spent on a decent set of comps. up front (and a good install will help too). Ignore the rear fill, and let your sub(s) do the work in the back.
Are there any other constraints we're working with here (space requirements, overall fabrication restrictions, etc...)? Becuase depending on how far you're willing to go with all this, you could fiberglass some kicks and pillars for your comps, build a basic amp rack and box for your trunk, and from there it'd just be running the wire (there's the HU too, but thats another story ATM).
And the summation of my previous post is that you should not need a new alternator.
You can go the e-bay route, but make sure you're getting quality stuff at a good price. I'd say somewhere in the $150 to $200 range for comps. A decent 12" (provided you're comfortable with an "underground" brand, or even a relatively cheap mainstream one) you can pick up for $50-$150 thereabouts. Laving the rest for amps and wiring. Maybe going a little over budget, but if you can find a decent 5 channel, you could even run active setup (with the right HU) and tune to your liking a little more easily (or 3 channels and you could go passive).
Subs - Everyone and their mom has a brand of subs anymore, so make sure its a reputible one before you buy. I think one 12" in a good box would suit your jazz tastes and your House and Rap tastes as well. A sealed box will give you the SQ you're after, and with adequate power, almost any sub will get loud enough for you. For reference (and I say this a lot, but bear with me) I have two 12" Alpine Type E subs (low end of Alpine's lineup) with about 125 watts going to each, and although my box is ported, it gets so ***damn loud its rediculous. I wont be winning any SPL competitions, but it gets plenty loud for my listening pleasure.
Also, check out the www.jlaudio.com tutorial section to see about wiring guides for subs. Anyway, here's some decent ones on the cheap: Diamond D112D2 (Dual 2 ohm Voice Coil I believe) - $51.90 + Shipping Alpine Type S - SWS-1222D - $65.00 + Shipping (Dual 2 Ohm) Eclipse SW6200 - $99.00 (Dual 4 Ohm) Image Dynamics - ID12 v.3 - $99.98 - (avaliable in 2 & 4 Ohms) - Reknown as some of the best subs period, especially for SQ (which is why they're currently unavaliable).
Yadda Yadda Yadda - This list can go on forever. Check out Arc Audio, ID, Elemental Designs, Phoenix Gold, MB Quart, Dayton (Parts Express House Brand), etc...
So what, so far we've gone through about $200 give or take with shipping and what not, leaving wiring and amps to go. And like previously mentioned, check other car audio forums, or car forums in general, and find their For Sale sections, and you can usually pick up deal on everything: HU's, Comps, Subs, Amps, Wiring, etc....
Amps
This can be tricky, because this is a very important component (not that the others aren't) in any system. A quality amp can have all kinds of bells and whistles, and whether you think you need them or not will require you to find out what is what, and what you'll want or not want in an amp. Power wise, most Components need anywhere between 50 - 150 watts and subs anywhere between 200-500 (for the proposed setup). Like I said, you can run everything seperate (three different amps; highs, mids and sub), off of two amps (Comps and Sub) or an all in one solution (3 or 5 channels depending on wiring active or passive - search for the terms if you don't know about them). Like subs, there are millions (probably) of brands. Essentially, all you need to do is match wattage values, and look for a few other key specs (THD, SNR, Ohms, Brigability, etc...) and if you go to www.cardomain.com, you can click on the terms and they'll tell you more about them, or you can search around on crutchfield, or whereever. For some examples, well: Phoenix Gold Octane R 5 Channel - $233.33 + Shipping
You could even do a 4- channel amp, bridge one pair of channels for a sub, and use the other two for the comps, essentially making it a 3-channel amp. Alpine MRP-F450 - $184.50 + Shipping
And again, the list goes on and on here.
Check out www.Knukonceptz.com for wiring, they also have an e-bay store, though prices don't really differ. Also, there are tons of people on e-bay that sell wiring too. For the most part, wiring is wiring. I use 16 AWG wiring for my comps and 12 AWG for my subs (I also use Twisted Pair wiring, as it is supposed to help sheild from noise). You'll probably want about 4 AWG for power wire (unless you plan on putting more power in later, then you might want to just install 0 AWG so that you don't have to worry about it later.) You'll need an Inline Fuse Holder as well, and depending on what amp setup, maybe a distribution block, and of course, misc. connectors and whatnot. Also, RCA cables, well, you'll need some well sheilded ones, and again KnuKonceptz doesn't miss with those, there's also Stinger wiring, and other brands.
