And I'm planning to do the Big 3 and upgrade OEM wires. I'm planning just to order all of one gauge. Is 1/0 the same as 0AWG? I'm just planning to order all 1/0 wires. Would I need a fuse for the Big 3?
Where would be the best place to order the above items. I think I need gold plated round terminals for the 0AWG wires as well. I was considering order it from: http://www.knukonceptz.com/index.cfm
Any other recommedations?
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2007 Toyota Camry SE 2GR-FE
Retrofit TSX HID Projectors | TRD Lowering Springs | Smoked LED Tails | Custom Apexi WS2 Catback Exhaust | BlueBatMobile Eyelids| UR Front Strut Bar | UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar | K&N Short Ram Intake| Kenwood DNX8120 In-dash | Lexus IS350 18" Wheels | Toyota Japan JDM Vent Visors | IS-F Black Leather Shift Knob
Many people don't seem to put fuses on the wires, but its recommended to fuse the wire going from your alt. to your batt. (with a fuse thats a little larger than your alt. as far as amps go).
Personally, I really like Knu. Good customer service and very competative prices. Outside of that, if you have like a welder supply shop nearby, that might be another option to look into. And there's always E-bay.
I think for the upgrade, I wouldn't go too much bigger than the stock wires, the biggest of which i think, is 4 AWG. I think you could order some 1/0 AWG for the Big 3, and some 4 AWG for the stock wire replacements.
And give us some write ups if you think about it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
The ring opening terminals are 5/16" in diamater, would that generally be big enough for everything?
Don't know about the ring terminals. They vary, and I have yet to do the Big 3 on my ride (gen 4).
Knu Wiring is usually sold by the foot unless otherwise specified (you can buy spools, and RCA's come in specified lengths), so measure how many feet you'll think you'll need, and when you go to order, input that many feet, where it says "Quantity".
Gen 4's with the V6 have an 80 amp alternator (so you might go for a 80-90 amp fuse.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
Don't know about the ring terminals. They vary, and I have yet to do the Big 3 on my ride (gen 4).
Knu Wiring is usually sold by the foot unless otherwise specified (you can buy spools, and RCA's come in specified lengths), so measure how many feet you'll think you'll need, and when you go to order, input that many feet, where it says "Quantity".
Gen 4's with the V6 have an 80 amp alternator (so you might go for a 80-90 amp fuse.
I'm not really sure why you need a fuse for your alternator considering the Gen 4 has a 100amp alternator fuse inside the engine fuse box... Unless for some reason you need to protect the battery or something, because... aren't you supposed to leave the stock wiring and just run the new wire overtop? So realistically you have done nothing but change the size of the wire... So the fuse already protecting the alternator should still serve the same purpose.. right?
If I run alternator to battery positive directly, then I may want a fuse, if I run it through the stock fuse box, then I don't really need to.
I can't quite find which is the negative or positve ends on the alternator. I'll look up service manuals to see which is the right one. I think the engine grounds to the chasis twice, once in the intake manifold and one between the intake and alternator.
__________________
2007 Toyota Camry SE 2GR-FE
Retrofit TSX HID Projectors | TRD Lowering Springs | Smoked LED Tails | Custom Apexi WS2 Catback Exhaust | BlueBatMobile Eyelids| UR Front Strut Bar | UR 23mm Rear Sway Bar | K&N Short Ram Intake| Kenwood DNX8120 In-dash | Lexus IS350 18" Wheels | Toyota Japan JDM Vent Visors | IS-F Black Leather Shift Knob
If I run alternator to battery positive directly, then I may want a fuse, if I run it through the stock fuse box, then I don't really need to.
I can't quite find which is the negative or positve ends on the alternator. I'll look up service manuals to see which is the right one. I think the engine grounds to the chasis twice, once in the intake manifold and one between the intake and alternator.
I was just looking somewhere (probably in the Cam section) and someone had a good shot of the pos. post on the alt.
And why wouldn't you want to fuse it? No such thing as being "too safe", especially about electrical surges. Unless you're confident you enjoy 10 lb paper weights that look like amplifiers and such. Not saying it would be that drastic, but its always a possibility.
I imagine the stock fuse in the box is for the stock wiring (which will only allow a certain current flow, which is partially the reason for adding more wire to begin with, right?). You're adding aftermarket wiring, so wouldn't it make sense to add an aftermarket fuse? Its not like adding the extra fuse is going to hurt anything.
Now that i think about it, you almost would require the AM fuse if you're wiring direct to the batt. If the main fuse is to blow, and you still have the circuit being completed by the Big 3 wire you added, the current (and its' possible spikes) will still be avaliable, so you would want to fuse that connection too.
Some people do it, some people don't. I was just saying its something to think about
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
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