Help! Remote Start Alarm Issues

[yoheidiho]

I recently had a Viper 560XV installed in my wife's 05 Camry LE. Since the install we have had issues. The alarm has acted up it has caused no start conditions. It has also caused the 5A ECU–ACC fuse to burn out.

A particular issue is the remote start starts the car but the but the engine will die with the key in the ignition in the on position upon application of the brakes. Combination meter, radio and clock display work fine while engine is running. Upon restarting with the key, no combination meter, radio or clock display (burnt fuse).

Anyone know why the circuits on the 5A ECU–ACC are operation during remote start warm-up? It seems to me that the circuits should be dead since the fuse is blown.

Had the system removed for a few day without any problems. Had it reinstalled and issues resurfaced again after six days.

Any help/insight is appreciated.

[gsman73]

that circut will work because when we install remote starts we normally tap our wires at the ignition harness which comes after the fuse, now what you need to find out is why your factory fuse is blowing when you put in the remotestart. the fuse will usually blow from 2 thing, to much current being drawn from that circuit or that curcuit is grounding out for some reason. i would make the installers fix this or give you back your money and find another shop.

[[SMAN]]

As for no start conditions, the car should have an imoblizer in it. This prevents the car from being hot wired. If the used the simple way of putting an extra key in there, that might need to be adjusted. Here is what i find odd. If you say you put your key in and turn it to run and hit the brake and the car turns off, that means there is something wrong with the wiring. By default, the system acts as though your turning the key through different positions, so if the key is in and turned 2 clicks, it should act jsut the same as the remote start. If you only turned it 1 click, then the engine will turn off cause it shouldn't normaly be running in that position. The imobolizer will kick in usualy 3 - 5 seconds after engine start, so if you car has been running for 5 minutes ok, then that's not it either. As for the fuse blowing, it soulds like a wire that was tapped that should have been. As far as i know there shouldn't be any ECU wires used except for maybe the tach signal. perhaps you need to have it removed and reinstalled at a different shop by a different installer.

[yoheidiho]

No immobilizer, its a four cylinder model. I agree its either a bad install or bad brain. Troubleshooting doesn't seem to be the dealers forte. DEI Customer Service or should I say dis-service always throws it back to the dealer.