Currently I am in the progress of piecing together a system. I have been getting some help from Cam2Xrunner on things, but he suddenly stopped responding to me (reasons unknown). Now I am just going to ask you about the few remaining questions I have. First of all I will describe the system I am creating. The system will consist of a set of component speakers (non custom) and one 12" sub no rear speakers. Thus I will be going passive. I will be running these all off of a bridged 5 channel. Here is what I have so far.
Alpine CDA-9815 $210
Arc Audio 5150xxk $300
ID12D4 v3 $65
Wiring from: (including some stuff for a friend and a ground wire and big 3 kit for me) http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...;f=10;t=089804 $82
and Knu Konceptz $75
RAAMmat (1 roll) and Ensolite (3yds) $150
Basically all I have left to get now is some Comps and an Enclosure. Let me know what you think I should do about these. I don't really know what comps I get, but I am definately not partial to used. Everything I got so far is used. Only thing thing I know on the comps is that mounting depth can be ~2.8" probably upwards to 3" not completely sure. By the way I have a 2002 Celica GTS. I will definately have these on some 3/4" baffles though. The enclosure I am not really sure on and I am open to suggestions all the way as well. I was thinking about just getting a normal sealed box. I was also thinking about getting this from Marv. I kinda want to make a amp mount and baffles either myself or by Marv as well. I have heard of him many times from people, but how do I contact him and get to his site? I think I did this a long time ago, but I don't remember anymore. All help is greatly appreciated on this guys. Now for a few questions. I was wondering if I should keep a 1 farad cap since I have it already or just sell it? I believe the the general conscensous will be to get rid of it because I think I heard from my bro that you all believe that they are junk and basically do nothing. Just wanted to confirm my suspicion. Another question that I don't think is a big deal, but I was just wondering on is on fuses. Does is matter if a fuse is bigger than it needs to be? The amp that I purchased draws 80amps max current according to the manual, which is on Arc Audio's site, and has 90amps worth of fuses on it. Is it ok to use a 100amp fuse in this situation or does it ever become overkill? I most likely will have more questions in the future but I will ask them later. haha This should be enough for now. Let me know!
Currently I am in the progress of piecing together a system. I have been getting some help from Cam2Xrunner on things, but he suddenly stopped responding to me (reasons unknown).
14 hour workdays, opening a new shop. I got a little busy, my apologies.
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I was also thinking about getting this from Marv. I kinda want to make a amp mount and baffles either myself or by Marv as well. I have heard of him many times from people, but how do I contact him and get to his site?
Your best bet is to call him, his # is 1-831-383-0308 (he doesn't mind it being posted)
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I think I did this a long time ago, but I don't remember anymore. All help is greatly appreciated on this guys. Now for a few questions. I was wondering if I should keep a 1 farad cap since I have it already or just sell it?
Sell it, buy an Odyssey battery with the money.
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I believe the the general conscensous will be to get rid of it because I think I heard from my bro that you all believe that they are junk and basically do nothing. Just wanted to confirm my suspicion.
A little reading on the topic if you're interested.
Another question that I don't think is a big deal, but I was just wondering on is on fuses. Does is matter if a fuse is bigger than it needs to be? The amp that I purchased draws 80amps max current according to the manual, which is on Arc Audio's site, and has 90amps worth of fuses on it. Is it ok to use a 100amp fuse in this situation or does it ever become overkill? I most likely will have more questions in the future but I will ask them later. haha This should be enough for now. Let me know!
You never want to overfuse an amps fuse rating. Match it with a 90 amp fuse.
Basically all I have left to get now is some Comps and an Enclosure. Let me know what you think I should do about these. I don't really know what comps I get, but I am definately not partial to used. Everything I got so far is used. Only thing thing I know on the comps is that mounting depth can be ~2.8" probably upwards to 3" not completely sure. By the way I have a 2002 Celica GTS. I will definately have these on some 3/4" baffles though. The enclosure I am not really sure on and I am open to suggestions all the way as well. I was thinking about just getting a normal sealed box.
What would be the most you are comfortable with spending?
Oh sorry about the misunderstanding Robert, I was not aware. Sounds pretty hectic to me, so sorry if I acted wrongly. What kind of shop are you opening? I will sell my cap then for what I can and earn my way towards a Odyssey PC1200MJT. It looked like the right size for me when I just glanced through them.
On the fuses, I got a 100amp fuse and it needs a 90amp. Is this really going to affet me that much since I don't think 90amp mini ANL fuses are sold anywhere? Will I be all right with that setup?
For components I am looking in the less than or equal to $200 range. Used will probably work better for me since the cheaper I can get the better, as long as they are quality and considered good sounding by many. I will most likely mount these in stock locations with the tweets possibly in the A pillars if I can. I need help on how to do that correctly as well if I do.
