Help Troubleshoot Basic Alarm Install

[Chris Corolla S]

Hey everyone!

I picked up a Crime Gaurd 533i keyless entry/security system from Crutchfield and decided to install it myself in my 2001 Corolla .
I purchased the Crutchfield harnesses for the ignition and doorlock interface to simplify the install.

What works:

The siren
The door lock/unlock
The door open trigger (domelight tie-in)
The "valet" button

What does NOT work

The status light (I know the light itself functions because I saw it light during some test runs before I had completed the install.
Now it won't come on at all to indicate armed status or otherwise)

The vibration sensor (I triple checked the conections and settings. I even opened the thing and pushed the contact over ahile the alarm was armed.
It never activated the alram and the indicator lights never illuminated)

The parking light flash function (I went through three tie-in locations (kick panel, fuse block, and rear harness by running board.
All were solid green wires showing 12v constant with the light switch on parking lights and headlights, and not tied to the dimmer circuit, none of them worked.

I could not locate a wire to trigger by trunk opening but I'm not that worried about it.

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Misc.
I haven't tested the starter interupt
The door lock harness had a red spade connector that I had no where to plug, but doorlocks seem to work ok.
I also installed a Kenwood KDC MP4032 headunit (#2) and the dimmer interface doesn't work (again)

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Let me know if you have any ideas on what I did wrong or otherwise.
I moved the ground wire to a really good location on the firewall cleaned of paint and primer, so that is good.

Thanks!

[[SMAN]]

The parking lights should be a green wire at the bottom of the fuse box. You should be able to tie into it right there, but double check the output status of that wire by running it thorugh your meter and make sure that it is infact putting out +12volts when you lock the car. Looking through the manual for your alarm, it comes with a dual zone impact sensor, there are adjustment screws on them, you must adjust the sensativity to make it work properly. The status LED should be flashing slowely if the system is armed, and on constaly if it's in valet mode. If it's not coming on, then meter the port and make sure it's puting out a voltage when it's armed. As for a trigger wire for the trunk, if you have a light in your trunk, just use that wire.

[Chris Corolla S]

Thanks for your reply SMAN, I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by [SMAN]

The parking lights should be a green wire at the bottom of the fuse box. You should be able to tie into it right there, but double check the output status of that wire by running it thorugh your meter and make sure that it is infact putting out +12volts when you lock the car.

According to the specs I was given, I have found the right wire. I think you are asking me to test the output of the alarm brain at the parking light trigger wire to see if it goes to +12v when the system is armed. That is a great Idea. If the brain isn't telling them to flash it won't matter where i tie in.

Originally Posted by [SMAN]

Looking through the manual for your alarm, it comes with a dual zone impact sensor, there are adjustment screws on them, you must adjust the sensativity to make it work properly.

Indeed. As I said I adjusted it to high heaven and it won't trigger even if I turn it all the way up and shake it in my hand.

Originally Posted by [SMAN]

The status LED should be flashing slowely if the system is armed, and on constaly if it's in valet mode. If it's not coming on, then meter the port and make sure it's puting out a voltage when it's armed. As for a trigger wire for the trunk, if you have a light in your trunk, just use that wire.

I'm pretty sure the light in my trunk has a mercury switch because the wire comming from it does not change voltage when it is opened/closed, so I can't use that.

Thanks for reminding me to check the brain output. I will check the output for the status light, impact sensor, and the parking light trigger and see if they are getting 12v when the system is armed.

[[SMAN]]

Originally Posted by Chris Corolla S

I'm pretty sure the light in my trunk has a mercury switch because the wire comming from it does not change voltage when it is opened/closed, so I can't use that.

My wire source (DEI's directechs) says to use the trunk light for your rear hatch trigger, perticularly the red/white wire. They also say if you had a factor alarm module, you can find this wire in the factory alarm brain just above the driver kick. Don't worry bout it being a mercury switch, all you need is the connection to know if it's open or not. I used to mount mercury switches in older cars that didn't have a hood pin switch so that i could tell if it was opened.

[Chris Corolla S]

I saw that the trunk light wire was red with a white stripe and I tapped into one that was comming under the driver's side running board from the back but the Multimeter showed nothing when the trunk opened/closed. I have no interest in running a wire to the back of the car. I have no factory alarm.

I haven't dug the controll module back out to test it but now after it sat for a while it won't really work. It tries to chirp the siren to disarm and its all beeeeep bip bip bip bip bip it just goes on and on. I wonder if a crappy car battery could cause this? My battery is the original (7 years old) and it starts the car OK but not as good as it used to. It seems to work worse after it sits for a while, then after I drive around it works better.

[[SMAN]]

Sounds like your battery could be dieing, 7 years is way longer than the lifespan of most car batteries (especialy lead-acid). The trunk alarm might be something to consider if you have anything valuable in there, it's not that hard to run the wire, but it's up to you if your time is worth the security value or not. It also sounds like your alarm might be dieing itself, especialy if it is not functioning the way it's supsoed to. Check the fuses that are inline with it and make sure they haven't corroded or anything.

[Chris Corolla S]

I changed the stupid inline fuses and it works perfectly.

I think the fuse partially blew somehow so it sort of worked. When the whole thing died I finally checked the fuses and the power fuse was blown. The parking light fuse looked OK but I changed it anyway, now it works good.

Thanks for the help SMAN. I learned a lot on this project

[[SMAN]]

no problem, sometimes its tough with this stuff.