I just thought I would post and see what equipment that everyone has been using. Here is a breakdown of my own stereo equipment from over the years. I will try to keep them in order of older to newer.
1993-1999 I was too young to remember what model numbers
1 Pioneer cassette player, 1 pioneer cd player, 2 kenwood cd players
1 Pioneer 2 channel amp, 1 sony two channel amp, 1 california 2 channel amp
3 pair of pioneer 6x9's, 1 pair of kenwood 6x9's, one pioneer 10'' sub
1999-2007 My memory hasn't quite gone. I recall most of these. Of course the
manuals help.
HU's Eclipse 5303R cd player (1999)
Eclipse E5507MDT (1999) Japanese vers. 5303r, 4 mini disk- built in dsp
Eclipse 5506 cd player (2000) copper chasis, non powered, 1st 8volt HU
Eclipse 55430 cd player (2000) non copper and powered, 5 volt HU
Eclipse 8053 cd player (2003) 16 volt , 24 bit bur brown, built in dsp
Eclipse cd8454 cd player (2004) 8 volt, 24 bit burr brown, builit in dsp, mp3
Eclipse cd8455 cd player (2005) improved crossover and peq from 2004
Eclipse avn2454 navigation (2004) eclipse 1st american in dash navigation
Alpine DVA7996 dvd player (2003) in dash dvd with dsp and crossover
Amps A/D/S PH16 6 channel (old school) 6 x 55 at 4 ohm (still my favorite amp)
PPI A404 art series (old school) 4x 55 at 4 ohm (not in league with ads)
Nakamichi PA1004 (2003 ?) 4x50 at 4 ohm (dissapointing for price)
Eclipse 3322 (1999) 2x80 at 4 ohm (very clean-great for mid and highs)
Eclipe 34230 (2000) 370x2 at 4 ohm ( I actualy forgot I still had this)
(2) Eclipse PA5422 (2004 and 2005) 75x4 at 4 ohms (best 4 channel period)
speakers Eclipse 8963 (2000) 6.5 point source (very nice budget speaker)
(2) Eclipse 8062 (2002) 6.5 comps (ditch the crossover) made 3 way
Eclipse SA8394 (2004) 6x9 point source (new tweeter was too harsh)
JL XR650-CSI (2005) 6.5 comps (One of the best 300-400 dollar pairs)
subwoofer (2)Eclipse 86080.4 (2000) 8" sub (if you want midbass, buy a 7 or 8)
Eclipse 8808 DVC (2000) 8", 1st aluminum sub
Eclipse 8715.4 (2001) 15" sub (87 series was the best ecipse SQ)
Eclipse SW7504DVC (2004) 10" (decent SQ, required way too much volume)
EQ's Eclipse 21010 (2002) 5 band graphic and 1 parametric
Eclipse EQ2102 (2004) 30 band 1/3 octave graphic (passive still beats active)
cd changer Toyota (2000) 6 disk (eclipse will control toyota cd changers)
wiring Stinger Expert series (well worth the money. Eliminated all ground loops)
Stinger flat speaker wire (hard to put terminals on but great for installation)
sound deadoning Dynomat extreme (at the very least, dyno the doors)
Now is the time for me to reflect on how I became so poor. Maybe I should take up a cheaper addiciton. I am thinking boobie bars.
Alpine CDA-9805 HU
Pioneer DEH-P44 HU
Pioneer 4x6 speakers
Alpine 6x9 type S speakers
Jensen 8" sub tube
10" Rockford Fosgate sub old punch style
coming soon: Kicker SoloBaric S12L5 12" sub
Audiovox 200watt rampage amp
Clarion Pro Audio APA-450 400watt amp
Garmin StreetPilot II GPS system
Whistler Radar detector
shhh........a police scanner lol
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'96 Camry I-4 (4 engines later)
-Pioneer head unit, 10" rockford fosgate(old punch style), 400 watt Clarion Pro Audio Amp, 6x9" Alpine Type-S
'97 XLE Camry V6(Stock)
'98 Chevy Cavalier R.I.P.
'02 Trans Am WS6 LS1 (600 H.P)
Damn, Mike, that's a long ass list. I'll see what I can remember.
BTW, you still have this
Eclipe 34230 (2000) 370x2 at 4 ohm ( I actualy forgot I still had this)
Wanna get rid of it?
Headunits/AV Units
Pioneer DEHP6000R
Pioneer AVXP7000CD 7" flip out screen, cd player, with AVMP8000R brain
Pioneer DEX-P1R
Pioneer DEH-P880PRS
Eclipse CD8053
Clarion DRZ9255...bling
Clarion HXD10
Amps
Old Sony XPlod, first amp
Kicker Impulse something
Audio Art, couple of different ones, forgot the model numbers
PPI Art Series A100.2, A300
Esoteric Audio D5064
Helix HXA500Q
Arc Audio 2100CXL's (2)
Audison LRx1.400 LRx4.300, LRx6Sr
Xetec Gravity 4G600
MB Quart QAA4250
Next Audio amps, 3 of them, cant recall model numbers right now
Clarion APA something
Rockford punch amps(3+)
Phaze Audio(Butler) TDB475 Tube Amp
Diamond Audio D5600.2
Monitor 1 MK2.70 (2)
JL 300/4, 500/1
Zapco Reference 650
Speakers
Seas Lotus Reference 6.5" Component set, AL tweeter
Peerless Exclusive 7"
MB Quart QSD Tweeters
Dayton Reference RS225-4
Boehlender and Grabner (BG) Neo3's
Helix Components
Seas CA18RNX mids
Morel HCW10 "Midbass" lol
North Creek Tweeters
Many more I can't remember right now
Sound Deadening Elemental Designs eDead V1 (Don't remember how much I originally ordered, but I think it was just a roll or two; used for my trunk) Second Skin Audio Spectrum Sludge (2 Gallons - 1 used for doors and rear inner wheel wells, 1 unused)
Haha, funny that I had to scrounge up all my wiring and install accessories to make a decent list. To be added to the list ASAP: Arc Flatline, MBQ 2400, Upgraded Wiring and more sound deadening (Raammat) and Ensolite.