If I am going to make separate baffles and and amp rack, should I just do those myself and save money since they aren't as important that they are perfect. Or should I just have Marv do it all? I was thinking have him do just a normal single 12" sealed box.
Also here is a few other questions I need answered about my bros system in picture form. haha
Oh sorry about the misunderstanding Robert, I was not aware. Sounds pretty hectic to me, so sorry if I acted wrongly. What kind of shop are you opening? I will sell my cap then for what I can and earn my way towards a Odyssey PC1200MJT. It looked like the right size for me when I just glanced through them.
On the fuses, I got a 100amp fuse and it needs a 90amp. Is this really going to affet me that much since I don't think 90amp mini ANL fuses are sold anywhere? Will I be all right with that setup?
For components I am looking in the less than or equal to $200 range. Used will probably work better for me since the cheaper I can get the better, as long as they are quality and considered good sounding by many. I will most likely mount these in stock locations with the tweets possibly in the A pillars if I can. I need help on how to do that correctly as well if I do.
If I am going to make separate baffles and and amp rack, should I just do those myself and save money since they aren't as important that they are perfect. Or should I just have Marv do it all? I was thinking have him do just a normal single 12" sealed box.
Also here is a few other questions I need answered about my bros system in picture form. haha
I'll see if I can help a little since cam is still a bit busy (he's opening a tire/wheel shop and hasn't called me in a while either ).
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On the fuses, I got a 100amp fuse and it needs a 90amp. Is this really going to affet me that much since I don't think 90amp mini ANL fuses are sold anywhere? Will I be all right with that setup?
Which fuse are you referring to? The one within 12" of the battery is to protect the wire from the battery to the distribution block and needs to be sized accordingly. If your amp already has a fuse, you don't HAVE to use a fused distribution block but if you do, that fuse will protect the wire from there to the amp (again sized accordingly). If the amp doesn't have a fuse you need an external one close to the amp sized to the draw of the amp (smaller is cool, larger is not cool)
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For components I am looking in the less than or equal to $200 range. Used will probably work better for me since the cheaper I can get the better, as long as they are quality and considered good sounding by many. I will most likely mount these in stock locations with the tweets possibly in the A pillars if I can. I need help on how to do that correctly as well if I do.
I always suggest listening for yourself when you can however I know that is sometimes not possible. Installation/proper tuning of speakers plays a HUGE role in how they will sound. That being said, in that price range (on eBay) I think the JL XR series are hard to beat for all around good detailed SQ. Just my opinion and your results may vary but I'm sure others have been happy with the many different choices out there
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If I am going to make separate baffles and and amp rack, should I just do those myself and save money since they aren't as important that they are perfect. Or should I just have Marv do it all? I was thinking have him do just a normal single 12" sealed box.
That depends on your skill level and how you want it to look. I'm always willing to help you do it yourself so give me a call if you'd like (I can't help by email since I don't type well enough and my email is always on overload )
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Also here is a few other questions I need answered about my bros system in picture form. haha
Need a little more info on this one. What impedance are the coils on each sub? What is the rms rating per sub? What is the rms rating of the amp and at what impedance?
Well I have done a few things since these posts. I now have purchased a set of Diamond Audio D661s component speakers. So basically all I have left to figure out is what I am doing about the brackets, amp mount, and box. So here are some main questions. I have everything else pretty much resolved.
1. Marv would you be interested in making me a sealed box for my 12" Image Dynamics subwoofer? It is a dual four ohm version 3 or the full name for it is ID12D4 v3. How much do you think this would cost? Also I know you don't carpet things but do you have any carpet that I can put on myself because I will need some for the box and amp rack if you have a way of getting it cheap. My last question pertaining to this is do you have any suggestions on making an amp rack that prevents its theft. Like the use of harware or design to make it hard to steal the amp.
2. My other questions deal with the pic above. I just have a few things I want to know. To clear things up the amp is a 2 channel MTX 942 brided to 2 10" dual 4 ohm subs. The power I am putting to them is not a concern. I just wanted to make sure that they are wired correctly, but I am not really worried because I think everything is right with those. The main question I want answered is concerning the power wire going to the amps.The wire is fused by the batt like normal and everything, I was just wondering if splitting the wire into different gauge wires to the different amps was the correct way to do things.
I think I am going to leave the grounds as is since I would have to run a wire all the way across the trunk to make both amps grounded in the same location. Grounds should probably never be that long. haha That should be everything, and if you don't see this soon Marv I will just give you a call about that box and maybe try and ask you some questions as well. haha Thanks
Well I'm a little under the weather again today so I'm on the computer a bit and can answer some questions
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Originally Posted by rekd0514
Well I have done a few things since these posts. I now have purchased a set of Diamond Audio D661s component speakers. So basically all I have left to figure out is what I am doing about the brackets, amp mount, and box. So here are some main questions. I have everything else pretty much resolved.