Any other questions? Likes dislikes? Specifics, clarification, let me know, PM me or whatever.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
I've been building fiberglass enclosures for a few years now, and I just decided to build on for myself... I'm not much of a wiring woman, I just know how to build things... I would like to try a pair pf 12s... What size amp should I get to run them? If it's a pretty straight-forward process, I can wire them myself, but if it's a big hairy deal, I'll pay someone to do it... I realize that you guys can only tell me about what amp to use only after I give you the rundown on the subs, but on average, say with two 200 RMS subs, how big of an amp will I need?
Just mach your wattages. If you have a sub that needs 200 watts RMS, find an amp that puts out 200 watts RMS (actually, a little above, cause many people like a little head room to avoid clipping and to have that excess power reserve, etc...).
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
Well, He's selling the whole setup for $500. Don't know your location or anything, but you might be able to work out a deal for the whole setup (depending on if it'd fit your car or not too). Its a well built setup with good equipment. All you would need would be some comps up front.
$235 shipped on two JL 10's and an Alpine MRP 240 isn't a bad deal at all. Thats gonna eat half you budget still requiring you to get some comps and a sub amp. Could work out I suppose. If you're really that interested in it, don't let us hold you back.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
Well, to be honest, someone made an offer on the box, and I have something else in mind for the sub enclosures... Ultimately, what I will build will be something that makes my trunk look completely stock, and not sacrifice my spare tire well... All the things I've built so far have been completely hidden from view so when the trunk/hatch is opened, it looks like nothing's there... If I need the other amp as well, then I'll negotiate for that, too... I remember seeing on a website where they have comps for $150, and if I remember correctly, 2 crossovers are included; I don't remember the name at this minute, but I will find out and get back to you... What do crosovers do?
Well, to be honest, someone made an offer on the box, and I have something else in mind for the sub enclosures... Ultimately, what I will build will be something that makes my trunk look completely stock, and not sacrifice my spare tire well... All the things I've built so far have been completely hidden from view so when the trunk/hatch is opened, it looks like nothing's there... If I need the other amp as well, then I'll negotiate for that, too... I remember seeing on a website where they have comps for $150, and if I remember correctly, 2 crossovers are included; I don't remember the name at this minute, but I will find out and get back to you... What do crosovers do?
Duh, totally forgot you're doing your own fab work.
I'd say if you can get subs and both amps for ~$350 or so, jump on it (provided it is all in good working order and you feel comfortable doing so). That'll leave you about ~150 for comps.
Comps, well, provided they're a set will come with:
2 tweeters
2 Mids
2 Crossovers
+ any misc. hardware or wiring the manufactururer is so inclined to include.
Crossovers act as a filtration type device. High pitched sounds come from high frequencies, and low (bass) sounds come from low frequencies. Tweeters reproduce highs, mids mids, and subs produce lows. All a crossover does, essentially, is prevent certain frequencies from getting to certain speakers. The xover that will come with your comps has probably bet designed to do this at certain frequencies (tweets - anywhere from 20Khz down to about 5KHZ or less most times; Subs usually pick up anywhere from 20 Hz (notice this isn't Khz) to about 200 Hz; mids usually pick up the leftover inbetween (probably how they get their name)). Now this isn't a steadfast rule, as different listeners enjoy different sounds, so people fiddle with settings and xover slopes to get the sound they are after.
Get to a stereo shop by you and listen to their stuff and see what you like.
In the end you're gonna need a HU, Comp Set, Amp for Comps, Sub(s), Sub Amp, and then installation stuff from there on out.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
)
.com
Thank you SSSSSOOOOOOO much... You have been SO helpful... Marry me... 
You are awesome!! I'll let you know what I end up with...
Linear Mode
