Originally posted by mach_y On the gen 5's, the trunk is opened by a tension bar system. If you look where they come down the back sides of the trunk, they go into holes. You can move them to a lower or higher hole for more or less "pop" when it releases.
Hmmn... sounds interesting... I wonder if the gen4 has this? I'll have to take a look sometime...
Which isnt legal where I am ;P
Naah, to have a camera there, means an extra hole for rust to start its dirty deeds. I'd rather just shave it for the clean look ;P
Not because it's really that useful but more so just because it's cool. And you could also watch movies while driving. Just another dangerous and semi-illegal fun idea. Of course, if you got pulled over you should make sure to switch back to the camera.
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1995 Silverleaf Metallic Camry LE Automatic beater
Camry9294:
On your solenoid's wire, did you loop it around a part of the latch and have it come back? (that's what the pictures look like) Or did you piggyback onto the stock wire?
mach_y:
How did you remove the pin going through the trunklid arm? It looks sort of like a rivet? (Don't have my Haynes w/ me but that thing is so vague it wouldn't say anyways)
Originally posted by woshiagni Couple of questions:
Camry9294:
On your solenoid's wire, did you loop it around a part of the latch and have it come back? (that's what the pictures look like) Or did you piggyback onto the stock wire?
mach_y:
How did you remove the pin going through the trunklid arm? It looks sort of like a rivet? (Don't have my Haynes w/ me but that thing is so vague it wouldn't say anyways)
Thanks in advance guys.
I actually had to go outside to look @ it!!! If you notice on your lid, there is a rod that comes from the key hole area. It makes a 90 degree bend around the latch. I looped the noid cable around it putting a nylon zip tie over & under it(it slipped once) because you have to leave it somewhat loose. I guess which ever way is more convenient for you. Notice the capacitor(I think) and the short ground wire. Use a relay & fuse combo of appropiate size under dash for the long run to the back. Shoot more questions if needed.
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06 Sienna LE AWD Pkg. # 2
98 Camry LE 5SFE
Light travels faster than sound, that's why some people seem bright until you hear them speak
I actually had to go outside to look @ it!!! If you notice on your lid, there is a rod that comes from the key hole area. It makes a 90 degree bend around the latch. I looped the noid cable around it putting a nylon zip tie over & under it(it slipped once) because you have to leave it somewhat loose. I guess which ever way is more convenient for you. Notice the capacitor(I think) and the short ground wire. Use a relay & fuse combo of appropiate size under dash for the long run to the back. Shoot more questions if needed.
Yeah I had some trouble connecting it to the latch rod because if the solenoid's wire is too tight, I can't turn the key left to disable the latch inside the cabin. Doesn't help that I broke the plastic clip holding the rod to the latch mechanism either... I'm not a huge fan of plastic parts.
I think i'll probably need to try a few different places out since the solenoid only jerks it like a half an inch. I don't think I can use your zip tie method because there'll be too much slack, but I'll give it a shot - it's a good idea.
Originally posted by mach_y I did one in my 2002 camry, wired it to my auxilliary on my alarm too. Its great when walking up to the car and having the trunk open for you On the gen 5's, the trunk is opened by a tension bar system. If you look where they come down the back sides of the trunk, they go into holes. You can move them to a lower or higher hole for more or less "pop" when it releases. In my case, I installed an amp under my trunk lid, and needed more lift, so I used the highest notch. If you need even more, just drill another set of holes
Yeah, the main reason for this is if your Cam came with a spoiler, the factory would adjust the tension bar to "pop" stronger....
Yeah, the main reason for this is if your Cam came with a spoiler, the factory would adjust the tension bar to "pop" stronger....
Is this something that can be adjusted by the end-user? I looked closely at my hinges and they look like they're attached to the trunklid by a rivet...
Is this something that can be adjusted by the end-user? I looked closely at my hinges and they look like they're attached to the trunklid by a rivet...
It can be done by yourself, no tools necessary. Follow the torsion bar to the side of the trunk, it actually goes behind the carpet on the side...you'll have to pull it back. You will then see the three holes on the side, just raise it to the highest hole to get the most pop outta your trunk.
Yeah I had some trouble connecting it to the latch rod because if the solenoid's wire is too tight, I can't turn the key left to disable the latch inside the cabin. Doesn't help that I broke the plastic clip holding the rod to the latch mechanism either... I'm not a huge fan of plastic parts.
I think i'll probably need to try a few different places out since the solenoid only jerks it like a half an inch. I don't think I can use your zip tie method because there'll be too much slack, but I'll give it a shot - it's a good idea.
Thanks for the help. =)
In the metal bar that is stock coming from the key slot to the trunk release, I put the solenoid directly in line so the pull would be in the exaxt correct direction (it ended up like 18 inches away). I attached the wire from the solenoid to the trunk release by drilling a small hole in the metal tab that gets pulled on on the trunk release, and feeding the wire from the solenoid through that. Works like a champ. I can still use the stock manual release in the car, as well as the electic switch, or my alarm remote accessory button
I finally got it installed in a place where it would work consistently -- I think the gen4 might be a little hairier to work with since the license plate is on the trunklid so there's less space to play with around the latch. I ended up using a zip tie and a small metal clip to yank the latch release directly (inside the latch mechanism, the first release that touches the anchor on the trunk side) -- this way when the rod moves to lock/unlock the trunk, the solenoid wire isn't touched.
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On the gen 5's, the trunk is opened by a tension bar system. If you look where they come down the back sides of the trunk, they go into holes. You can move them to a lower or higher hole for more or less "pop" when it releases. In my case, I installed an amp under my trunk lid, and needed more lift, so I used the highest notch. If you need even more, just drill another set of holes 
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