1. Marv would you be interested in making me a sealed box for my 12" Image Dynamics subwoofer? It is a dual four ohm version 3 or the full name for it is ID12D4 v3. How much do you think this would cost? Also I know you don't carpet things but do you have any carpet that I can put on myself because I will need some for the box and amp rack if you have a way of getting it cheap. My last question pertaining to this is do you have any suggestions on making an amp rack that prevents its theft. Like the use of harware or design to make it hard to steal the amp.
I can do that for you as long as you are not in a big rush (been ill for a while and am just now catching up). I attached a couple of pictures below of my most popular enclosure/amp rack design. The enclosure is angled to the seatback and there is a "cavity" on the rear allowing room for amps, crossovers, distribution blocks etc (the top is left open for cooling). Due to so many requests I do have carpeting available again but it does add to the cost. At the least I can supply carpeting for you to do it yourself. If something like this interests you please give me a call or email.
When mounting amps I like to use t-nuts and security screws. The problem with some amps is the fact that they have removeable mounting "feet" which won't be very secure even with t-nuts (I've seen where the amp was just ripped off the board and the feet were left there! Another thing, I always mount the enclosure and/or amp rack to the vehicle by using bolts and nuts to keep the entire thing from being easily lifted out. Be VERY careful when drilling through your car as to not drill into the fuel tank, fuel lines, brake hoses, wiring etc!
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2. My other questions deal with the pic above. I just have a few things I want to know. To clear things up the amp is a 2 channel MTX 942 brided to 2 10" dual 4 ohm subs. The power I am putting to them is not a concern. I just wanted to make sure that they are wired correctly, but I am not really worried because I think everything is right with those. The main question I want answered is concerning the power wire going to the amps.The wire is fused by the batt like normal and everything, I was just wondering if splitting the wire into different gauge wires to the different amps was the correct way to do things.
It does appear they are wired correctly based on your info and the drawing however you want to be concerned with the power each sub is getting so as not to blow them up! There are different ways to wire the same set-up and get different amounts of power output. Also, splitting the wire through a distribution block is the correct way to power 2 (or more) amps through one input wire. The gauge of wire from the distribution block to the amps is dependant upon the length of wire and draw of the amp. How you have it shown looks fine but the 1 gauge to the sub amp is not absolutely necessary.
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I think I am going to leave the grounds as is since I would have to run a wire all the way across the trunk to make both amps grounded in the same location. Grounds should probably never be that long. haha That should be everything, and if you don't see this soon Marv I will just give you a call about that box and maybe try and ask you some questions as well. haha Thanks
There is no reason to worry about the grounds being seperated or the length of the wire as long as its the correct gauge (I have all three of my amps grounded in different places for convenience). Also, it is a myth that the ground wire needs to be super short. Think about it this way, the power wire comes all the way from the battery and you need power/ground to be connected to complete the circuit right? The frame/chassis is just a big "ground plane" since the battery is grounded to it right? As long as the ground wire has the same capacity as the power wire (at minimum the same gauge/length) you can run the ground all the way back to the battery if you want to (that's how we do it in boats all the time since it's kinda hard to ground on fiberglass/wood )
Thanks for helping me out, I really appreciate it! That really helps to sum things up. I'm not really in a rush for this final thing. I can wait to put my sub in. I can live off of only components for awhile. haha
The box looks good in design and everything, only problem is that I have this tray in between my seats in the way. I don't really know what I want to do for my box setup, here are some pictures of what I have to work with.
If you could fit a box for my sub without the tray in on one half and make a amp rack on the other side that could also fit my comp's crossovers that would be awesome! I could probably give you some approximate angles of the sides and seats with a protractor or something if you need them. The dimensions of the amp are 16"x8"x3.35" and the crossovers are approximately 5"x5.5". If not I can always find another spot for the crossovers. I would also definately want it carpeted in a color most similar to stock color and it would also be great if you could include some t nuts and security screws so I can bolt all these things down. I assume I could bolt it right down to that horizontal bar if I end up removing the tray. Any idea what a price on something like this would be?
I could also do something more simple like this, except mount the amp on its own mount instead of on the seat. I don't really want to cut holes in the back of th seat with screws. I was thinking something like this maybe. Let me know what you think on the whole subject and some prices for both ways.
It looks a little tricky but I'm sure we can put together a design . Please email all the info and/or give me a call at 1-831-383-0308 and we'll work it out.
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I got questions for you guys!
Can you fit a dome? Maybe in kicks, or custom A Pillar pods...
).
Another thing, I always mount the enclosure and/or amp rack to the vehicle by using bolts and nuts to keep the entire thing from being easily lifted out. Be VERY careful when drilling through your car as to not drill into the fuel tank, fuel lines, brake hoses, wiring etc!
. Please email all the info and/or give me a call at 1-831-383-0308 and we'll work it out.
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