P.S. - I think this could be a good product reference guide, say if someone has a product, and also some questions, they can find who has had that product before, and know who to ask the questions to.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2Xrunner
With a bangin sound system, Carputer with online connection, 1+ lateral G's, and a Twizler Dispenser. That's pimp right there.
Not a bad idea on the product referance. At the least it will give search options for new users. Delay, don't sweat the list length. I've had 29 and a half years, and two empty pockets to work on it. Sorry CAM, the 34230 won't be up for sale. I actualy couldn't afford it in 2000. I had to do a trade with a local shop three years ago. It was in mint condition (demo board) is one of my all time favorite amps. When I get some money, I plan on using it to power a set of Dynaudio's. You have had some very nice amps. What were your favorite SQ? I have a co-worker that use to be a Audison technician till 2005. They make some very nice products. What are your opinions on the DRZ? I love the 5506, but new HU's are offering increadible sound for a fraction of the premium line prices.
Polk Audio DB6750 6.75" Components
Polk Audio DB690 6x9"
Subs:
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1D 10"
Wiring:
Stinger 1/0ga Power/Ground Wire
Stinger 4ga Power/Ground Wire
Stinger 150 Amp Fuse
Stinger Distribution Block (1) 1/0 to (2) 4 gauge
Stinger 12ga speaker wire (for subs)
Random 16ga Home Entertainment speaker wire
Had 130amp Highlander alternator but got rid of it because it made goofy noises.
Boy do I wanna change up though. I'm pretty pleased with the Headunit I have now and the Polk Audio, they have been working great. I'd really rather get a new sub setup and amp setup. The 2 channel never seemed to put out the power I wanted, or maybe it was just the subs. The Infinities definatly sound nice, but they arent really too loud. I'd like them to be able to do both. The 2 channel has never given me any problems and is a really nice 4 channel for a starter. But I do feel like my speakers could handle much more then they are receiving (45x4) roughly thats RMS power.
Btw can I hook up my 4 channel to run to channels to the front comps and get rid of my rears? I'm not sure what ohm it would run if I tried that so I was wondering if that is even possible. Or would I just have to get a small 2 channel to do that?.
Also if I understand it correctly, I can just run a channel a piece to each midbass and each tweeter to get the same 45x4 to each right? But I would need my receiver to do the crossing over? (which I'm pretty sure it can do, because it has a pro mode with specific front and rear settings) But let me know, i'm kind of unsure at the moment.
These are the max specs I believe (14.4v)
70 WATTS X 4 INTO 4 OHMS
140 WATTS X 2 INTO 2 OHMS
280 WATTS X 2 INTO 4 OHMS BRIDGED
Thx
Sry I dont have as much wide range stuff to show off lol. I just got my stuff a year ago. But I have already learned alot.
If your HU has a pro mode, then it may be able to do active. However, I would bridge your 4 channel and place it onto your Polks with the factory crossover. You will probably have to decrease the gains, but it will sound much better than sending 45 watts to the mids. I am not sure if that model of Polks uses a bi amping crossover. If so, then the crossover will allow the mid and tweet amp to see 4 ohms. Without the crossovers, going fully active from the HU, the woofer is probably going to be 6 ohms. This would lower your RMS of the amp from the 4 ohm ratting. Just bridge the amp and see what you think of the Polks.
Also if I understand it correctly, I can just run a channel a piece to each midbass and each tweeter to get the same 45x4 to each right? But I would need my receiver to do the crossing over? (which I'm pretty sure it can do, because it has a pro mode with specific front and rear settings) But let me know, i'm kind of unsure at the moment
I agree with Mike, just bridge the amp. It will sound alot better. No Kenwood headunits can do a fully active setup(that I'm aware of). You could however use a combination of the headunit's available crossovers and the amp's built in crossovers, if the amp/headunit's have the right crossovers, but it usually doesn't sound nearly as good as using a good crossover unit.
If you really wanted to go active, get a processor/electronic crossover, or a headunit that has 3 way crossovers, but you will definitely notice an improvement in sound if you bridge the amp to power your front components. If you must have rearfill, use the headunit's rear channels to power your coaxials.
Deadening the front doors and using ensolite foam can make an even huger improvement in the sound quality.
Where are your tweeters mounted right now? Try getting double sided tape and try mounting the tweeters in the A Pillar about 2-3" above the highest point on the dash. Try it with the tweeters pointed towards each other and try it with them more on axis. See what sounds better for you. Typically(but not always) metal dome tweeters will probably sound best off axis. Fabric Dome's, more on axis(pointing inward towards driver/passenger.
Also try them down in the kicks pointing towards the dome light. Try a couple of different places and see what sounds best.
Make sure the mids are mounted to a MDF wood baffle and the baffle bolted down to the door with ensolite between baffle and door for a good seal.
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The ratio of people to cake is too big. - Milton
Last edited by cam2Xrunner; 09-21-2006 at 12:06 AM.
Cool assortment of pics CAM. Obviously, the boobs were my favorite. Otherwise I loved you custom dash and carputer. Do you do your own work? Were those dynaudio mids I saw?
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What equipment have you owned?
"Skoolin' the unlearned!"
Crapmry
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